Cam break in dual valve springs
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Cam break in dual valve springs

  1. #1
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    Default Cam break in dual valve springs

    I have edelbrock performer aluminum heads on my 460. I have to break in a new comp cam and lifters (flat tappet). I have never done this before and the idea of removing the inner valve spring on every valve for the break in period is intimidating. I understand why it would be better to remove the inner valve spring. I am trying to justify breaking it in without removing the inner valve srpings. Any experience or guidance would be appreciated!!!
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    don't over think it , Just do it ! leave the springs as they are ! It will be fine , or it won't ! that is just how it goes
    " my carbon footprint is gonna kick your green ass"


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    WOWO!!!!! THat has to be the most beautiful crank that Ive ever seen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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    right on!!! what i wanted to hear. wish me luck!

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    gn7
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    The worst that can happen is you'll have to tear the whole engine down to get out every last bit of hardened iron from the lifters and cam that is spread throught out you engine. And you can do that in about 10 times the amount of time it takes to remove and replace the valve springs. so for the price of a on head spring compressor, and 4 hrs of time, you could increase your chances of the cam not going flat by about double.



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    Quote Originally Posted by One More Year View Post
    right on!!! what i wanted to hear. wish me luck!
    use some good lube and coat your cam , lifters -

    I have been supersticious and done everything i was suppose to , only to have the cam fail ( i- e run light springs ) very rpm bla bla bla

    Ever watch a race "anything " being put together.. it gets broken in down the track .. Or was that Broke
    " my carbon footprint is gonna kick your green ass"


    Quote Originally Posted by 396_Ways_To_Spit View Post
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  8. #6
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    We don't break anything in. Everything is warmed and hammered. But we don't run flat tappet cams. Never seen anybody break in a flat tappet at the track. But you are correct. Wrong oil, oil level to low, rpm to low, wrong cam, wrong lifters, any one of these, and single spring or not, the cam is going down.



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    I have alot of oil into puting this thing back together, I have used a ton of the comp break in oil on the cam and lifters, I will put the comp additive in the oil for the break in. It sounds like this thing is kind of luck of the draw?? By not removing the springs it could go either way, but by removing the springs the chances of catastrophic failure reduces significantly huh? hmmmm? what to do next? guess its on me!

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    Reguardless of what you do, over fill the oil pan by at least one quart. If you mean oil on the cam, good luck. Even if it was Comp break in oil, or break in additive. That stuff is great as an additive to the oil, but the cam should have been coated with MOS2 paste. I am beginning to wonder if all these cam failure aren't partially because they no longer supply MOS2 grease with the cams.



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    Increase you odds GREATLY of a good break-in >>> REMOVE THE INNER SPRINGS!
    Heck I ran my old engine on the river for a hour or so without the inners >>> staying under 3000 RPM.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    by oil on the cam I didn't mean the break in oil. I am not sure what it is but it is the red gooey stuff from comp all over the cam and lifters. I am probably going to attempt to pull some springs tonight if I have the right fitting for my compressor to air up the cylinders. how much pressure? should only take 20 lbs or so huh? I will keep you all posted and thanks!!!

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    It doesn't take but a few pounds to hold the valve closed. Just bring the piston up to TDC, so that no matter what happens, the valve can't drop into the cylinder.



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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Reguardless of what you do, over fill the oil pan by at least one quart. If you mean oil on the cam, good luck. Even if it was Comp break in oil, or break in additive. That stuff is great as an additive to the oil, but the cam should have been coated with MOS2 paste. I am beginning to wonder if all these cam failure aren't partially because they no longer supply MOS2 grease with the cams.
    X2 on all this! I was really pissed back when Crower started putting that
    thin runny red stuff that drips off the cam in the box, instead of the good
    old moly paste! good thing I had a quart can of some mil spec moly lube
    on the shelf! GM EOS used to be a good additive, don't know about it now tho' just been biting the bullet and using Brad Penn break in oil on all the
    solid cam engines lately

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    Definatly remove the inner springs for break in. Just did a bbc with a Crower flat tappet cam, removed inner springs & used Comp cams additive. Turbo motor, found out the hard way about SRP pistons, Tore it down, Cam looks great,all lobes worn witin a few thouandths Good luck

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1SNYDER View Post
    Definatly remove the inner springs for break in. Just did a bbc with a Crower flat tappet cam, removed inner springs & used Comp cams additive. Turbo motor, found out the hard way about SRP pistons, Tore it down, Cam looks great,all lobes worn witin a few thouandths Good luck
    What did you learn about SRP pistons?



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