it sneezed?
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it sneezed?

  1. #1
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    Default it sneezed?

    At about 5500rpm I started pushing the gas more...not quite to the floor...but close. As the boost starts cranking and the rpms start rising I hear like a sneeze? Then the engine dies.

    I gave it a minute...turned it over a few times and drove it back. It seemed a little sluggish, and when I got it back on the trailer I noticed the line to the boost reference port had blown off at the intercooler.

    I have an arching plug wire I need to fix, but what do you think happened...run the bowls out of gas...the boost retarder took too much timing out? It caught a cold?

    any thoughts?

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  3. #2
    gn7
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    Guess that would depend on what the reference line is hooked to on the other end.

    If it is to the PV, then the PV would be open, suppling fuel. You shouldn't need a reference line to regulator with a draw thru so I guess we can rule that out. The if it has a timing retarder, they are at full advance with no vac, so it didn't pull the timing out.



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    Last edited by gn7; 08-15-2010 at 09:07 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible_buddhist View Post
    At about 5500rpm I started pushing the gas more...not quite to the floor...but close. As the boost starts cranking and the rpms start rising I hear like a sneeze? Then the engine dies.

    I gave it a minute...turned it over a few times and drove it back. It seemed a little sluggish, and when I got it back on the trailer I noticed the line to the boost reference port had blown off at the intercooler.

    I have an arching plug wire I need to fix, but what do you think happened...run the bowls out of gas...the boost retarder took too much timing out? It caught a cold?

    any thoughts?
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Guess that would depend on what the reference line is hooked to on the other end.

    If it is to the PV, then the PV would be open, suppling fuel. You shouldn't need a reference line to regulator with a draw thru so I guess we can rule that out. The if it has a timing retarder, they are at full advance with no vac, so it didn't pull the timing out.
    Sounds like you ran the bowls dry and lean poped. Thats what blew the ref. line off. Even on a draw through setup your moving more than twice the fuel through the carb than it was designed for so you need to take some measures to try to maintain some good fuel pressure while wfo.
    As for the draw through setup and pressure regulators, I always had a boost reference line with a small air pressure regulator inline so I could let the FPR see as much boost as I wanted it to .It doesnt need to go up 1 to 1, it just needs a little kick to help it maintain. I would adjust so it would maintain 7psi while wfo(checking from the opposite side of the needle&seat from were it was fed).But you will need another item inline that will let the FPR see boost and come back down to idle fuel pressure while not seeing any vacuum or the idle fuel pressure will drop to almost nothing . Real easy to make, if you need more info on putting one together just pm .



    Oh, and get that ign wire fixed, backfires are hell on these things and that can certainly cause one too.
    Last edited by Hass828; 08-16-2010 at 07:02 AM.
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    gn7
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    I agree, a boost referenced reg can be of some benefit on a draw thru system. It will allow you to run pressure higher than the needle can handle at an idle. But a good reg that can handle the flow should need it. Like Hass said, it doesn't need to track the boost, just raise the pressure a pound or so when in boost. The main thing is to make sure the fuel system is upto the job. A whimpy pump and regulator, along with small lines, specially from the tank to the pump, and tiny ass tank vents will destroy your motor in no time.



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    Like GN7 said, if your system is set up correctly you shouldn't really need to boost reference your regulator. I run an Aeromotive regulator that can be boost referenced, and I've run it both ways. Once I got my system dialed in, I didn't need to run it boost referenced any longer. If your dropping fuel pressure under boost, you have something that needs to be addressed. Also, check your float levels.

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    my guess was the running the bowls dry as well. My gauge where it is, it's tough to see where the fuel pressure is dropping or not.

    she was running really well though



    I have the Holley street/strip mechanical pump I think and a -6 line going to each bowl. I wonder if I need to upgrade the pump.

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    It's running out of fuel big time. Way past the point of lean burning anything.

    Way off on jetting or fuel delivery.
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    Yup...these things a killer fuel system, i've always run enderle 80a-1 pump with -12 line to it....custom log with enderle popet, you can run 5 psi and NEVER have a fuel issue (I do however run 8 psi) returns to the inlet line. Volume is way way more than you need on gas. when you can walk in and out of a 400 shot of NOS and the data logger shows zero change in fuel pressure you are pretty safe..lol
    Last edited by 1QuickCP; 08-17-2010 at 08:19 AM.

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible_buddhist View Post

    I have the Holley street/strip mechanical pump I think and a -6 line going to each bowl. I wonder if I need to upgrade the pump.
    This is the most misused term in the industry. Like saying 3/4 race cam. Not exactly a race pump, but better than a street pump? And then you threw a turbo at it.

    If its a 12-835 pump with 1/4 inlet and outlets, throw it away. Don't even give it to a friend. If its a 12-454-11, sell it or give it away. If its a 12-454-12you may be OK if you line fromthe tank to the pump is at least a -10. As for the outlet. You say you have 2 -6s going to the carb. But whats feeding ther 2 -6s. Hopefully its not a -6 tee. Before anybody here is going to be able to give you much help, they are going to need pics or drawings showing your entire fuel system.

    But if you continue to do this, you'll be on here asking for the name of better pistons.



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    Last edited by gn7; 08-17-2010 at 08:30 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    This is the most misused term in the industry. Like saying 3/4 race cam. Not exactly a race pump, but better than a street pump? And then you threw a turbo at it.

    If its a 12-835 pump with 1/4 inlet and outlets, throw it away. Don't even give it to a friend. If its a 12-454-11, sell it or give it away. If its a 12-454-12you may be OK if you line fromthe tank to the pump is at least a -10. As for the outlet. You say you have 2 -6s going to the carb. But whats feeding ther 2 -6s. Hopefully its not a -6 tee. Before anybody here is going to be able to give you much help, they are going to need pics or drawings showing your entire fuel system.

    But if you continue to do this, you'll be on here asking for the name of better pistons.
    I actually have the pump my uncle used to run on his twin turbo system before he went fuel injected so I am going to give that a go. Would rather not need better pistons

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    this is the pump I am running now:



    the carb plumbing:

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    I'll betcha a dolla that your running the bowls dry. If you had a fuel pressure guage that you could see while you were wfo you would see that your pressure is probably dropping down to 2-3psi maybe less.
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    I am guessing that is exactly what happened. I am going to throw a different fuel pump on it.

    Wondering if I should do some sort of warning buzzer, low pressure cut off or pressure gauge.

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    went and grabbed the spare fuel pump... 12-454-11

    ya, not switching over to that one!

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