home made belt drive fuel pump?
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home made belt drive fuel pump?

  1. #1
    Bouncing off rocks TryMe's Avatar
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    Default home made belt drive fuel pump?

    i converted from a sbc to a ls1 6.0, and along with it I lost my mechanical fuel pump. I have a barry grant electrical pump installed now, but because my fuel tank is located in the bilge with no where else to put it (aluminum sprint boat), i have nothing but problems with the electric pump.

    if it gulps any air when the tank gets low, the only way i can get it to prime is to run the pump and crack open the outlet side of the pump, which inevitably sprays fuel inside the boat, only a foot or 2 away from my hot engine. i never had an issue with mechanical pumps and have owned this boat for 10 years w/ at least 5 different engine combinations.

    on to the real question, i have an idea to fabricate a belt driven "box" with a lopped off camshaft from a sbc and run my old mechanical pump off the fuel pump eccentric. anybody ever done something similar to this? i have spent far too much money on this project already, and have more fabrication and machining experience than money at this point.

    i have seen mercruiser type water pumps that had a mechanical pump drive on them, but they seem to go for over $300. any thoughts or ideas on this?

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  3. #2
    cfm
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    Return style fuel system or deadheaded ?
    Do you have a fuel/water seperator before the pump ? OR regular inline filter ?
    How low - compared to tank bottom - is the pump ?

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    Senior Member ap67et10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TryMe View Post
    i converted from a sbc to a ls1 6.0, and along with it I lost my mechanical fuel pump. I have a barry grant electrical pump installed now, but because my fuel tank is located in the bilge with no where else to put it (aluminum sprint boat), i have nothing but problems with the electric pump.

    if it gulps any air when the tank gets low, the only way i can get it to prime is to run the pump and crack open the outlet side of the pump, which inevitably sprays fuel inside the boat, only a foot or 2 away from my hot engine. i never had an issue with mechanical pumps and have owned this boat for 10 years w/ at least 5 different engine combinations.

    on to the real question, i have an idea to fabricate a belt driven "box" with a lopped off camshaft from a sbc and run my old mechanical pump off the fuel pump eccentric. anybody ever done something similar to this? i have spent far too much money on this project already, and have more fabrication and machining experience than money at this point.

    i have seen mercruiser type water pumps that had a mechanical pump drive on them, but they seem to go for over $300. any thoughts or ideas on this?

    run a small .5-1.5 gal reservoir tank. use and electric pump to transfer from main tank to reservoir tank, and gravity feed to a main electric pump. your return from the reg goes to the res. tank and the res tank also has a hole at the top to drain excess back to the main tank...works well.

    here is a picture of my reservoir tank to get an idea of what im talking about (if i'm not completely clear on explaining). seems like an easier solution to me, but there are many ways to do it i suspect. and i'm sure you could get the setup you are talking about to work, just seems like a bit of work

    Last edited by ap67et10; 07-20-2010 at 08:51 AM.

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  6. #4
    Bouncing off rocks TryMe's Avatar
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    the pump is about 8" higher than the bottom of the tank. only way to mount any lower would be to mount it in the bilge under the engine. 1/2" pickup tube in tank to -10 hose approx 12" long. i have a barry grant filter on the suction side of the pump (the one bg calls for) i have a water seperator on the discharge side of the pump with a dead head regulator between the water separator and carb


    i had thought about that as well, my only concern was that i would have 2 fuel pumps to worry about plus possible water dick problems for lack of siphon tube. whatever i do, i want to make it as reliable as possible. nothing i hate more than getting towed in or spending my day turning wrenches when i should be drinking beer on the water

    would a bypass regulator make an appreciable difference as far as priming goes?
    Last edited by TryMe; 07-20-2010 at 08:56 AM.

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    My brother picked up a couple of those Mercruiser deals you meantioned on Ebay. He is cheap so I am sure he didn't pay $300 either.

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    [QUOTE=TryMe;1164675]the pump is about 8" higher than the bottom of the tank. only way to mount any lower would be to mount it in the bilge under the engine. 1/2" pickup tube in tank to -10 hose approx 12" long. i have a barry grant filter on the suction side of the pump (the one bg calls for) i have a water seperator on the discharge side of the pump with a dead head regulator between the water separator and carb


    i had thought about that as well, my only concern was that i would have 2 fuel pumps to worry about plus possible water dick problems for lack of siphon tube. whatever i do, i want to make it as reliable as possible. nothing i hate more than getting towed in or spending my day turning wrenches when i should be drinking beer on the water

    would a bypass regulator make an appreciable difference as far as priming goes?[/
    QUOTE]

    yessss! get a 13202 aeromotive regulator and it'll never air lock again electric pumps love bypass regulators, it allows the pull side of the pump to free up alot and the pump will run cooler as well. ditch the deadhead regulator btw, its almost impoosible to find a belt drive deal for a ls motor, i tried to get something for my turbo blow thru 5.3 and it was all piece together from different supplier type of deal, would've been real expensive and alot of fab work

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

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    cfm
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    Quote Originally Posted by TryMe View Post
    would a bypass regulator make an appreciable difference as far as priming goes?
    Yes.

