I've been able to get some great information from this site in a short time and several members have been very helpful.
I am not new to boating but new to jet boats. The boat I was considering for a project is a 1973 Slickcraft 194SS and I liked it because of the closed bow and chevy small block/jet drive combo. I got mixed opinions on the Jacuzzi YJ pump and understand that there are those who are not fans of them.
My goal - learn as much as I can and have fun slowly bringing back this boat to be a reliable and fun weekend boat that I can use for tubing with the kids or just running around. Speed is not my number one goal and I would think this boat (even with a different engine) would never see more that 350-375hp.
- nice trailer (also my exit strategy)
- fiberglass is in great shape
- pump appears to be in good shape - did an initial check of the impeller and clearance to wear ring
- all parts are there from what I can tell
- floor needs to be replaced (scary as it seems ... this is one thing that I want to do and I hope to learn a lot)
- engine has not been test run as the starter is bad
- dry/cracked epoxy around the intake so that will need to be removed and reset
So, with that said here are a few photos of the "new project" which I basically acquired for the price of the trailer. I won't cover the floor replacement as much in this thread because I'd like to see if I can document and get some input on the the jet drive (removal, intake reset, and testing the pump) from the folks here.
The trip home....my wife was thrilled at the sight
Some pic of the stern / pump:
The engine which I've found is a JX 245. I hope to remove the pump and have her fired up after going over a number of things.
Just a whole lot of floor work right there. Most has already been removed but I'll post some more pictures later.
Anyways... that's a quick snapshot of what I'm working with. Besides a number of engine tasks I am going to start with trying to remove the transom adapter and then on to the pump. Never done it before but it sounds like I need to remove all cables/controls and then cut the seal between the transom and then the seal between the adapter and the bowl. Hopefully then I'll get a better look inside. I'll also post up some pics looking down the hand hole cover.
Looks like a lot fo work Kent. Sounds like you have the drive and ability to tackle this project though. Hopefully the haters won't be too obnoxious and you will actually get some helpful advice here on the pump and motor. The YJ is a good pump if used for it's intended purpose. The YJ in my Ambassador does a great job for that boat.
The pump removal is fairly simple. Remove the bolts from the transom adapter. The adapter may be sealed with silicone to the boat as well as around the bowl. I use a razor knife to cut around where the adapter touches the transom and a sheetrock saw to cut between the bowl and adapter if there is silicone there. Sometimes there is an o-ring around the bowl instead of silicone. Sometimes there is both. Once the transom adapter is off you need to remove the bolts holding the suction housing to the intake. There are two bolts at the rear of the suction housing going up from the bottom. The other bolts are obvious from the top. Once the bolts are out the entire pump should just slide out the back of the boat.
The pump is disassembly is pretty simple. There is a snap ring that holds the front seal in. It is accessible through the hand hole cover. You need to remove the pipe that is the water supply for the motor. Other than that I think it is pretty straight forward. You remove the bolts from the perimeter of the bowl and pull it apart. It can be a bear to get the wear ring off if it is stuck from corrosion. Hopefully there is no need to remove the impeller. If you do need to get it off you will need a press.
Tom @ Jet Boat Performance will have all the parts you need for the pump rebuild including the epoxy to reset the intake. He is a great guy to deal with.
Keep the pics coming. I look forward to your progress. Let me know if I can help.
Last edited by Last Mohican; 08-28-2012 at 06:35 PM.
Thanks so much for the help with the pump removal and word of encouragement. I will reach out to Tom once I have the pump out and get an idea of what needs to be replaced or cleaned up. I will definitely need the epoxy to reset the intake and some seals for the pump at the least.
I was able to remove the transom adapter although the nut for the steering cable was completely fused to the threaded piece of alum that runs through the transom... add a new one of those to the list.
I've removed the 8 bolts on the top that bolt the pump to the intake and also removed the 2 that are in the rear and come from underneath. The pump itself is completely free from the intake and can slide around. It just won't pull out the back. I thought these were a simple slip yoke style so I'll have to see if there is something else or if it just needs a good tug.
Should the u-joint assembly come off with the pump? (i.e. where is the break between the pump and the motor)
Thanks again for the assistance and I'll continue to post up my progress. I couldn't find any good post regarding a YJ pump removal so at the least this might help someone else in the future ... when I get it figured out.
