good head ???
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good head ???

  1. #1
    Senior Member jms-1's Avatar
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    Default good head ???

    I know how everyone is about details so, the boat is a 19' miller jet, '' A '' impeller . the old engine was a 30 over BBC 427 , -50.cc dome , winters 074 heads . comp cams xm288h hyd flat cam. old school weiand rect port with sideways 750's. it would turn a solid 5100 rpm. this combo ran flawless for 7+ seasons as a river/ski boat. i was going to build the exact same engine again with maybe a similar roller cam. now I'm thinking maybe i should sell the 074's and use a set of Brodix RR 270cc or equivalent, but keep everything else about the same . lets here some opinions please....

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  3. #2
    cfm
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    Those Brodix have seemed to do well.

    I thought you where stroking this engine ? You have a tall deck 427 block right ?

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    Senior Member jms-1's Avatar
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    yes i do have a TD block but decided to use that for a different project ( hydro).the engine in this is just a std 9.8 4blt .this boat is just our family boat and runs good for what it is so i want to keep the engine about the same
    Last edited by jms-1; 07-26-2011 at 08:21 AM. Reason: new info

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    steelcomp was here
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    If you're concerned with keeping the stock ex port location, that's going to be about your only choice in an aftermarket alum. head. Regardless, they work well with the right cam. Be sure the get the CNC chamber option. If the ex isn't an issue, another choice would be the small oval AFR 265. It's a much better flowing head than the Brodix, even with Brodix' CNC chamber. The AFR ex ports are raised .375" from stock. AFR has a CNC chamber option but it kills a bit if the upper lift low in trade for some really strong 2,3 and 400" lift flow numbers. If you're going to run a cam in the .550" lift range, the CNC chamber would be the way to go. IMO, if you're going to run in the 600-650" range, the extra flow up there without the CNC chamber would be beneficial. Again, the CNC option on the Brodix is the only option I'd recommend as it's a significant improvement over the non CNC head.
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    Senior Member back2k5's Avatar
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    Awww...this was a deceiving thread title

  8. #6
    Senior Member jms-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Awww...this was a deceiving thread title
    ...


    I haven't decided on a cam yet, the AFR heads are very nice but a bit out of my budget for this , i figured by selling the winters heads i could pay for some bare brodix heads with little out of pocket $. now i have more questions,
    should i keep the heads i have insted of the brodix? they are in great shape with no damage or repairs ( why i was thinking about selling them now before they get damaged,)
    should i think about switching to oval ports to get the runner cc's down?
    also just so I'm clear ,when you say ''raised exhaust ports" is just the port exit raised or the entire exhaust mounting flange surface.

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    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Awww...this was a deceiving thread title
    Yeah I agree

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    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
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    Hell, it is going in a jet boat. Just spray paint your cast iron heads silver. It will do the same thing. ROFL!
    Wags

  11. #9
    steelcomp was here
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    Quote Originally Posted by jms-1 View Post
    ...


    I haven't decided on a cam yet, the AFR heads are very nice but a bit out of my budget for this , i figured by selling the winters heads i could pay for some bare brodix heads with little out of pocket $. now i have more questions,
    should i keep the heads i have insted of the brodix? they are in great shape with no damage or repairs ( why i was thinking about selling them now before they get damaged,)
    should i think about switching to oval ports to get the runner cc's down?
    also just so I'm clear ,when you say ''raised exhaust ports" is just the port exit raised or the entire exhaust mounting flange surface.
    IMO the ovals would work a lot better in the rpm range you're running and the small c.i.. The AFR's and Brodix are priced about the same except for special deals.
    Those Winters heads are popular for the traditionalist guys...you see a lot for sale that were ported by Brandywine, Jenkins, etc. and have been welded on, repaired, abused and so on. If you have a pair that are unhurt and still in good condition you might be able to get a decent price for them, but also understand that buying a set of bare heads isn't the cheapest/least expensive way to go. It might ensure that you get what you want as far as the quality of the parts you use to build them, but it will cost you more in the long run.
    When they say the ex port is raised, that means the entire ex flange and bolt pattern is raised and can be a problem with some exhaust systems when switching heads. If you have headers it shoudn't matter. If your miller has logs and hoses it might mean new hoses.
    Bottom line is, if you're happy with the way the boat runs, you could freshen up the engine and heads, get some flow numbers and do a roller cam upgrade. If you;re starting form scratch on a new engine, then you might consider a stroker and move the engine more into the operating range of the heads where the runners aren't as much of an issue. That old school Weiand and those heads are pretty cool and "period correct" in a Miller.
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    Senior Member MACHINEHEAD1's Avatar
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    Trick Flow 280 ovals might fit the bill. Never used them before. Inexpensive at Summit/ATECH. Took delivery of a pair monday. 145lbs on the seat 385 at .520. Ferrea valves. Excellent gasket match to Felpro. Light core shift in the bowl. I left it alone. Dart 2pc guide plates are an absolute pain in the ass. +.190-.200 pushrods required w/Comp 224/230 shelf HROL and Comp lifters. 70 Chevelle SS convert 4 spd (clone) LS6 454+.100/ Perf RPM/ 9.7 comp ratio/ Dougs 1.875 headers. Hope to chassis dyno it late next week. Vintage air still to be finished and real rally type dash. 350-360 at the wheels? I will post findings if it helps with your choice. This would be about 430-440 crank on my dynojet.

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    Senior Member MACHINEHEAD1's Avatar
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    I also had an extra .035-.040 piston to valve clearence w/TFS over the correct LS6 semi-open-looking 108 cc chamber head. I noticed you had a big dome you might be re-using: if this info matters in cam selection. You could mock up what you have for PTVC now, it may guide you as to what you can expect with the TFS. Just a note. Obviously check any new cam/head combo.

  14. #12
    Senior Member David_396's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Awww...this was a deceiving thread title
    Is there Bad head?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jms-1 View Post
    yes i do have a TD block but decided to use that for a different project ( hydro).the engine in this is just a std 9.8 4blt .this boat is just our family boat and runs good for what it is so i want to keep the engine about the same
    Not that i know anything...cause i don't but it seems like the stoker deal is more suited to the jet and dogging a 3.76 down to 5100 is giving up what that short stroke does best...I have a ski hydro with a 427 roller/660's 11.5-1 closed chamber pump gas...5k is about where it starts to get happy....and i don't think it would work well at all in a jet....just my opinion...I will be swapping in a few different motors next month...ie jet boat motors with 4.25-4.50 stroke and 6600 red line.
    "A liberal paradise would be a place where everybody has
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  16. #14
    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    I have the Brodix 280cc rectangle BB1 on our .030 454.
    Crane Gold rockers, Brodix girdles.
    19' Miller with a stainless A. Droop and Place.

    9.5:1, Comp Hyd. roller. .565, 302 advertised.
    TR with 2 750's. Used to have 2 660's on it.
    EX. ports are raised .6

    Turns 5400-5600, 80 - 85 MPH on GPS.
    Tommy
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