18' Custom Marine build thread
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18' Custom Marine build thread

  1. #1
    I never hit bottom. 79Challenger's Avatar
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    Default 18' Custom Marine build thread

    I acquired this hull from where I work. It was going to be scraped. I offered the owner some money if he had a title for the boat and would include the trailer. He agreed and it came home the next day.

    Got it home and found several problems.

    1. Floor & bulkheads rotted to topsoil.
    2. Bow supports rotten.
    3. Berkeley E pump just siliconed in.

    After cleaning in out, 1st day home.

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    Floor removal and old 460 out.

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    Today I went all the way and cut out the old half rotten bulkhead and 5 garbage bags full of foam. The deck is pretty bouncy now!

    When I glass in a new bulkhead and deck support, do I really need to re-use foam? In my opinion, it just traps moisture. I remember seeing other peoples jets with swimming noodles stuffed up in the bow. Any opinions on this?

    I will update this thread as work progresses. Wont be to much this year as winter is right around the corner.

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  3. #2
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    no foam. make sure you leave a drain hole/gap at the bottom and on the sides where water could get trapped up front.

    my new bulkhead

    http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...17869436_o.jpg

    if you're gonna do all this work, its my suggestion to make it a full stringer boat. when i converted mine it rides SOOOO much better with full stringers. not to mention a full stringer boat is a more desireable hull in the long run. it'll also tie into the bulkhead and i have gunwale supports also tied into em as well that ties the whole boat together.
    Last edited by ka0tyk; 09-27-2012 at 05:12 PM.

  4. #3
    I never hit bottom. 79Challenger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka0tyk View Post
    no foam. make sure you leave a drain hole/gap at the bottom and on the sides where water could get trapped up front.

    my new bulkhead

    http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...17869436_o.jpg

    if you're gonna do all this work, its my suggestion to make it a full stringer boat. when i converted mine it rides SOOOO much better with full stringers. not to mention a full stringer boat is a more desireable hull in the long run. it'll also tie into the bulkhead and i have gunwale supports also tied into em as well that ties the whole boat together.
    Good point. I was thinking that actually. The current 1/4 stringers seem solid. Is it possible to just add onto the 1/4 stringers to make full stringers?

    Also, in the pic You posted of Your bulkhead, am I missing something, or is there no drain hole in the bottom?

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    Senior Member holorinhal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 79Challenger View Post
    Good point. I was thinking that actually. The current 1/4 stringers seem solid. Is it possible to just add onto the 1/4 stringers to make full stringers?

    Also, in the pic You posted of Your bulkhead, am I missing something, or is there no drain hole in the bottom?
    With the amount of grinding and prep that you are already faced with. it wouldnt be that much more work to to go ahead and cut those 1/4 stringers out and install solid one piece full stringers. If that is Your intention, I would not leave any old wood in there. But thats just me, I like grinding and itching from fiberglass work.

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    after that pic i drilled 3 1" holes, one in the middle and 1 on each side of the stringer and i epoxied in some brass sleeves along with 3 plugs to keep water out, and then i can pull them out to let water/moisture drain out theres also 3 gaps in the fiberglass up top so it can vent as well.

    my old 1/4 stringers were super solid and tied into the battery boxes in the rear and transom. i opted to keep those but i notched them and when i bedded the full stringers to the floor with a mixture of kitty hair, epoxy, and cabosil i slapped a bunch in there as well. with that alone they were solid and i could pick the boat up with them if i wanted to. after that i applied 3 layers of mat and called it a day. the difference in ride was night and day.



    then my engine mounts sandwiched the new and the old together as well...

    http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...80830846_o.jpg
    Last edited by ka0tyk; 09-27-2012 at 10:10 PM.

  8. #6
    I never hit bottom. 79Challenger's Avatar
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    Well, I figured I plan on keeping this for awhile, so might as well do it right. Cut out the old stringers today. The were surprisingly solid, but wet as a sponge. My plan on filling in the holes with dowels woulnt have worked as the epoxy wouldnt bond to the wet wood. Plus its nice to have a clean slate to work with.

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    Here is my daily question. I plan on going the full stringer route with a narrower sub floor between them. My old stringers curved down for the fuel tank. I plan on re-using this tank.

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    Anyone see any issues with cutting the stringers down to different heights, like in the diagram below?

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  9. #7
    I never hit bottom. 79Challenger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka0tyk View Post
    after that pic i drilled 3 1" holes, one in the middle and 1 on each side of the stringer and i epoxied in some brass sleeves along with 3 plugs to keep water out, and then i can pull them out to let water/moisture drain out theres also 3 gaps in the fiberglass up top so it can vent as well.

    my old 1/4 stringers were super solid and tied into the battery boxes in the rear and transom. i opted to keep those but i notched them and when i bedded the full stringers to the floor with a mixture of kitty hair, epoxy, and cabosil i slapped a bunch in there as well. with that alone they were solid and i could pick the boat up with them if i wanted to. after that i applied 3 layers of mat and called it a day. the difference in ride was night and day.



    then my engine mounts sandwiched the new and the old together as well...

    http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...80830846_o.jpg
    I'm liking that allot. Definitive doing the full stringer route. Thanks for the advice!

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    Senior Member Alter Ego's Avatar
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    If..."IF" its in the budget, I'd say toss the center mounted fuel tank, leave as much meat as possible on the stringers, and find some good used side tanks. I saw some used polished stainless tanks in the Spam section the other day. If those wont work, most of your local sheet metal shops can fab you up some rectangular side mounted tanks....just might not be coast gaurd approved. Cool project, keep the pics comin.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alter Ego View Post
    If..."IF" its in the budget, I'd say toss the center mounted fuel tank, leave as much meat as possible on the stringers, and find some good used side tanks. I saw some used polished stainless tanks in the Spam section the other day. If those wont work, most of your local sheet metal shops can fab you up some rectangular side mounted tanks....just might not be coast gaurd approved. Cool project, keep the pics comin.
    I agree! Make sure the side tanks you get are baffled.
    You are using 2x6's for your stringers? Your 4 1/2" is the reason I question it. Did you mean 5 1/2"?

  12. #10
    I never hit bottom. 79Challenger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ol Blue View Post
    I agree! Make sure the side tanks you get are baffled.
    You are using 2x6's for your stringers? Your 4 1/2" is the reason I question it. Did you mean 5 1/2"?
    I haven't made a decision on what I'm using yet. I'm all ears!

    I may have fudged the numbers on the stringers some. This is what came out, but like I said, whatever You guys think would be best.

    Where the engine used to mount.

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    Then it curved down for the fuel tank to this.

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    Maybe give Ya a better perspective on how it used to be. Not how it must be when rebuilt.

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    I guess i will scrap the original fuel tank and look for saddle tanks once I get to that point of the build.

  13. #11
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    tip: once you get everything spotless and clean and you start to measure your stringers, go to your local hardware store and buy foam insulation board. its not terribly expensive.

    http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/477361...foam_board.jpg

    it will be 50000x lighter and easier to work with as far as cutting and shaping. you have some pretty complex angles and curves going on in a boat. the shape front to back is round, and then you have the angle of the V hull itself that angles more towards the bow. i took a piece of wood front to back and measured every foot the depth of the hull 26" apart centered and transfered that to the foam. a couple cuts and some shaping with a rasp later i had a perfect fit within 1/16th of an inch. then i transfered that shape to the wood, shaved it down using a adjustable hand plane.

    http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...10296347_n.jpg

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