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2 more issues

  1. #1
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    Default 2 more issues

    So,, I said screw the diverter for now and took the boat out. It's overheating and I can't figure out why. And it was blowing oil out. Of the starboard side breather.

    It has a thermostat and a 4 way t-stat housing with a bassett t-valve..

    No pcv valve and 2 breathers.

    Thanks

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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    What did you do to it that might have caused this overheating? Have you touched the plumbing recently? If so, it helps to know what you did so we can help you undo it. If sounds like there is a clog or restriction somewhere. If you have any ball valve/gate valve on the setup, Id start looking there. Did someone turn a valve they shouldn't have? Perhaps the block has a clog in it, try pulling a couple freeze plugs from each side of the block. There are lots of threads on this, so Id start reading up on it. If this is a new to you boat, or the plumbing looks old, sometimes its just easier to start over.

    For the oil issue, Id do a compression test for starters. There are probably a few threads on that too.
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerAddict View Post
    So,, I said screw the diverter for now and took the boat out. It's overheating and I can't figure out why. And it was blowing oil out. Of the starboard side breather.

    It has a thermostat and a 4 way t-stat housing with a bassett t-valve..

    No pcv valve and 2 breathers.

    Thanks
    Describe the performance of the boat (sans heating) in general did it feel OK otherwize? also IS there a thermostat actually in the housing ? if so what type ? re the oil maybe a stuck or sticky ring time for a compression a cylinder leak down test ...

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    I'll try and explain as best I can, sorry for limited info earlier, I was posting from my phone.

    I've been fighting this boat the whole time I've had it, so I'm not sure if it had an issue before because I've never really gotten to drive it for very long.

    I put the engine in, but kept the plumbing the way the guy before me had it. Coming from the pump, there is a gate valve plumbed to a pressure relief valve, that goes to a "T" which goes to the water pump ports, and up to the 2 bottom ports on the thermostat housing. There is a thermostat in the housing, its brass, not sure what temp its set to open. Then on the top of the t-stat housing one line goes to a gate valve for the exit through the transom, the other side goes to the bassett "T" valve which then goes to the header lines.

    What intake gaskets are recommended for use on a jet?

    The engine is a 496 stroker, fairly stock heads, mild work, with big valves and Crane gold roller rockers, hydraulic roller cam, tunnel ram with twin 600's, OT headers.

    There aren't very many hours on the engine. However, last year some poly locks broke and I had to end up resetting the rockers/lash Could a hanging valve cause the oil issue?

    As far as how the engine was running; Coming onto plane it seemed to miss/stumble for a very narrow RPM window, and then even out again slowing down and speeding up on plane didn't seem to have any issues. It also was starting hard when warm. But, other than that, it really ran pretty great. Off idle is great, returns to idle great, Had plenty of get up.

    Carbs were just professionally rebuilt and synched with the linkage. Distributor was professionally curved, 34 degrees by around 2800.

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    Senior Member Josh@JBP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerAddict View Post
    I put the engine in, but kept the plumbing the way the guy before me had it. Coming from the pump, there is a gate valve plumbed to a pressure relief valve, that goes to a "T" which goes to the water pump ports, and up to the 2 bottom ports on the thermostat housing. There is a thermostat in the housing, its brass, not sure what temp its set to open. Then on the top of the t-stat housing one line goes to a gate valve for the exit through the transom, the other side goes to the bassett "T" valve which then goes to the header lines.
    .
    Sounds like you got your upper and lower hoses mixed up on your 4 Port T-stat housing. The bypass hoses from the tees on the "water pump ports" should feed the top two ports of the housing for when the thermostat is closed. Another thing, is there a plunger and spring inside the housing also?

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    Jackwagon Patrolman Rexone's Avatar
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    Josh is exactly correct. Switch the hoses. Our diagrams below...




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    Welp, I worded wrong, it is plumbed with the block hoses going to the top, the outlets out the bottom. However there is NO plunger and spring.

  10. #8
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerAddict View Post
    Welp, I worded wrong, it is plumbed with the block hoses going to the top, the outlets out the bottom. However there is NO plunger and spring.
    Absent the plunger and spring it will likley overheat .. Tom

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    Jackwagon Patrolman Rexone's Avatar
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    Yes it will, just bypass most the water right out the exhaust w/o going through engine = overheat.

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    Can someone send me a link as to what the plunger is?

    Any ideas on the blowing oil?

  13. #11
    Jackwagon Patrolman Rexone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerAddict View Post
    Can someone send me a link as to what the plunger is?

    Any ideas on the blowing oil?
    You will need the plastic valve and the spring. Also the seat and snap ring if they've been removed from inside the housing. Here is a link. Rex Marine Thermostat Kit for Chevy and Olds V8: Automotive Performance Products, Boat & Marine Parts & Hardware

  14. #12
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    Default You answered your own question...

    Quote Originally Posted by PowerAddict View Post
    So,, I said screw the diverter for now and took the boat out. It's overheating and I can't figure out why. And it was blowing oil out. Of the starboard side breather.

    It has a thermostat and a 4 way t-stat housing with a bassett t-valve..

    No pcv valve and 2 breathers.

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by PowerAddict View Post
    Can someone send me a link as to what the plunger is?

    Any ideas on the blowing oil?
    Blowing oil is an indication of too much internal crankcase pressure. It is also an indication that the breathers are, A, too short, or B, not baffled inside the valvecovers, or both... I've had great success by adding a PCV valve on one side and a baffled breather/filler cap on the other.... The old "Offy" breathers look cool, but unless they're baffled inside they will allow liquid oil to the top, and out......A simple PCV valve connected to manifold vacuum MAY solve your problem....
    Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

  15. #13
    Senior Member $uperJoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rexone View Post
    You will need the plastic valve and the spring. Also the seat and snap ring if they've been removed from inside the housing. Here is a link. Rex Marine Thermostat Kit for Chevy and Olds V8: Automotive Performance Products, Boat & Marine Parts & Hardware
    ive seen those at the lake but thought they were original equipment. i didnt know you could buy them aftermarket. is there one for the 460 BBF?

  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit View Post
    Blowing oil is an indication of too much internal crankcase pressure. It is also an indication that the breathers are, A, too short, or B, not baffled inside the valvecovers, or both... I've had great success by adding a PCV valve on one side and a baffled breather/filler cap on the other.... The old "Offy" breathers look cool, but unless they're baffled inside they will allow liquid oil to the top, and out......A simple PCV valve connected to manifold vacuum MAY solve your problem....
    Ray
    thanks guys!

    It was also suggested I run breathers with the tube on it, and run it to the EVAC ports on my headers. Think that might do the same thing?

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