    It allows constant full flow from your pump. A deadhead reg stops flow when it closes down. If nothings going out, nothing is going in.

    Another trick for when the pump has to be mounted higher than the bottom of the tank, even when using a return regulator, is to run your plumbing to the pump like a water trap, with the pump being a the low side. This way, this section of line will hold some fuel when system is shut off. Pump being the lowest in this trap will keep the pump in this fuel.

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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ap67et10 View Post
    run a small .5-1.5 gal reservoir tank. use and electric pump to transfer from main tank to reservoir tank, and gravity feed to a main electric pump. your return from the reg goes to the res. tank and the res tank also has a hole at the top to drain excess back to the main tank...works well.

    here is a picture of my reservoir tank to get an idea of what im talking about (if i'm not completely clear on explaining). seems like an easier solution to me, but there are many ways to do it i suspect. and i'm sure you could get the setup you are talking about to work, just seems like a bit of work

    That would have to have a vent on top of it and a holley bowl attached to the side to keep the small pump from over filling it to work correctly, if not its only going to be as good as what the small pump can flow.
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=TryMe;1164675]the pump is about 8" higher than the bottom of the tank. only way to mount any lower would be to mount it in the bilge under the engine. 1/2" pickup tube in tank to -10 hose approx 12" long. i have a barry grant filter on the suction side of the pump (the one bg calls for) i have a water seperator on the discharge side of the pump with a dead head regulator between the water separator and carb


    i had thought about that as well, my only concern was that i would have 2 fuel pumps to worry about plus possible water dick problems for lack of siphon tube. whatever i do, i want to make it as reliable as possible. nothing i hate more than getting towed in or spending my day turning wrenches when i should be drinking beer on the water

    would a bypass regulator make an appreciable difference as far as priming goes?[/QUOTE]

    No, as soon as the electric pump gets some air it looses pressure , what does the return then do? It shuts off because its asking for more pressure. So it will stay air locked till you bleed it right in front of the pump, just as you've been doing. you've got the electric fuel pump blues
    Think I'll right a song about this,lol.
    Last edited by Hass828; 07-20-2010 at 02:50 PM.
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    you need to find a way to get a mech. pump on there. Can you get a belt around the driveline and mount a belt driven pump virtually in the same place you have the electric?
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
    H8-2-W8
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    Senior Member ap67et10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    That would have to have a vent on top of it and a holley bowl attached to the side to keep the small pump from over filling it to work correctly, if not its only going to be as good as what the small pump can flow.
    the vent is in the main tank, which is attached to the reservoir tank. if the main pumps starts to empty the res tank, it draws air from the main tank as it would no longer be flowing fuel back to the main tank.

    despite the fact that you love carburetors, the last thing i would do is run part of one one on my setup...much less a whole one

  14. #12
    Senior Member ap67et10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    you need to find a way to get a mech. pump on there. Can you get a belt around the driveline and mount a belt driven pump virtually in the same place you have the electric?


    hmmm sounds like a great idea! have fun

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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ap67et10 View Post
    the vent is in the main tank, which is attached to the reservoir tank. if the main pumps starts to empty the res tank, it draws air from the main tank as it would no longer be flowing fuel back to the main tank.

    despite the fact that you love carburetors, the last thing i would do is run part of one one on my setup...much less a whole one
    So let me get this right, your running one large electric pump, one smaller electric pump, a reservoir tank, return lines to all of this, relays for all of this, a half a truck load of fuel lines, when one mechanical pump and one regulator would do it? Good luck
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
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  16. #14
    Senior Member ap67et10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    So let me get this right, your running one large electric pump, one smaller electric pump, a reservoir tank, return lines to all of this, relays for all of this, a half a truck load of fuel lines, when one mechanical pump and one regulator would do it? Good luck

    Luck??? why would i need luck? I set this system up specifically to ensure i have zero fuel delivery problems...its the exact reason i did NOT go with a mechanical pump. I wanted something i know can feed my engine without problems, no air, no pressure fluctuation...perfect, flawless fuel delivery.

    My friend...remember, you are the one that has had problem after problem with fuel delivery....not me.

    Andrew

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