Would this engine be a good base
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Would this engine be a good base

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    Senior Member Warlock1's Avatar
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    Default Would this engine be a good base

    I have a chance to get a 98 Vortec 454 for relatively cheap. Would this be a good base for a relatively mild build?

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    Default gen 6

    it should be a gen 6, which is good, but some parts will be gen 6 specific. the oil pan and timing cover are not the same as the older mark iv. also, you will not be able to use a mechanical fuel pump. if you are not planing on using those parts from a mark iv, that you already have, then no big deal. if it makes you feel better, i am getting ready to put a gen 6 on the dyno, that should be over 1000 hp on pump gas, and much higher on av gas. if you think you would rather go with a mark 4, i know someone that has a real nice 4 bolt ls6 short block, that could be freshened up real easy, and make a real nice engine. he would let it go at a great price too!!! its a virgin ls6.

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    Senior Member Warlock1's Avatar
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    All I want is 500hp, thats about all I can afford. Would the Vortec heads be ok for that with a basic clean up and good cam, and intake?

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    Those Vortecs can make some very good power.
    Chris Straub
    Straub Technologies

    3HP is an A$$ Whooping!!! JW

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    steelcomp was here
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    As above, answer: yes. Good platform for making plenty of power.
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    Senior Member Warlock1's Avatar
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    ok I got three call backs, and this is what they offered
    98 Vortec from Suburban 600.00 this one runs
    86 454 block number 14015445, heads 14081045 400.00 long block
    85 454 block number 361959, heads 336781 550.00 long block

    Again all I want is around 500hp. I plan on roller cam, single 4 barrel to keep costs down. I'll gasket match the heads and attempt an obnoxious001 block prep.

    Which is the best choice? I'll be removing my engine and selling it as a take out. 98 7.4 MPI so I will have to buy all accessories.

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    gn7
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    You'll be buying a hell of lot more if you buy either of the 80's MKIV motors. Your stuff should fit the Vortec.
    And the Vortec is guaranteed to have 4 bolt mains, the others aren't. The Vortec heads have a better combustion chamber over the MKIV as well. Buy the vortec.



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    the 98 will be a 4-bolt-they never made a gen 6 2 bolt
    I don't really like the late 80's mark 4 blocks, but for your power level they would be fine,
    if you want the mark 4 stuff, grab the '85 with the 781's
    personally, I would grab the 98 gen 6- being that it already has a hydraulic roller cam,
    and you will be money ahead...........JMO


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    Senior Member Warlock1's Avatar
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    Thats why I come here, I greatly appreciate you giving a rookie some advice.
    Assuming I get the Vortec, I would expect to find a cast crank,rods, and pistons, right? If there in good shape should I change them or just a good balance?
    Would an off the shelf cam get me where I need to be or should I invest in a Straub cam?
    What intake and carb would suffice?
    I'll get an MSD with limiter for the spark control.
    Last edited by Warlock1; 04-04-2011 at 09:54 PM.

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    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warlock1 View Post
    Thats why I come here, I greatly appreciate you giving a rookie some advice.
    Assuming I get the Vortec, I would expect to find a cast crank,rods, and pistons, right? If there in good shape should I change them or just a good balance?
    Would an off the shelf cam get me where I need to be or should I invest in a Straub cam?
    What intake and carb would suffice?
    I'll get an MSD with limiter for the spark control.
    If this is going in your Warlock, you'd sleep better at night with a forged rotating assembly, even if you found a GM crank. The rods are probably OK with a bolt upgrade and reconditioning, but by the time you pay for that, you can go with a Scat ProComp forged I beam for the budget build, or a forged H beam for over-kill. You definitely want a forged piston and I recommend either the KB Icon or the Mahle.
    There are probably shelf cams that will give you what you're looking for, but you'll be leaving power on the table. If you have a performance exhaust, you can prpobably take better advantage of a custom grind. If you have stock exhaust, you're going to have a hard time reaching 500hp any way you go.
    You said single four barrel? Are you ditching the MPI?
    As for the heads, I'd have them re-conditioned with a new set of quality stainless valves, a quality 4 or 5 angle valve job and a little bowl work to get the flow numbers up. "Port matching" is a waste of time. RPM Airgap and a 750-850 would work best in the rpm range you'll be operating.
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    Senior Member Warlock1's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for the info Steel, so if I have to replace the rods and the pistons and get a crank, then none of these engines are worth buying since I can't use what is there. I would also feel better with a forged bottom end because I am usually at wide open since I am so much slower than the other boats in my crew
    I was hoping one of these blocks would actually have forged crank and rods that I could just clean up and reuse. I was going to replace pistons anyhow.
    And yes I am ditching the MPI and going with a carb.
    I do have the stock exhaust, but I dont want to build it to the stock exhaust, because when the original engine sells I will pick up a set of performance headers.

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    Default Forged crank

    To bad your not in so cal. If you were I could hook you up with a nice gen 6 forged crank at a killer price. I have the one out of my engine when I stroked it. Or just have steel build your engine and I'll dump it at his house, he would love to have more parts laying around

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    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
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    Why not use what you have and take the money you were going to spend on all new parts and invest in what you have? Just asking. You said you were taking yours out and selling it. Whats wrong with it? Your not looking to build a killer mill anyways. Just curious.

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