Cyl head valves
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Cyl head valves

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    Default Cyl head valves

    I would like to hear your experiance's with different brand valves. More specifically For marine drag race applications. Who's valve and material for intake and exhaust. Any inexpesive Ti valves out there? Thanks SJ

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by super junk View Post
    I would like to hear your experiance's with different brand valves. More specifically For marine drag race applications. Who's valve and material for intake and exhaust. Any inexpesive Ti valves out there? Thanks SJ
    Inexpensive and Ti don't go in the same sentence. I used to get used Ti valves from the "junk" box and cut them down, shorten them, re groove them and "make" a set, but only because I had the use of the machine shop and the valves were free. By the time I was done, I had enough "free" labor in them to pay for a set.
    I run and use REV stainless valves for most gen. purpose/severe duty/race application. So far I haven't had any issues or come back's and I get them for far less than Manleys, and they're comparable to their (Manley) Severe Duty. You really can't go wrong with Manley's if you want to pay the price. I've heard some talk lately of Ferrea having some QC issues, but only talk...no personal experience. Del West is top of the line Ti stuff, again, if you want to pay the price.
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    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Inexpensive and Ti don't go in the same sentence. I used to get used Ti valves from the "junk" box and cut them down, shorten them, re groove them and "make" a set, but only because I had the use of the machine shop and the valves were free. By the time I was done, I had enough "free" labor in them to pay for a set.
    I run and use REV stainless valves for most gen. purpose/severe duty/race application. So far I haven't had any issues or come back's and I get them for far less than Manleys, and they're comparable to their (Manley) Severe Duty. You really can't go wrong with Manley's if you want to pay the price. I've heard some talk lately of Ferrea having some QC issues, but only talk...no personal experience. Del West is top of the line Ti stuff, again, if you want to pay the price.
    x2

    though I do like the finish work on the Ferrea's a bit more than the REV's... but then again I haven't bought any REV's in the last couple of years.
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    thanks guys I have manley's now will check out the REV's. You aint chitting about the Ti $ SJ

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    ferrea super alloy exhaust valves are hard to beat for the price, take a shitload of heat too

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Del West for titanium.
    I am a big fan of Ferrea. I have not seen QC issues. Not saying there have been none, I just have never seen any.
    Ferrea used to beat Manley hands down on runout. I switched and never looked back.
    These are just preferences.
    Always check everything aftermarket you get. Ounce of prevention thing.
    Wags

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    Del West....never had any issues with them

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    Senior Member Jim W's Avatar
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    There is a thread somewhere on Yellowbullitt similar to this one.

    One thing that was said by a few people is that the Ferrea's don't tend to break the head of the valve off if there is piston to valve contact.

    The Ferrea's seemed to be the preferred valve.

    Jim
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    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim W View Post
    There is a thread somewhere on Yellowbullitt similar to this one.

    One thing that was said by a few people is that the Ferrea's don't tend to break the head of the valve off if there is piston to valve contact.

    The Ferrea's seemed to be the preferred valve.

    Jim
    Or a 5/16 nut from off the scoop hold down stud that lodges itself between the piston and valve about 3/4 the way down the track at firebird at 7600rpm....

    not that I speak from experience or anything...

    Was able to "smack" it back and have a local machine shop guy grind it for me... worked for the rest of the weekend. Wouldn't advise to do in non-emergency situation though.

    Have use Ferrea's for years and the finish work is where I noticed a difference... all the "little" things that you do to another brand to make them extra nice like backcut and radius face the Ferrea's come already done for the same price.
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    My cyl head guy is telling me to go ferrea, I just wanted to know what's the best way to go. Nothing special 509 bbc w/300-500 hit of n2o. 2.300 intake 1.900 exh. Thanks SJ

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    Quote Originally Posted by super junk View Post
    My cyl head guy is telling me to go ferrea, I just wanted to know what's the best way to go. Nothing special 509 bbc w/300-500 hit of n2o. 2.300 intake 1.900 exh. Thanks SJ

    i am using ferrea super alloys for my exhaust valves. i too have read where it seems most boosted guys like the ferreas quite a bit more than the manley inconel. I read somewhere (and am going off memory, so could be wrong) the super alloy ferreas are suppose to be 3-4x stronger when in extreme heat, compared to the manley. don't know if this helps, but i went with the ferreas, thats just me though.


    Andrew

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    Been running ferrea ex valves, since the original build on my 540. One of the other keys to success is make sure the guides are clearanced propperly. This was demonstrated by my builder, when dropping off my brand new assembled heads. the popped out the valves, one intake one ex. He grabed a go, no-go tool, for the guides, my guides were very tight, and required some work. If the clearance is too tight, it can grab the stem and dink a valve in a flash, starting a cascading engine failure.
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    No Sandbar To Far sanger rat's Avatar
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    Rev's in my heads. I had a retainer break, bent the valve but it didn't break the head off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by One More Year View Post
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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    Been running ferrea ex valves, since the original build on my 540. One of the other keys to success is make sure the guides are clearanced propperly. This was demonstrated by my builder, when dropping off my brand new assembled heads. the popped out the valves, one intake one ex. He grabed a go, no-go tool, for the guides, my guides were very tight, and required some work. If the clearance is too tight, it can grab the stem and dink a valve in a flash, starting a cascading engine failure.
    Very true, on the guide clearance. Tenths of a thousandth can make a difference...it's a real pet peeve of mine. Like bore clearances, marine builds require a little more clearance than automotive.
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