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Electric Pump Draws 20 AMP?

  1. #29
    79 Sanger Picklefork Tittyman's Avatar
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    Dec 2007
    Coeur d'Alene, Idaho


    Quote Originally Posted by Brendellajet View Post
    have you actually had this thing quit while cruising on the water? Free flow testing with the gas can is quite a bit different than running it on the trailer idling for 20-30 minutes.
    Yes out on the water and it quit..If I decide to go mechanical will this pump do the job without a regulator...

    Or if I move the regulator over to the other side and run a fuel line from the fuel pump to the regulator..would that end the dead head issues and the heating of the pump problem? It would be fairly easy to do..also that gauge pressure line is gone it was temporary..thanks
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    Last edited by Tittyman; 06-27-2012 at 09:35 AM.
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  3. #30
    Senior Member SoldHondaBoughtHondo's Avatar
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    Oct 2009
    Lake Havasu az.


    Quote Originally Posted by ap67et10 View Post
    Honestly, my personal opinion is that unless you have a PCM that is monitoring and controlling current to the fuel pump, All electric pumps should be on a return system only. Most small electric pumps can work on deadhead, but without a doubt they will be worked harder than they should.
    I haven't worked on anything with a pcm since '96 (automotive) but the pcm usually turns pump of/on with oil pressure sensor/relay and the pumps don't run dead head. I run a fairly fresh holley blue on my deal with a pump bypass switch...if the ignition is on and the motor isn't running i turn the pump off.

    I could have set it up with a 3 wire gm oil switch/relay but didn't want the extra wiring and the noise it makes is enough motivation to remember to turn it off.Dead head and stalled is 2 different things to a pump that can't bypass internally,mine will start packing heat pretty quick running without being able to flow the fuel necessary to feed a motor at idle and an electric motor that has been overheated even one time will kill itself..ie pop a 7.5 add a 10 pop that try a 15 motor gets hotter and hurts itself a little more...the reason for the 7.5 was to protect the motor not the wires...his pump motor might be already hurt...

    Might try an unloaded volume test..see if it will flow rated volume at rated voltage...A hurt motor won't spin rated rpm...something that isn't all that obvious. If it won't flow it needs to go...

    Jap bike electric pumps have an internal circuit breaker..stall the pump it just shuts of for a second, resets, shuts off,resets and the hotter it gets the longer it stays off to a point, as soon as it resets with no excessive load it's cools back down.

    Probably do the same thing with old style 7.5 amp gm circuit breaker. My deal runs a 20 amp..covers msd/fuel/bilge pump..i ran it dead short for an hour and all it did was get hot, they don't seem to mind 'working' at all.

    And like was already posted, need to voltage drop check the circuit. Dig,volt meter from bat+ to + at the pump with the pump running and 7.5 amp fuse....anything more than 1 volt drop is a potential problem..fastest way to kill and electric motor it to run it under load with low voltage.
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  4. #31
    Senior Member Fonz69's Avatar
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    Jan 2008
    Frozen Tundra, WI


    PLEASE! just run a return line to your tank and stop overheating those pumps

    I have seen a brand new holley blue burn up after 2 minutes of running on a deadhead regulator

    Installed a bypass regulator and no more problems

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