New loader?
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New loader?

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    Default New loader?

    Greg, I was told you were the person to talk to. I have an 89 Crusader laid up pretty heavy. Once upon a time the boat was called Too Trick for Dick and had a 580 Twin Turbo with iron heads. The boat made a wicked right hand turn at 85 mph. I bought the boat and have had a 468 twin turbo, and I don't think I have come close to that magic number. The 468 gave up the ghost and I am now building a 540 twin turbo for it, which may bring me closer to that point.

    The loader is about 25 years old I would guess. AA Berkely pump built by Doc Jet with not too many hours since being rebuilt. I am guessing it is about time to change out the loader. With the 468 I never had any cavitation issues, though I know the 580 did, but was also making about 25 lbs of boost, where I think I will only be in the 12 to 15 range. I am going Aluminum head, so saving a little weight there as well.

    Any suggestions for a loader? Or should I just have mine magged? Thank you!

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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible_buddhist View Post
    Greg, I was told you were the person to talk to. I have an 89 Crusader laid up pretty heavy. Once upon a time the boat was called Too Trick for Dick and had a 580 Twin Turbo with iron heads. The boat made a wicked right hand turn at 85 mph. I bought the boat and have had a 468 twin turbo, and I don't think I have come close to that magic number. The 468 gave up the ghost and I am now building a 540 twin turbo for it, which may bring me closer to that point.

    The loader is about 25 years old I would guess. AA Berkely pump built by Doc Jet with not too many hours since being rebuilt. I am guessing it is about time to change out the loader. With the 468 I never had any cavitation issues, though I know the 580 did, but was also making about 25 lbs of boost, where I think I will only be in the 12 to 15 range. I am going Aluminum head, so saving a little weight there as well.

    Any suggestions for a loader? Or should I just have mine magged? Thank you!
    What intake is in the boat? Has the bottom been modified? What shoe are you currently running? What size nozzle are you running? Where is the shoe in relation to the Keel. Where does your current loader aim at the impeller?

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    Wow, I am not even sure how to begin answering those questions.

    Will any of these pictures help? DSC_0094 | Flickr: Intercambio de fotos

    huh...I thought I had some pics of the bottom of the boat, how do I go about researching the answers to your questions?

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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible_buddhist View Post
    Wow, I am not even sure how to begin answering those questions.

    Will any of these pictures help? DSC_0094 | Flickr: Intercambio de fotos

    huh...I thought I had some pics of the bottom of the boat, how do I go about researching the answers to your questions?
    Go to sears and buy a 50buck electronic angle finder , craftsman makes a nice 2ftr with built in anglefinder.youll also need a long straight edge or level.i use a brick layers level cuz its 4ft and my craftsmen angle finder magneticlly attaches to the metal straight edges on the long level...

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

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    I do know the bottom was straightened way way back when. the nozzle is just a stock place diverter. I am not sure how to measure the show or loader angle.

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    I just snapped a bunch of pics if this helps any...

    https://drive.google.com/folderview?...mc&usp=sharing

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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible_buddhist View Post
    Any suggestions for a loader? Or should I just have mine magged? Thank you!

    You should have that loader checked to be safe regardless and try the combo you have as is before you make a change. That pump looks to be setup already with the shimstack that is there for the shoe in conjunction with the rideplate. A droop snoot wouldn't hurt to try either if it's a heavy boat like you stated.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible_buddhist View Post
    Wow, I am not even sure how to begin answering those questions.

    Will any of these pictures help? DSC_0094 | Flickr: Intercambio de fotos

    huh...I thought I had some pics of the bottom of the boat, how do I go about researching the answers to your questions?
    here is what I would do.

    first, pull that loader out of there. find somebody with a bead blaster and clean it all up. check every weld and all the pieces for cracks with die penetrant. if there are cracks, have a certified welder tell you whether or not they can be repaired. if they can be fixed, fix them. clean the thing up and coat it. I use brown rustoleum. different people have different preferences.
    take some measurements. how deep is the ramp leading edge from the pad? how long are the ramps? just looking at it, there's nothing necessarily wrong with the design. the condition is another story. these things can crack and break over time with catastrophic results. this thing should be removed routinely and eyeballed for any deformation or cracks.

    second, while the loader is out, crawl under there with a straight edge at least 4' long. hold the straight edge tight to the centerline of the keel, to the biting edge of the shoe. measure where that biting edge is, compared to keel centerline. above or below, and by how much.

    third, just for info purposes, the shoe you have is a "tapered" shoe. as opposed to flat or backcut. there's no real way to tell you if you would benefit from a flat or backcut shoe without seeing how the boat looks, riding at speed. generally speaking, a heavier boat can benefit from a backcut because it will get the boat on top of the water sooner (creates more lift). a higher hp lighter boat may want a flat or tapered shoe as it may not want any more lift.

    fourth, to determine nozzle angle and plate angle, most people use digital protractors. you can spend anywhere from 40 to 800 for a digital protractor. the one I've been using for a very long time is similar to this one Sears.com

    you say that's a "stock" pd nozzle? is it "stock" with inserts, or does it have no inserts? you might see positive results just having the nozzle bored for FTN inserts, playing with different sizes.

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