Vibration
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 24

Thread:
Vibration

  1. #1
    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    1,063

    Default Vibration

    I replaced my rear pump mount to a full 4 point mount. After doing this took out to Elsinore and now have vibration at 3000 rpms and gets worse the more rmp. I have pulled bowl, flexplate, shaft and looked over all parts. Nothing in impeller but did notice new bell housing is touching the top of pump intake( where if you thru bolt your grate/loader is). Before I go any further...like pull pump to replace thrust bearing....any ideas. I dont hear any noise, grumble or whatever. I spun shaft with hand and seems free and consistent. My u joint was replaced 7-8 years back and has jap bearings with zerks. The bell housing mount didnt allow me to hit the front bearing with grease but know with the new housing I am able to and did so before taking it out. The pump was fully serviced at that time with all new internals...shaft,impeller,inducer..ect. The crank to pump shaft are about parallel with a 3 1/2 degree angle and is in the same place as the bell housing mount.
    Made In The Shade

    Custom Window Tinting

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Jet boat service
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sebastopol Cal.
    Posts
    126

    Default

    Krusn, Shoot me a call if you can't find an answer. Easier to talk. Jim

  4. #3
    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Performance Jet View Post
    Krusn, Shoot me a call if you can't find an answer. Easier to talk. Jim
    Need #
    Made In The Shade

    Custom Window Tinting

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    Anyone? Taking my driveline in tomorrow..Shaved off 2 small areas on bottom of bell housing and checked plugs.
    Made In The Shade

    Custom Window Tinting

  7. #5
    CANT RE MEMBER FARMER JOHN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    DOME VALLEY,AZ
    Posts
    1,159

    Default

    When you were makeing all the changes did you by chance take your flywheel off

  8. #6
    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    Nothing was removed except rear mount...even left drive line on. Just slid over for install.
    Made In The Shade

    Custom Window Tinting

  9. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    209

    Default

    I know you said you changed your U joints 7 to 8 yrs ago. But you might want to change them again thats a cheap and easy fix if that the prob.

  10. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Newbury Park, Ca/Mohave Valley, Az
    Posts
    8,169

    Default 7 -8 years...

    Quote Originally Posted by Wafobaby View Post
    I know you said you changed your U joints 7 to 8 yrs ago. But you might want to change them again thats a cheap and easy fix if that the prob.
    I think you might be experiencing a "U Joint load" change... The angle is just a little different and now the rollers are running/loading in a different place in the cups... It also happens in vehicles when they're lifted, or lowered, after years of running "stock" angles... I would first change the u joints, or at least pull a cup or two and see if there is any wear patterns inside....
    Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

  11. #9
    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    I took driveline out to shop. Its an early style short with inside clips and one side moves 1/16 back and forth. Anyone have any suggestions....My hatch, floor and interior is built with close tolerance to engine location...Replacing joints will not fix.

    Made In The Shade

    Custom Window Tinting

  12. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Newbury Park, Ca/Mohave Valley, Az
    Posts
    8,169

    Default Confused??

    I'm a little confused by your last post/pics... What is it that moves 1/16th? Are you saying the cups, or cup, moves in the trunnion, or the "cross bar" moves in between the cups?..... Is the trunnion tweaked/spread? AND, what does the close proximity of interior parts/pieces have to do with replacing the u joints? OR, are you saying you can't change to a longer style coupler because of interior interference?... Those short, "H Bar" couplers work fine and are usually more forgiving to pump shaft to crankshaft alignment....AND, those H bar styles will run dead on, no need for minor misalignment to keep the u joints working... At least that's what I've heard... So, what moves 1/16th???..
    Ray
    PS If the trunnions aren't the same spread, there is a u joint that has different cross bar dimensions... One of the early T Bird "big" cars used them, but I seem to remember the difference was more than 1/16th between the two....
    Last edited by Moneypit; 05-08-2012 at 04:52 PM.
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

  13. #11
    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    The flange that bolts to the engine comes out to a big C or U shape which holds two of the bearing caps. The bearing cap on the right(pic 1) moves 1/16. This makes the whole joint move side to side. These have bearing cap clips on the inside area and moves about the thickness of the clip. All the other caps are solid except for that one. Took it to two different driveline shops in San D(both highly recommended) ...they both said a new u joint will not fix this. This style of driveline hasnt been made for years so if this cant be fixed, I might have to get a newer style drive and that would mean new interior, hatch, floor..ect...This drive is a total of 7" long. The newer would put me at 8" or over...meaning motor moves forward.
    Made In The Shade

    Custom Window Tinting

  14. #12
    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Puget Sound Wa
    Posts
    673

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by krusn56 View Post
    but did notice new bell housing is touching the top of pump intake( where if you thru bolt your grate/loader is)..
    ever had a car that the exhaust touches the frame or drivetrain? It will sound like the car is rattling apart.

    I would eliminate the rattle/rub first.


    That ujoint can be tightened up to. You can peen the inside of the cap holes (in the yokes) or put another clip behind the inner clips that are there. The new clips will not sit in the grove but act and a shim.

    You could even peen the edges of the sloppy holes to "push" little metal back over and tighten up the clips.


    Seriously tho, get those bell/pump parts to stop touching. I would bet thats allot of it.

  15. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by krusn56 View Post
    The bearing cap on the right(pic 1) moves 1/16. This makes the whole joint move side to side. These have bearing cap clips on the inside area and moves about the thickness of the clip. ...they both said a new u joint will not fix this.
    In your situation I would suggest getting the new U-joint and taking it to a machine shop. They should be able to either knurl the bore or bush the hole to get the proper fit. The two challenges are finding someone willing to mess with it and the cost (probably buy a new driveline for the cost of the repair).

    Doug

  16. #14
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Atascadero Calif
    Posts
    7,464

    Default

    Krusn Josh found this for ya yesterday if your still in need , just needs to swap out the end

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95