Pan Gasket install
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Pan Gasket install

  1. #1
    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    Default Pan Gasket install

    I'm putting a new pan gasket on my MKIV BBC w/Milodon pan and using the one piece for the first time. I splooged the silicone gasket on the timing cover with the four piece kit on the last go 'round.

    On the one piece, no sealant at all on the rails and just a dab at the transition to the front cover and the radius at the rear on both the block and the pan?

    If I use RTV at the radius let it set for how long before installing the pan, then how long before full torque? Is there a different torque spec than OEM on the one piece?

    I will be vaccum and soap checking before reinstall this time too.
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

    Liberals just chose to ignore relevant information about the world they live in, and then call themselves sophisticated for having chosen to be more stupid than God made them.

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  3. #2
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    If the pan fits well with the rear main cap and timing cover, and the pan rails are flat, you shouldn't need anything more than just a tiny bit at the transitions you mentioned. Just check the fitment in these areas for any issues that may require a little more prior to final assy,

    And I'm not a fan of letting the silicone sit before assembling but............

  4. #3
    gn7
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    IF I use silicon at all, I only use it between the gasket the block. Never between the gasket and the block. And I just wait till it skins over. That way I can remove the pan without screwing up the gasket. A "little" grease in the corners between the gasket and the pan can be usefull to help the pan pull into the corners without dirupting the gasket.



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    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    IF I use silicon at all, I only use it between the gasket the block. Never between the gasket and the block
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    . And I just wait till it skins over. That way I can remove the pan without screwing up the gasket. A "little" grease in the corners between the gasket and the pan can be usefull to help the pan pull into the corners without dirupting the gasket.
    Hmmm, Got it!


    Thanks, I know what you meant.
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

    Liberals just chose to ignore relevant information about the world they live in, and then call themselves sophisticated for having chosen to be more stupid than God made them.

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    gn7
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    Good Because after re-reading it, I realize it was a little more than screwed up. I perfer not to have any silicone between the gasket and the PAN



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  8. #6
    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Good Because after re-reading it, I realize it was a little more than screwed up. I perfer not to have any silicone between the gasket and the PAN
    Which is right whre I'm blowing a chit load of air from the vacuum pressure test after the new gasket install.
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

    Liberals just chose to ignore relevant information about the world they live in, and then call themselves sophisticated for having chosen to be more stupid than God made them.

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    Senior Member Jake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 500BBC View Post
    I'm putting a new pan gasket on my MKIV BBC w/Milodon pan and using the one piece for the first time. I splooged the silicone gasket on the timing cover with the four piece kit on the last go 'round.

    On the one piece, no sealant at all on the rails and just a dab at the transition to the front cover and the radius at the rear on both the block and the pan?

    If I use RTV at the radius let it set for how long before installing the pan, then how long before full torque? Is there a different torque spec than OEM on the one piece?

    I will be vaccum and soap checking before reinstall this time too.


    My Milodon pans seal for shit, the only pans I have ever had leak. I hate pan leaks, I now glue both sides of the pan gasket with gascinch and silicone the rubber, install pan snug, let set for an hour and finish snuging down the bolts.

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    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake View Post
    My Milodon pans seal for shit, the only pans I have ever had leak. I hate pan leaks, I now glue both sides of the pan gasket with gascinch and silicone the rubber, install pan snug, let set for an hour and finish snuging down the bolts.
    Now there's a common denominator.

    I wanted to try GN's advice with my first time try on the one piece.
    I'm just glad there was the thread on the vacuum trick before I power tested it. I do enjoy laying underneath a fully assembled motor on an engine stand.
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

    Liberals just chose to ignore relevant information about the world they live in, and then call themselves sophisticated for having chosen to be more stupid than God made them.

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    [email protected] After You 362's Avatar
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    What was that trick? Everytime I rebuild i always have a small leak at the rear main seal on my dooley pan....
    You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.

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    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    Pressurize the block with a shop vac, a very clean shop vac, then spray a soap solution on the gasket areas and see if it blows a bubble.
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

    Liberals just chose to ignore relevant information about the world they live in, and then call themselves sophisticated for having chosen to be more stupid than God made them.

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    I think it looks cool when a guy uses a tube of silicone and smears it all around the outside of the pan/ gasket/ block joint then uses his finger to smooth it.
    I'd go with that.
    Wags

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    Senior Member 500BBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    I think it looks cool when a guy uses a tube of silicone and smears it all around the outside of the pan/ gasket/ block joint then uses his finger to smooth it.
    I'd go with that.
    Wags
    Then apply the vac?
    "Pot had helped, and booze; maybe a little blow when you could afford it. Not smack, though" President Barack Obama.

    Liberals just chose to ignore relevant information about the world they live in, and then call themselves sophisticated for having chosen to be more stupid than God made them.

  15. #13
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by After You 362 View Post
    What was that trick? Everytime I rebuild i always have a small leak at the rear main seal on my dooley pan....
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    I have never had great luck using a vaccum to find oil leaks. But turn it around and blow into the motor all you need is a little liquid soap and water mix (mostly soap, very little water) in a spray bottle, and you'll find right now. Just make sure the vaccum and hose are spotless.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sleeper CP View Post
    Rat bastard

    Good side:


    Not so good side:


    GN7, using the shop vac as a blower worked out great.

    I'll pull the pan tomorrow

    Sleeper CP
    see the whole thread here
    http://www.performanceboats.com//new...reply&p=846689



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  16. #14
    Senior Member Bruise Brothers Dad's Avatar
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    Those one piece pan gaskets are the hottest thing since sunburn. Removed one on my sons engine three times while dynoing. Still sealed up great and no leaks after a season of racing
    Need help finding this 1973 Sanger 18'6" bubble deck mahogany bottom and stringers I was living in Pomona when I sold her in 1979. Just wonder if she still exists

    Update Found my old Sanger 12/7/14 in Reno.

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