The yoke is a slip yoke and should just pull out. It may take a little persuasion to get it to go, but it will come eventually. I am curious why your tearing everything down before you know what's good and what's not? I know you said the epoxy is cracked, but does the suction housing leak"? If you look up through the intake you can kind of see the impeller. Is it all chewed up? How about a compression test on the motor? This maybe be a nice piece that just needs an interior or this could be a money pit that will cost 3 times the value of the boat just to make it float. Just curious.
Assuming the suction bolts (including the two hidden rearmost) are removed the jet should practically fall out , you might gently "ask" (pry) it to move backwards to disengage the splined yoke where it engages the pump shaft splines, the splines can be sticking also sometimes a suction is created by grease alone making it feel resistant ,if you need help dont hesitate to call Tom
I've ripped out most of the floor and stopped any other interior work until I've determined exactly what I am working with from a motor / pump perspective. This project could easily turn into a loose/loose project if both those are in bad shape. I am trying to do some basic investigation to see what I'm working with.
So far my spending for the project (besides the boat) has been cut off blades, some cleaning supplies, oil & filter, and a starter. I am going to keep those to a minmum until I get a better sense of the motor and pump.
Engine: I've pulled all the plugs, drained the oil, replaced the filter, and the engine spins nicely so that is a good sign. I've got a starter arriving today which should allow me to fire her over or at least do a compression test. The tank has been drained, fuel filter replaced, and I was also thinking of draining the bowl on the carb.
Pump: The impeller looks good from what I can tell so far. The pump needs to come out so I can address a crack/leak between the intake and the hull. There was water in the bilge that was dripping out there so I know it needs to be removed and reset. I figure while the pump is out I might as well check the clearance from the impeller to the WR and see what else should be looked at.
So that is my basic thinking.... I like the looks of the boat and think it will be fun but I am not going to totally rebuild the floor and then find out that engine and pump are both a disaster. Hopefully I'll have the pump on the bench tonight and I can also spin the engine for to see what kind of compression I am getting. I was given the infamous "It was bored 0.30 over and rebuild a while ago" but I am assuming nothing. It does look to have new brass freeze plugs in it but who knows.
I found a lot of posts saying not to run the pump (even hooked up to the hose) and since it needed to come out I've waited to test the motor.
Thanks for the info on the u-joint connection. I honestly only gave it a light tug before I quit for the night so hopefully it will come free without too much trouble.
If you look closely at the far left side of the picture of the shaft you can see the groove the snap ring fits in. There is another groove at the rear of the splines where a second snap ring resides. The forward snap ring holds the bearing on. Hope this helps.
Now that I know the U-Joint assembly stays with the motor I'm going to try to give her a gentle pry to see if the two will separate
As far as the two snaps rings go - I understand that the one on the left side of your pic holds the bearing on but what is the purpose of the snap ring that is just at the end of the splines? Maybe I'm missing something. I can see the one that holds the bearing on in this diagram
From left to right: Snap ring, Rear of ceramic seal pack, front of ceramic seal pack, bearing, bearing cap. What is missing is a thick flat thrust washer and a snap ring that goes between the bearing and bearing cap. The seal pack also breaks down into a coule more pieces but you get the point.
Last edited by Last Mohican; 08-29-2012 at 06:29 PM.
These way these pumps are designed they should be disassembled from back to front. In theory you should remove the bowl leaving the wear ring between the impeller and suction housing. Next use a puller to remove the impeller. Remove the bearing cap and pull the shaft out the front of the pump with the bearing and seal pack intact. Then the seal pack can be removed and the bearing pressed off. In reality it is never that easy. The wear ring is often stuck in the bowl and the impeller is can be tough to get off the shaft. IMO It is much easier to get the impeller off with a press than a puller. Kind of a catch 22. You need to get the shaft out to use a press on the impeller.
You have to use some ingenuity here to get it apart if you don't have a puller to remove the impeller. I will tell you I pushed mine apart from the front with the impeller still attached. Give me a call if you want more details. I sent you a PM with my number.
Last edited by Last Mohican; 08-29-2012 at 06:48 PM.
Kent the bearing shows obvious issues , the Impeller forward large OD (vane tips) look to exceed the forward edge of the wear ring and is beginning to "eat into" the suction housing , in short you have a significant wear issue (combination of wear between the impeller and wear ring) An effective repair will likley require a replacement Impeller and wear ring along with a basic rebuild kit Tom