Pump upgrades on a gullwing
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Pump upgrades on a gullwing

  1. #1
    The Good mrjoshua's Avatar
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    Default Pump upgrades on a gullwing

    I have a heavier (2x6 stringers) 18' cp gullwing with a n/a 468 turning an aggressor b about 5350 rpm. I have a fuel issue I am chasing but once I have that fixed I have no intention of going further with the engine. I need to turn my attention to the pump since that's where I feel I can gain some better performance. Right now I have an dominator 12s with a Berk g bowl' droop, diverter, rideplate, loader and tapered shoe. The loader is just above keel and shoe is close. This is a family boat so not looking to have too much dragging low in the water to keep shut down a little more predictable. I'm looking to add an inducer, stuffer plate, a newer droop ( my old dominator is just a bit too big diameter to keep from blowing the nylon ring) and a squeeze on the diverter. I will also be adding a new bronze aggressor impellar from JBP.
    This boat already has a great hole shot and pulls skiers well (pulled two adults out on slalom from deep water no problem). I almost can get the outer strakes/sponsons lifted all the way out of the water at full speed. I know the blow by I'm getting at the nylon ring is costing me greatly, but what can I reasonably expect with the other mods with my power and set up? Can I afford to go to a b/c or even a c cut and maintain my holeshot with the other upgrades? Are any of these worth the $$$ or effort for my power.? Lots of wingers like mine out there. What are some great combos?

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  3. #2
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
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    You'll want to make sure the bottom of the boat is reasonably straight from the first strake to the intake to start, check the second strake also but it's less important. This stuff is important on a GW. I'd look into a back cut shoe setup with a few shims so you can play with some shoe depth settings, get your plate and thrust line height in the ballpark and a FTN setup in the diverter and a nice loader grate that isn't real restrictive and made from good materials and welded properly. As far as Jet-drive most of the performance river/lake guys are running a detailed impeller, most run a stainless version and making sure the clearances are where they should be is important. An inducer, we like the HCM style, an AQ shaft and detailed split bowl, stuffer also. That should get you where you need to be, anything more than that is usually just for a race specific boat. Double drilling usually starts at about 700-750 hp.
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    The Good mrjoshua's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cs19 View Post
    You'll want to make sure the bottom of the boat is reasonably straight from the first strake to the intake to start, check the second strake also but it's less important. This stuff is important on a GW. I'd look into a back cut shoe setup with a few shims so you can play with some shoe depth settings, get your plate and thrust line height in the ballpark and a FTN setup in the diverter and a nice loader grate that isn't real restrictive and made from good materials and welded properly. As far as Jet-drive most of the performance river/lake guys are running a detailed impeller, most run a stainless version and making sure the clearances are where they should be is important. An inducer, we like the HCM style, an AQ shaft and detailed split bowl, stuffer also. That should get you where you need to be, anything more than that is usually just for a race specific boat. Double drilling usually starts at about 700-750 hp.
    Thanks for response Chris. I know there are a few types of inducers. What are the differences? Do you have to shim between the impellar and inducer or just the inducer itself?

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    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
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    The differences are the OD of the hub in the center. The latest version has a very narrow hub but the OD of the blades is basically the same but with a smaller hub the blade is actually longer. I plan on taking some pics of this stuff this winter so everyone can see the differences.There are pitch changes also.

    There is no shimming involved, the inducer comes with a 17-4 stainless spacer, the only shimming that would take place is to set the height on your impeller for front and rear clearance.
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