Drive line u-joints
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Drive line u-joints

  1. #1
    Senior Member Mohavekid's Avatar
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    Default Drive line u-joints

    The u-joint in my driveline went out.

    Access to the driveline in the boat is minimal, I can't see any markings to help identify what the driveline is. I am getting ready to pull the motor to replace the u-joints, but I want to order the parts so I can get it put back together with minimal delay.

    Research tells me there are two types of jet drivelines, how can I tell if I have a 1310 or 1350 driveline. Are the u-joints different for each driveline? Are the u-joints a special marine type, or can my local auto parts stiore help me out?

    The boat is an 82 Sanger Mini Cruiser with a Harman 405 horse 454 Chevy and a Berkeley "e" pump.

    Any thoughts are appreciated.

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    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
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    You can measure the cross and cap to determine if its a 1310 or 1350. A 1310 is 3.21 wide with a cap diameter of 1.0625. A 1350 is 3.625 wide and the cap diameter is 1.187.

    DONT use a parts store joint. They are crap. The needles are junk (soft) in the import cheapies. And the expensive lifetime ones are just a reboxed cheapy.

    Go to a driveline shop and ask for a forged Spicer joint. Its the OEM quality joint that belongs in there.

    I use Spicer joints in all the domestic 4X4 builds I complete.

  4. #3
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mohavekid View Post
    The u-joint in my driveline went out.

    Access to the driveline in the boat is minimal, I can't see any markings to help identify what the driveline is. I am getting ready to pull the motor to replace the u-joints, but I want to order the parts so I can get it put back together with minimal delay.

    Research tells me there are two types of jet drivelines, how can I tell if I have a 1310 or 1350 driveline. Are the u-joints different for each driveline? Are the u-joints a special marine type, or can my local auto parts stiore help me out?

    The boat is an 82 Sanger Mini Cruiser with a Harman 405 horse 454 Chevy and a Berkeley "e" pump.

    Any thoughts are appreciated.
    The type of mounting system for your engine and a picture of the area would likely tell us Tom

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  6. #4
    Senior Member Mohavekid's Avatar
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    The mounting is a four point mount.

    Here is the best picture i could get. The top mount starter is really in the way.
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  7. #5
    Senior Member Mohavekid's Avatar
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    Another pic.
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  8. #6
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    You have what we call a "long rockwell" approx 8 1/2 OAL , it can be rebuilt with new ujoints or replaced with a seperate PTO and 1310 driveline combination Tom

  9. #7
    Senior Member Mohavekid's Avatar
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    Thanks

    Is there some advantage to a rebuild or a replacement to the pto and driveline type set up?

  10. #8
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mohavekid View Post
    Thanks

    Is there some advantage to a rebuild or a replacement to the pto and driveline type set up?
    Depends on what wear and tear has occured over the years how much work you want to put into the current DL and if you were to wish to rock a newer more modern driveline or not Tom

  11. #9
    Senior Member SBS933's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chop Shop View Post
    You can measure the cross and cap to determine if its a 1310 or 1350. A 1310 is 3.21 wide with a cap diameter of 1.0625. A 1350 is 3.625 wide and the cap diameter is 1.187.

    DONT use a parts store joint. They are crap. The needles are junk (soft) in the import cheapies. And the expensive lifetime ones are just a reboxed cheapy.

    Go to a driveline shop and ask for a forged Spicer joint. Its the OEM quality joint that belongs in there.

    I use Spicer joints in all the domestic 4X4 builds I complete.
    Definitely go to a driveline shop. It is money well spent.

  12. #10
    Senior Member Mohavekid's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info everyone.

    I will get this one out and to a driveline shop for an inspection and rebuild estimate to start.

  13. #11
    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    You have what we call a "long rockwell" approx 8 1/2 OAL , it can be rebuilt with new ujoints or replaced with a seperate PTO and 1310 driveline combination Tom
    The joints I see in his pics dont look like a spicer style joint to me. What are these joints?

    The pics make it look like a spicer/saginaw conversion joint. It looks like it has two caps with outer clips and twp caps with inner clips? Is that what Im seeing? Is this a norlam/common joint that is now obsolete or no longer used? Or is it a real oddball?

  14. #12
    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    I have the same but shorter version of this driveline...I now have 2 back ups just in case. The clips are on the inside. If I had the longer version, I would have upgraded. Dont want to rebuild my interior due to relocating motor/length of new style.
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  15. #13
    Senior Member Mohavekid's Avatar
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    It has been mentioned several times that the PTO and drive line is an upgrade to what I currently have.

    Can someone explain why the PTO and driveline is an upgrade?

    This part lasted 30 years before needing any attention, that seems pretty good to me.

  16. #14
    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    Easy disconnect when you run it out of water...
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