ACL coated bearings
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ACL coated bearings

  1. #1
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    Default ACL coated bearings

    Anyone heard of these. Engine is NA BBC 468, 12.5:1, 7500rpm race only hydro.

    Tim

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    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by River Rat 005 View Post
    Anyone heard of these. Engine is NA BBC 468, 12.5:1, 7500rpm race only hydro.

    Tim
    Yeah... company is out of Australia... I believe, and I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but they were originally Repco. Not a bad part... used their "p" series equivlent for quite a few years on stockers and haven't had any issues. Haven't used their race coated bearings as of yet though.
    Last edited by six-oh-nine; 01-16-2010 at 09:46 PM.
    The Bostick®

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    Quote Originally Posted by River Rat 005 View Post
    Anyone heard of these. Engine is NA BBC 468, 12.5:1, 7500rpm race only hydro.

    Tim


    Rule #1,...DONT run a Hard Bearing, on a hard Crank, if the crank is hard, keep to the softer bearings, ......

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    From what I remember (not much) Callies recommends ACL bearings to use with their stuff...They are High performance shells, but bonded with a Silicone and Moly coating and recommended for high RPM engines, probably to control the scuff and to form a secondary barrier, but I actually have no idea....

    The problem I see with your question is you don't know what shells you have as far as what base was used. (at least you didn't state you knew)...I think the sprint car guys still use them...been a while.
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
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    Ive ran them, no problems. I know alot of other people who do as well with good results.

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    Running them in Nelson's blown 509. My first time with them, but they came "highly recommended by a reliable asource"
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    Callies Coated Bearings
    Callies coated high performance engine bearings are specifically processed to protect high RPM engines. We begin with the same carefully monitored shell found in our standard bearings. After special preparation, a durable Molybdenum-Disulfide/Graphite lubricant is permanently bonded to the bearing’s load carrying surface. This protective layer is beneficial to your engine during periods of marginal lubrication and cold engine start up. Callies coated bearings are of greatest value within engines using wet sump oiling systems.
    Callies maintains a full inventory of coated ACL and Clevite bearings. All brands and sizes can be specially prepared and coated at your request. Callies also offers a full inventory of uncoated bearings as well.

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    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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  11. #9
    Hat
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post

    the site has some interesting information, but I wouldnt advise trying to run a High HP engine on 20W50, the viscosity simply isnt there to handle the bearing loads, and an Engines clearances determine the weight of Oil it has to Operate on, and nearly ALL the guys I knew Racing, built oil pressure cranking, then hit the mag and let the engine fire.

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hat View Post
    the site has some interesting information, but I wouldnt advise trying to run a High HP engine on 20W50, the viscosity simply isnt there to handle the bearing loads, and an Engines clearances determine the weight of Oil it has to Operate on, and nearly ALL the guys I knew Racing, built oil pressure cranking, then hit the mag and let the engine fire.
    We used an accumulator tank...Same thing basically...The problem with 20w-50, or any other multivis oil with a large differential is the polymers to make the different weights, more polymers means less oil, less oil can and sometimes does mean less lubrication factor (lubricity), keeping the weights close = less polymers.

    Don't know where the multi vis discussion comes in, but there you go.

    If you are turning 7500 RPM, I wouldn't recommend a very heavy or a multi anyway...Maybe just me, but run it tight and light...
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT Jets View Post
    We used an accumulator tank...Same thing basically...The problem with 20w-50, or any other multivis oil with a large differential is the polymers to make the different weights, more polymers means less oil, less oil can and sometimes does mean less lubrication factor (lubricity), keeping the weights close = less polymers.

    Don't know where the multi vis discussion comes in, but there you go.

    If you are turning 7500 RPM, I wouldn't recommend a very heavy or a multi anyway...Maybe just me, but run it tight and light...
    Run 5-30 in an 800hp NA BB Chev...been four years. Never been apart, never been hurt. I'd never try that in a blown app, though. Application is the key.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT Jets View Post
    We used an accumulator tank...Same thing basically...The problem with 20w-50, or any other multivis oil with a large differential is the polymers to make the different weights, more polymers means less oil, less oil can and sometimes does mean less lubrication factor (lubricity), keeping the weights close = less polymers.

    Don't know where the multi vis discussion comes in, but there you go.

    If you are turning 7500 RPM, I wouldn't recommend a very heavy or a multi anyway...Maybe just me, but run it tight and light...

    a 20W50 Oil means it wont ever get less viscosity than a 20, nor more than a 50....many think it's just the opposite, but it isnt, and 20W50 in an engine with .0035.0045 mains and rod clearances, you DONT want to hear with mufflers, they rattle like shit. and 20W50 in an engine with Aluminum rods is asking asking for it, the oils running away from the parts faster than it's coming in. with .030-.050 side clearance, the oil isnt hanging out on the journal long.

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelcomp View Post
    Run 5-30 in an 800hp NA BB Chev...been four years. Never been apart, never been hurt. I'd never try that in a blown app, though. Application is the key.

    Just curious.....Why?

    There is no way, at 800 HP it could ever take advantage of the 5W, how cold can the oil get? Unless you use the boat in a frigid river, which we sometimes do, the oil gets a viscosity drop if it will be that cold for that long....

    In our marathon days, guys would always say "run the 20W-50 dude!" but could never back up why...We had .0042 rod and main clearances and ran stright 30 HP synthetic...This was before the zinc deal, but this oil still has the added zinc (never had the scratch for a roller cam)...

    My oil cooler runs off of the outlet water (measures about 120*F on average) and the oil gets to temp almost stupid fast (less than two minutes at a fast idle), so never saw the need...

    from what I have read about a lot of oils (I sell Amsoil), the wider the differential, the more polymers, a differential of 20 If memory serves was like the cut off for added polymers...Depends on the manufacturer though, your specific oil may have none, which would be desired...

    I only run multi vis oil in the daily drivers and stuff that takes forever and a day to warm up (my motorhome would be a perfect example)..
    Last edited by GT Jets; 01-17-2010 at 12:29 AM. Reason: Fat fingered the keyboard
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hat View Post
    a 20W50 Oil means it wont ever get less viscosity than a 20, nor more than a 50....many think it's just the opposite, but it isnt, and 20W50 in an engine with .0035.0045 mains and rod clearances, you DONT want to hear with mufflers, they rattle like shit. and 20W50 in an engine with Aluminum rods is asking asking for it, the oils running away from the parts faster than it's coming in. with .030-.050 side clearance, the oil isnt hanging out on the journal long.

    You need to help me out here, what do you mean by "many people think the opposite"? Opposite of what?

    What else could it mean?

    I run Amsoils 0W-30 in my wifes CRV, the thing is a friggen kid taxi and I don't think it has warmed up more than four times in its 60,000 miles

    After a 7500 mile oil change, you could put it in another car it's so clean....

    The last Honda we had had 345,000 miles on it, Amsoil from day uno....

    I am not an advocate of multi vis in a boat with controlled oil temp, seems unnecessary, that's all....
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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