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ok got a problem here.

  1. #1
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    Default ok got a problem here.

    just got this boat from Maryland last week.


    first time out, running awesome for 30 mins cruising around. came up to our spot and cut off the boat. about 20 mins later, tried to crank it and wouldnt start back. battery got weak pretty fast trying to start it. took the extra deep cycle outta a friends ski nautique and put in the boat . a few seconds after cranking off that battery and she fired right up. swapped back in my battery while it was running so it could recharge. rode around for 5 mins and came back and cut it off. about an hour later we road out and hammered it down. the motor wouldnt turn past 4000 when i hit it and i let off the throttle and it cut off. turned around to check out the motor and a lot of water was in the floor(im guessing it was from the boat stopping so fast when it cut off), after getting it pumped out with the bilges, i noticed something seeping out of the front corner of the valve cover. looked like a milkshake, oil and water mixing. .

    there are two tubes that come off the valve covers that go to a catch can on the back of the motor with a breather. inside the catch can was about 10 ounces of clear water, no oil. tore off the valve covers and there was a lot of that really thick off white color milky film on the top inside of the valve covers. and water sitting in the top of the heads. tore off the intake and noticed that 6 of 8 intake valve guides were cracked. drained the oil and it was all milky also. all the spark plugs looked perfect so no water was going into the cylinders. pistons all look ok on the topside, faces of valves too. the copper headgaskets looked ok when i took the heads off. at this point i dont know how water got into the oil. havent messed with anything put 10 gallons of 112 in it and 6 gallons of 93 before i took it out. other than that all i did was check the oil. there was milky oil in the oil galley under the intake manifold and clean water sittin in the head under the rocker arms. so it looks as if water has gotten in from the topside somewhere but not sure how. any input here would be greatly appreciated. taking the heads to get checked out this week and valve guides replaced

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  3. #2
    Senior Member stallion176's Avatar
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    Look in at the dump hoses. dirt dobers love to get in them? Water valve up to high? etc etc

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    Quote Originally Posted by stallion176 View Post
    Look in at the dump hoses. dirt dobers love to get in them? Water valve up to high? etc etc
    when the motor was idling in the water the two outlets on the back of the transom were pushing water out fine out of two ports. one port however was a bit cooler than the other.

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  6. #4
    No Sandbar To Far sanger rat's Avatar
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    Ditch the copper headgaskets
    Quote Originally Posted by One More Year View Post
    The only blab's I will even be a part of is just when it is me they are talking about. Aaaah yes I can see a few good looking shiny tall deck motors on the beach, with barely enough fuel to get back to the launch saying, "Holy crap how fast you think that Daytona was going man? That's like the 20th time he's gone by today?"

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    what i found...

    -clean water in the catch can, one hose off the top of each valve cover... no oil, just water- about 10 ounces.
    -standing water, not milky sitting on the heads
    -did a compression test before taking anything apart and all the cylinders on the right side were 170-175. the left side was all 148-170.. seems odd left side was lower.
    -lots of cream colored buildup under the tops of the valve covers.
    -pistons looked normal
    -rockers and rods all looked good
    -spark plugs all looked normal.
    -6 of 8 intake valve guides all had a single vertical crack


    at this point, should i just get the heads checked out/valve guides fixed and change the head gaskets and throw it back together?
    Last edited by NSTIGATR; 10-10-2010 at 08:03 PM.

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    Which head gaskets should I use then and what guides should I look into. Heads are 990s.

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    Senior Member rogerroost's Avatar
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    wet headers?? stuck basset tee valve(if you have one). I had the same prob from a blown moroso crankcase evacuation valve (between headers & valve covers)

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    Default Copper??

    Quote Originally Posted by sanger rat View Post
    Ditch the copper headgaskets
    The copper gasket can be made to work, you just have to add a bead of silicone around all the water passages between the heads and block.... OH, and anneal the gasket before reusing.... Take a gas torch and make the flame rich enough to soot the gasket, then make the flame hot enough to burn the soot off..... Are the heads and/or the block O ringed??

    Quote Originally Posted by NSTIGATR View Post
    Which head gaskets should I use then and what guides should I look into. Heads are 990s.
    See above, but the 1017 Felpros work fine for me... AND again, add a little silicone around ALL the water passages... About 1/16th of an inch bead on the block, then the same on top of the gasket before setting the heads on.....Do the same thing around the head to intake water ports, front, and back, even though there isn't a passage in the back, seal around it anyway....AND, be sure to use thread sealer or silicone on the head bolts/studs... I use the ARP "sealer/lubricant".......BBC head bolts ARE live to water in the block, and they WILL leak if not sealed with something.....

    Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogerroost View Post
    wet headers?? stuck basset tee valve(if you have one). I had the same prob from a blown moroso crankcase evacuation valve (between headers & valve covers)
    yea me and the previous owner were thinking the same thing possibly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit View Post
    The copper gasket can be made to work, you just have to add a bead of silicone around all the water passages between the heads and block.... OH, and anneal the gasket before reusing.... Take a gas torch and make the flame rich enough to soot the gasket, then make the flame hot enough to burn the soot off..... Are the heads and/or the block O ringed??



    See above, but the 1017 Felpros work fine for me... AND again, add a little silicone around ALL the water passages... About 1/16th of an inch bead on the block, then the same on top of the gasket before setting the heads on.....Do the same thing around the head to intake water ports, front, and back, even though there isn't a passage in the back, seal around it anyway....AND, be sure to use thread sealer or silicone on the head bolts/studs... I use the ARP "sealer/lubricant".......BBC head bolts ARE live to water in the block, and they WILL leak if not sealed with something.....

    Ray
    seeing the groove on the block around the cylinders i guess they are o-ringed and the rings on the heads. so im new to this oring stuff, which head gaskets do i need to get. and as far as valve guides anything in particular?


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    Default Copper...

    You might be stuck with the copper gaskets. The o rings push the soft copper down into the grooves, (microscopically) ...AND the o rings MIGHT interfere with the "sealer rings" on the Felpro gaskets.... and make it seal less around the cylinders.... You need to do some "homework" and learn about O rings.....OR, mill them flush with the heads. If you try to just take them out, you will create leaks where the non round Felpro "chamber seal" doesn't cover the empty groove. Maybe someone here knows of a gasket maker/number that has a true "round" sealer ring built in...... And will work without the o rings.... Otherwise, use the copper, re annealed....(made soft again)..... And seal the water passages as mentioned before...

    Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

  13. #11
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    Default water leaks

    Check your heads. If the rocker studs are not sealed, you can get water from there as well.

    Head bolts need sealant.

    Copper gaskets need sealant around the water ports.

    If you have water in your headers during idle, the reversion of the cam will suck the water back into the cylinder, and push past the rings.

    Those are the areas you "normally" get water from. Any thing else could be a crack.

    Jerry

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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    He mentioned cracked valve guides, that can and will put water in the top end.
    But certainly also check the other things too after reassembly.
    Last edited by Hass828; 10-11-2010 at 07:13 AM.
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
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    Thanks for the help fellas. Gonna take the heads to get checked and new guides. Gonna try and get up with the engine builder as far as the headgaskets and thickness they used.

  16. #14
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    Get a pair of Flatout RCC copper gaskets...they will seal water 100% and are the best copper gasket out there right now...totally reuseable as well.
    If you can stand it and have the clearance you can mill the heads to get rid of the groove and use a regular gasket...Hopefully they only cut the groove .025 or so deep. Of course recheck v/p clearance ect.

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