Solid roller lifters
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Solid roller lifters

  1. #1
    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    Default Solid roller lifters

    Heard sudden valve train noise today. Lash on # 6 exhaust is slightly more than double what it should be. If I change lifter brands, is that going to mess with my pushrod length? Shut it down early, hoping the lifter didn't spill its guts.
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

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    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brendellajet View Post
    Heard sudden valve train noise today. Lash on # 6 exhaust is slightly more than double what it should be. If I change lifter brands, is that going to mess with my pushrod length? Shut it down early, hoping the lifter didn't spill its guts.
    Chances are pretty good... yes. Some of the mfg's out there have different dimensions between the wheel CL and the pushrod ball CL.
    The Bostick®

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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    Well, its going to get torn down. Sucks, this thing has less than 40 hours of run time on it

    anyone know care to guess why it failed? Also, anyone know which brand lifter this is? Chances are good I dont want to re-use them. Will be in the market for a new cam as well as there is some damage on the lobe.

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    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    That blows!
    This thread is going to get real good, real fast, though.
    Crower severe duty with hippo (or whatever) oiling. (run these, not what those are)

    Wags

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    That blows!
    This thread is going to get real good, real fast, though.
    Crower severe duty with hippo (or whatever) oiling. (run these, not what those are)

    Wags
    I agree 100%. Thats just ugly and will require alot of cleaning and yes the cam is trashed. Sorry but I did not build the engine and or know how that bar and lifter came out. Good luck and if you want to know a grinder in the OC area PM me and I will tell you. M

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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    That blows!
    This thread is going to get real good, real fast, though.
    Crower severe duty with hippo (or whatever) oiling. (run these, not what those are)

    Wags
    Yeah, definitely blows. Ruined a vacation too. Hopefully I can get a hold of the engine builder tomorrow to find out what the lifters were...not that it will help, but atleast Ill know what not to buy for the rebuild. Hopefully the cam and lifters are all that needs replacing.
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

  9. #7
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
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    Isky all the way, my .02

    Always check lifter to lifter bore clearance too when changing brands, very important. They are not all the same size

  10. #8
    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    They look kinda like Crane Ultras... I have pulled out a couple of sets of these puppies in the last couple of months and they do not seem to fair well... or at least in the two engines I removed them... or rather had to cut them out of the block and drive out the bottom of the lifter bore. The cams didn't fair well as well. Both sets destroyed axles and rollers... and the lifters that didn't go "adios" you could take the roller and move them to and fro, and while rolling on your thumb feel the needles crunching along. Not saying they are a bad part... just that of the two sets that I have come across in the last month 100% of those sets were completly junk, Lord knows it would be unreasonable for me to use that experience as a refrence to which I would base an opinion. I mean, Crane lifters I am sure are top notch stuff... great... super... peachy-keen if you will. So... any Crane fans out there... I am not, I repeat, NOT shitting upon Crane's unblemished reputation, nor am I saying that their Ultra lifters are nothing but the finest American made products the world has thus far seen.


    Personally, I prefer the Crower Severe Duty... have not had an issue with them, been very happy with both the quality and the service life of their lifters. Going on my 7th season in my river hotrod with them and still in good shape with 270lb seat 750lb open springs turning past 7k. About the only solid roller lifter I will purchase for customer or my own engines.

    Isky's seem to be good as well, not as much experience with them, but haven't had an issue with any that I have used.

    Also... depending on how bad the damage is on the lobe... you may be able to have the cam reground if the damage is not too bad... I mean like damage where you think, "damn... kinda a bummer." and not, "Wholy sheeat this thing is FOCKED!"
    Last edited by six-oh-nine; 06-21-2011 at 11:29 PM.
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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    Here is a pic of the lobe.

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    The lifter is either a Morel, GS, or a Crane. Easiest way to tell is if the tang where the link bar is connected is polished like the body of the lifter then it is a Morel. If it is black on dull color then that narrows it down to GS or Crane. In addition Morel and Crane used to use a button in natural finish like shown. Morel now uses a black oxided button.

    Either brand I don't think that is the problem you have an oiling issue as the spauling on the wheel and the lobe attest to that. You need to mic the lifter bore and then mic the lifters and see how much clearance you got. Proper clearance is .014 to .018". Too loose or to tight in the lifter bores can lead to trouble. We need some more info on this but I don't feel the lifter failed, I feel something else was wrong and the lifter took the abuse as long as it could.
    Last edited by cstraub; 06-22-2011 at 09:52 AM. Reason: add more info
    Chris Straub
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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstraub View Post
    The lifter is either a Morel or a Crane. Easiest way to tell is if the tang where the link bar is connected is polished like the body of the lifter then it is a Morel. If it is black on dull color then it is Crane. In addition Morel and Crane use to use a button in natural finish like shown. Morel now uses a black oxided button.

    Either brand I don't think that is the problem you have an oiling issue as the spauling on the wheel and the lobe attest to that. You need to mic the lifter bore and then mic the lifters and see how much clearance you got. Proper clearance is .014 to .018". Too loose or to tight in the lifter bores can lead to trouble. We need some more info on this but I don't feel the lifter failed, I feel something else was wrong and the lifter took the abuse as long as it could.
    Thanks for posting Chris. Motor has 37 hours on it. Would a lifter really last that long if something was wrong? Motor was built by a pro that everyone has heard of. Not trying to do any bashing on product or builders, just front to understand what happened and learn from it so I can hopefully catch it in time, next time. What sux is that lash was spot on last week. Put another 7-10 minutes on it when I heard it loosen up.
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

  14. #12
    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brendellajet View Post
    Here is a pic of the lobe.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    If that is as bad as the damage is... from the picture, I would say that you could regrind that without a hassle... especially if you wish to keep the same grind.

    How much time do you spend idling around and how stout are your springs? Do you run oil restrictors?
    Last edited by six-oh-nine; 06-22-2011 at 08:35 AM.
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    Bostick Racing Engines six-oh-nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstraub View Post
    The lifter is either a Morel or a Crane. Easiest way to tell is if the tang where the link bar is connected is polished like the body of the lifter then it is a Morel. If it is black on dull color then it is Crane. In addition Morel and Crane use to use a button in natural finish like shown. Morel now uses a black oxided button.

    Either brand I don't think that is the problem you have an oiling issue as the spauling on the wheel and the lobe attest to that. You need to mic the lifter bore and then mic the lifters and see how much clearance you got. Proper clearance is .014 to .018". Too loose or to tight in the lifter bores can lead to trouble. We need some more info on this but I don't feel the lifter failed, I feel something else was wrong and the lifter took the abuse as long as it could.

    I tend to like the clearance a little bit tighter than that...
    The Bostick®

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    Can't re-Member 28Eliminator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by six-oh-nine View Post
    I tend to like the clearance a little bit tighter than that...
    I'm thinking Chris forgot a "0"
    I'd agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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