I replaced my rear pump mount to a full 4 point mount. After doing this took out to Elsinore and now have vibration at 3000 rpms and gets worse the more rmp. I have pulled bowl, flexplate, shaft and looked over all parts. Nothing in impeller but did notice new bell housing is touching the top of pump intake( where if you thru bolt your grate/loader is). Before I go any further...like pull pump to replace thrust bearing....any ideas. I dont hear any noise, grumble or whatever. I spun shaft with hand and seems free and consistent. My u joint was replaced 7-8 years back and has jap bearings with zerks. The bell housing mount didnt allow me to hit the front bearing with grease but know with the new housing I am able to and did so before taking it out. The pump was fully serviced at that time with all new internals...shaft,impeller,inducer..ect. The crank to pump shaft are about parallel with a 3 1/2 degree angle and is in the same place as the bell housing mount.
I know you said you changed your U joints 7 to 8 yrs ago. But you might want to change them again thats a cheap and easy fix if that the prob.
I think you might be experiencing a "U Joint load" change... The angle is just a little different and now the rollers are running/loading in a different place in the cups... It also happens in vehicles when they're lifted, or lowered, after years of running "stock" angles... I would first change the u joints, or at least pull a cup or two and see if there is any wear patterns inside....
I took driveline out to shop. Its an early style short with inside clips and one side moves 1/16 back and forth. Anyone have any suggestions....My hatch, floor and interior is built with close tolerance to engine location...Replacing joints will not fix.
I'm a little confused by your last post/pics... What is it that moves 1/16th? Are you saying the cups, or cup, moves in the trunnion, or the "cross bar" moves in between the cups?..... Is the trunnion tweaked/spread? AND, what does the close proximity of interior parts/pieces have to do with replacing the u joints? OR, are you saying you can't change to a longer style coupler because of interior interference?... Those short, "H Bar" couplers work fine and are usually more forgiving to pump shaft to crankshaft alignment....AND, those H bar styles will run dead on, no need for minor misalignment to keep the u joints working... At least that's what I've heard... So, what moves 1/16th???..
PS If the trunnions aren't the same spread, there is a u joint that has different cross bar dimensions... One of the early T Bird "big" cars used them, but I seem to remember the difference was more than 1/16th between the two....
The flange that bolts to the engine comes out to a big C or U shape which holds two of the bearing caps. The bearing cap on the right(pic 1) moves 1/16. This makes the whole joint move side to side. These have bearing cap clips on the inside area and moves about the thickness of the clip. All the other caps are solid except for that one. Took it to two different driveline shops in San D(both highly recommended) ...they both said a new u joint will not fix this. This style of driveline hasnt been made for years so if this cant be fixed, I might have to get a newer style drive and that would mean new interior, hatch, floor..ect...This drive is a total of 7" long. The newer would put me at 8" or over...meaning motor moves forward.
but did notice new bell housing is touching the top of pump intake( where if you thru bolt your grate/loader is)..
ever had a car that the exhaust touches the frame or drivetrain? It will sound like the car is rattling apart.
I would eliminate the rattle/rub first.
That ujoint can be tightened up to. You can peen the inside of the cap holes (in the yokes) or put another clip behind the inner clips that are there. The new clips will not sit in the grove but act and a shim.
You could even peen the edges of the sloppy holes to "push" little metal back over and tighten up the clips.
Seriously tho, get those bell/pump parts to stop touching. I would bet thats allot of it.
The bearing cap on the right(pic 1) moves 1/16. This makes the whole joint move side to side. These have bearing cap clips on the inside area and moves about the thickness of the clip. ...they both said a new u joint will not fix this.
In your situation I would suggest getting the new U-joint and taking it to a machine shop. They should be able to either knurl the bore or bush the hole to get the proper fit. The two challenges are finding someone willing to mess with it and the cost (probably buy a new driveline for the cost of the repair).