Is my Cam specs to much duration to run my headers wet?
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Is my Cam specs to much duration to run my headers wet?

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    dry
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    Default Is my Cam specs to much duration to run my headers wet?

    I have a 468 fully rollered BB BBC 468 12.5-1 compession forged 50cc TRW pistons worked and flowed heads, stainless valves fully rollered, steel 4 bolt main, titanium retainers etc..... my cam specs are as follows and my questions is this cam specs going to allow me to run wet headers or should i run dry??
    Cam Specs: ISKY lobe centers 111, 290 duration,intake open 34 before tdc,close 76 after tdc,cam lift 320, valve lift 560-----Exhaust is open 76 before tdc, close 34 after tdc cam lift 320, valve lift 560..........

    Any information will be greatly apreciated the cam is already installed and trying to decide if wet headers are going to be a problem on my v-drive.
    Cole TR1 "On the Chip at 2500!"

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    jetboataholic HawaiianJet's Avatar
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    Resident Ford Nut Sleeper CP's Avatar
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    I'm guessing your dur at .050 is about 240-245 ?

    If so, it doesn't sound to big to me to run the wet headers.

    Sleeper CP

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    dry
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sleeper CP View Post
    I'm guessing your dur at .050 is about 240-245 ?

    If so, it doesn't sound to big to me to run the wet headers.

    Sleeper CP
    The duration at .050 is 250 according to custom grind card from isky. so is that still not a problem?
    Cole TR1 "On the Chip at 2500!"

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    Hondo Jet blown540's Avatar
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    I ran a 245 duration cam with TT exhaust, no problem. I am now going bigger. I was told by a tech at Lightning the key is to get the exhaust valve closed as soon as possible, like 10 degrees ATDC. So running the cam advanced is an option but if your just injecting water you don't need to touch the motor you can just control when you start to inject the water. I don't have that option

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    just a ski boat with bark Carnivalride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dry View Post
    The duration at .050 is 250 according to custom grind card from isky. so is that still not a problem?
    Are you running the check valve that comes with the headers? Or do you have a valve to shut the water off at idle? From my personal experience this cam "258/267 @ .050 on a 110ls" HAD too much overlap and I warped 8 manley exhaust valves right after I put it in. If it were mine I'd run it dry and not risk it. I did get away with a 236/246 @ .050 but I never tried anything in between those two cams.

    Loren

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    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    you can always buy a moroso electric valve like we do and shut the water off with a toggle switch any time you want.we have run lots bigger cams and never had a issue.you want very little steam coming out of the headers and flip the switch to dry out staring at around 2500 rpm.thats what we do been doing it for years,those check valves suck and yes you can have water reversion.hope this helps

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    Quote Originally Posted by hotbo View Post
    you can always buy a moroso electric valve like we do and shut the water off with a toggle switch any time you want.we have run lots bigger cams and never had a issue.you want very little steam coming out of the headers and flip the switch to dry out staring at around 2500 rpm.thats what we do been doing it for years,those check valves suck and yes you can have water reversion.hope this helps
    Good call Hotbo, we have a check valve but we have a manual on/off valve routed up to the driver's seat. Your electric switch is a good idea

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    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    moroso makes them and you just plum it inline and it cost 100 bucksit just takes hot wire and ground and wamo your there,my ole mans been running them since the late 70s.use to get them at a plumbing store but no more last ones we ordered were from jegs.

    we like them b/c if you want dry when you race or whatever you can flip it off,going down the lake you want water you flip it on.

    but the biggest mistake i see peeps make it running way to much water to begin with.they run around looking like a steam engine,lol!!!!

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    dry
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    I do have a Bassett T Valve "just the T with a check valve in it and i have a manual valve on the main headers feed line, that i keep about 75% of the water flow shut off from the Headers all the time and i have to keep a couple of the water feed fittings to headers cracked open " so they spew water at the fittings" which i hate doing. If i tighten all the fittings at the feed nipples on the headers and keep the incoming water flow at 75% closed the motor will hardly start or run because it appears its trying to suck water into the motor at start up. But when i crack open the water fittings at the headers nipples where they can relieve even more pressure then the motor starts right up and runs fine..............So with that being said what is the proper solution to this problem.
    Cole TR1 "On the Chip at 2500!"

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    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dry View Post
    I do have a Bassett T Valve "just the T with a check valve in it and i have a manual valve on the main headers feed line, that i keep about 75% of the water flow shut off from the Headers all the time and i have to keep a couple of the water feed fittings to headers cracked open " so they spew water at the fittings" which i hate doing. If i tighten all the fittings at the feed nipples on the headers and keep the incoming water flow at 75% closed the motor will hardly start or run because it appears its trying to suck water into the motor at start up. But when i crack open the water fittings at the headers nipples where they can relieve even more pressure then the motor starts right up and runs fine..............So with that being said what is the proper solution to this problem.
    im trying to give you a solution,you need to dry the headers out completely before shut off and start up.hence the electric valve for 100 bucks or any manual valve you can turn off.some peeps run a valve up to the drivers seat to shut it off and dry them out either way works good.

    i run 1 line out of my t-stat housing to dump in the lake.the other goes to the headers.electric valve then to a 3/8 ball valve to a t-fitting then to the headers.i control the water to my headers with the small valve.flip switch off and on when i want or dont want water.these things work great.i have seen alot of fellas run to many damn valves and clutter stuff up you dont need but one valve to control the headers water flow.simple yet very effective,well has been for us any way,i wish i could post up links to jegs but i dont know how,lol!!!!anyway its called a moroso soleniod valve in there book.hope this helps ,just trying to give you a simple option.



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    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    these here are olders ones the newer version ones are cleaner looking and of course you could do a better job of plumbing if your looking for prettynis


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    Thank You very much i wasn't understanding the electric valve part, but now i do and thanks for the post............I am looking right now on Jegs online catalog i do believe this is the solution and i like the thought behind it versus going totally dry all the time...................
    Cole TR1 "On the Chip at 2500!"

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    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dry View Post
    Thank You very much i wasn't understanding the electric valve part, but now i do and thanks for the post............I am looking right now on Jegs online catalog i do believe this is the solution and i like the thought behind it versus going totally dry all the time...................
    your welcome.im not a big fan of dry all the time.for one thing on our lakes it is just another reason for the police to look at us and another the water does keep the headers cool to a certain degree and quite them down a notch

    its a very simple fix.the big problem is the bassett t-valves dont totally dry the headers out upon idle at least the ones ive found and if you have a decent cam profile this can kill a motor ir at least give you the start and cut-out blues upon take off b/c of the reversion problems.


    your not the first that has lookes at me funny or asked what is that funny looking valve forthey just plain work and as you have probably noticed i like them,lol!!!!!good luck and if you cant find it in the catalog ill look it up for ya and give you a part #.travis

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