Heres a question for you guru's
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Heres a question for you guru's

  1. #1
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Default Heres a question for you guru's

    When in the torque sequence do you torque the head bolts that go from under the intake on an aftermarket block ?
    Then next ? how the hell do you get a torque wrench on'em ? What do they torque to on a brodix alum. block ?
    Thanks Hass
    Last edited by Hass828; 08-24-2010 at 10:41 AM.
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    LP-25.com Infomaniac's Avatar
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    You get a crow's foot on it and recalculate the torque.

    Use the torque value for the fastener. Prolly ARP small diameter head bolt or stud with washer and small diameter nut. If so call them.

    T1 x L1
    --------- =T2
    L2

    T1 is the original torque
    L1 is the length of the torque wrench from the center of the handle to the square drive
    L2 is the torque wrench length with the crow's foot
    T2 is the new torque. It will be a little less.
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    Senior Member EdonShano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    You get a crow's foot on it and recalculate the torque.

    Use the torque value for the fastener. Prolly ARP small diameter head bolt or stud with washer and small diameter nut. If so call them.

    T1 x L1
    --------- =T2
    L2

    T1 is the original torque
    L1 is the length of the torque wrench from the center of the handle to the square drive
    L2 is the torque wrench length with the crow's foot
    T2 is the new torque. It will be a little less.
    36 to 40 lbs....
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    i'm back!! 1QuickCP's Avatar
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    i use 12 pt nuts and a small 3/8 drive torque wrench with a cut down socket....or a box end wrench if theres no way at all to get it...you would be amazed how close ya can get. clamp a stud in vise, slip a aluminium tube on it, washer,moly 12 pt nut..practice with that get a good feel for 65 ftlbs or whatever...I can get within 5 lbs every time, and within 2 most of the time... you can also just cut down the box wrench handle and give it all you got with 1 hand, measure torque, re cut..measure ect.. you can get the wrench to a length that all you can pull with one hand is 65 . Or like my friend with the KB hemi..just pulls it as hard as he can and could care less...car runs low 6's so I shut up....

  7. #5
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1QuickCP View Post
    i use 12 pt nuts and a small 3/8 drive torque wrench with a cut down socket....or a box end wrench if theres no way at all to get it...you would be amazed how close ya can get. clamp a stud in vise, slip a aluminium tube on it, washer,moly 12 pt nut..practice with that get a good feel for 65 ftlbs or whatever...I can get within 5 lbs every time, and within 2 most of the time... you can also just cut down the box wrench handle and give it all you got with 1 hand, measure torque, re cut..measure ect.. you can get the wrench to a length that all you can pull with one hand is 65 . Or like my friend with the KB hemi..just pulls it as hard as he can and could care less...car runs low 6's so I shut up....
    This is a Brodix aluminum block and Brodix heads , it has the black socket heads for an allen tool. My old engine had the same fasteners and i always just tightened the sh-t out of them and had no problems, just wondered how everyone else does it.
    My father said i could probably strip the SOB out with a 2" long allen tool
    I like to go as far as it will go +1/2 turn,lol.
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  8. #6
    gn7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    My father said i could probably strip the SOB out with a 2" long allen tool
    I like to go as far as it will go +1/2 turn,lol.
    Rookie. You tighten it till it strips or snaps. Then back it off a 1/2 turn.



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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Rookie. You tighten it till it strips or snaps. Then back it off a 1/2 turn.
    I'll write that down so as to remember it
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    Distinguished Member David 519's Avatar
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    Yea, I've wondered about that too... My vise grips don't have a torque read out
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    ....... David 519 is 100% correct........

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    I have a Mac crowsfoot box end deal that goes on the torque wrench. If the tool is 90 degrees to the wrench you do not need to compensate for it.

    Wags

  12. #10
    gn7
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    Even though it makes the wrench longer???
    Done alot of aircraft work have ya?



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    Resident Ford Nut Sleeper CP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Even though it makes the wrench longer???
    ?
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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Even though it makes the wrench longer???
    Done alot of aircraft work have ya?
    Uh, it does not make the wrench longer. It would make the wrench longer if the crows foot was straight out. It if is 90 deg. to the wrench the theoretical length is not changing.
    Duh.
    Wags

  15. #13
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    Uh, it does not make the wrench longer. It would make the wrench longer if the crows foot was straight out. It if is 90 deg. to the wrench the theoretical length is not changing.
    Duh.
    Wags
    Of course it is, wags. Think of it this way...if the crow's foot was 12" long, would that change the leverage?
    Unless what you're turning is at the center of that square drive on that torque wrench, the value will be different, and you should compensate.

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    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    Uh, it does not make the wrench longer. It would make the wrench longer if the crows foot was straight out. It if is 90 deg. to the wrench the theoretical length is not changing.
    Duh.
    Wags

    Correct. the effective lenght is the length between the end of the handle and center of the nut onto which the wrench is installed. At a 90° one way or another, the length doesn't change.

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