electrical ?
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electrical ?

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    Senior Member rogerroost's Avatar
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    Default electrical ?

    not sure if I have a problem or not. What should my voltmeter read key on ,engine off? mine reads 10.5,engine on 12.8ish. just had a battery replaced. alt tested ok. do my numbers seem right?

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    Senior Member larryfknrocks's Avatar
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    Default

    Mine reads a little over 12 volts when running

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogerroost View Post
    not sure if I have a problem or not. What should my voltmeter read key on ,engine off? mine reads 10.5,engine on 12.8ish. just had a battery replaced. alt tested ok. do my numbers seem right?
    Sometimes idling the motor isnt enough to spin to alt. Give it a test at 1000-1500 rpm. I like to see about 13-13.8 volts running and at least 12v key on engine off. Hope its as simple as an rpm issue

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    Senior Member Rivieraracing's Avatar
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    Best to use a voltmeter directly to the battery when checking the gauge to see how accurate the gauge is compared to it, running or not!! Unless you have some questionable wiring, they should be pretty close to each other!!

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    Are you talking a gauge or an actual multimeter that you are taking this number from?

    I personally have had a number of gauges that did not read correctly!

    I would check with an actual multimeter first and then compare to what the gauge is saying.

    It should read around 12v not running and 14v while motor is running.

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    Senior Member rogerroost's Avatar
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    i'm talkin just a new autometer volt gauge on the dash. I don't have a multimeter. I'll have to borrow one tomorrow. i guess the rest of the system pulls the voltage down with the key on.

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    Senior Member ap67et10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogerroost View Post
    i'm talkin just a new autometer volt gauge on the dash. I don't have a multimeter. I'll have to borrow one tomorrow. i guess the rest of the system pulls the voltage down with the key on.

    get the multimeter and check right off the volt gauge terminals. if they read the same then follow the power to the switch and check it there, then at the terminal block at the engine where the wires come from and then the battery. this will help you find where the voltage drop is happening (you aren't actually measuring true voltage drop this way, but the resistance issue is clearly big enough to show up this way, which means its probably an obvious issue) if that is what is happening. Also, if you use the battery neg terminal as ground then check all powers and they read correctly at all places then the do the opposite and check the ground wire at the gauges and use the power post on the battery. this will tell you whether the issue is on the ground or power side. this is the SIMPLEST way to test. its not the fastest, but its easy to figure out where the issue is by doing it this way.


    Andrew
    Last edited by ap67et10; 07-24-2012 at 08:39 PM.

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    Senior Member Rivieraracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spectra 224 View Post
    Are you talking a gauge or an actual multimeter that you are taking this number from?

    I personally have had a number of gauges that did not read correctly!

    I would check with an actual multimeter first and then compare to what the gauge is saying.

    It should read around 12v not running and 14v while motor is running.
    Sorry, I meant multimeter!!

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    Senior Member orange bahner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ap67et10 View Post
    get the multimeter and check right off the volt gauge terminals. if they read the same then follow the power to the switch and check it there, then at the terminal block at the engine where the wires come from and then the battery. this will help you find where the voltage drop is happening (you aren't actually measuring true voltage drop this way, but the resistance issue is clearly big enough to show up this way, which means its probably an obvious issue) if that is what is happening. Also, if you use the battery neg terminal as ground then check all powers and they read correctly at all places then the do the opposite and check the ground wire at the gauges and use the power post on the battery. this will tell you whether the issue is on the ground or power side. this is the SIMPLEST way to test. its not the fastest, but its easy to figure out where the issue is by doing it this way.


    Andrew

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    Default Just buy a multimeter

    A multimeter is an invaluable tool to have on hand. A good one shouldn't cost over $50. Spend any more and it'll probably flush the toilet for you. With the amount of money we spend on our boats, this is a drop in the bucket.

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    Cas
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    Quote Originally Posted by boatbroke View Post
    A multimeter is an invaluable tool to have on hand. A good one shouldn't cost over $50. Spend any more and it'll probably flush the toilet for you. With the amount of money we spend on our boats, this is a drop in the bucket.
    ditto that! I picked up a digital multimeter with a tach attachment at Harbor Freight just to keep in the motorhome, $19.99. Home Depot and Lowes also carry decent meters.

    Quote Originally Posted by rogerroost View Post
    not sure if I have a problem or not. What should my voltmeter read key on ,engine off? mine reads 10.5,engine on 12.8ish. just had a battery replaced. alt tested ok. do my numbers seem right?

    What is hooked up to the ignition system? If you have a stereo and an amp, those things will draw the voltage with the key on/ engine off which could show a voltage drop. If there are lights in the gauges that come on with the ign switch, those will also cause a drop.
    and Oh yea, check your ground wire connections.
    Last edited by Cas; 07-25-2012 at 08:49 AM.

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