Cracked suction housing
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Cracked suction housing

  1. #1
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Default Cracked suction housing

    I found what looks to be a small crack in the suction of my 12JG. It is hard to tell if it is just in the coating. This is on the port side only. Starboard side looks fine. No evidence of the crack on the inside. Is this a typical place for a crack to develop? Is it safe to use or should I start looking for a new suction housing. This is in my 21' Daytona with a full set back and basically stock 454.








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    Senior Member DuaneHTP's Avatar
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    Yep, That's where they usually break. Get rid of it and find a new one. I've seen people try to weld them and they usually get the bearing out of alignment from the heat distrotion. The Dominator suction housing is a lot stronger in that area and they will interchange.

    Duane HTP

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    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
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    not disagreeing with duane. but before i junked it, i'd get a bunch of that hi-tech stuff they call sandpaper, sand it down to bare metal and d/p it to be sure. especially if i can't see daylight through the other side.

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    Senior Member zacho!'s Avatar
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    Not disagreeing with anyone, but thats where mine broke many years ago before i had ever pulled it out of the boat. When I dug into it - it had been welded and broke a half inch or so above the repair. Damn near sunk the boat, happened right after hitting a good sized wake and hitting the water at idle.

  7. #5
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    I'm convinced. The hunt begins.

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    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Last Mohican View Post
    I'm convinced. The hunt begins.
    post how much you find one for , i am curious. i have two spares but i only need one / the funny thing is that the older one i have is thicker it seems, i dont know if the metal is better & its thicker which would be good ,or if the older one which is not as good as the new one. ..so i am gonna keep both untill i find out. ...... oh i know one that is at a race shop in sacramento for sale, $300 something 325-350 can't remember, but it is new, unfortunately it is older new meaning it has been probably getting scuffed up in a garrage for a while & was spray canned but never used.

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    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
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    Welding cast aluminum is a bandaid. It may hold, but for how long is the question.
    Replace
    $.02

  10. #8
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Just to be clear, I never considered welding it. IMO If there is one part that can quickly sink a jet it is the suction housing.

  11. #9
    Led
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    In total agreement, sand it down see what you really have, IF YOU DONT LIKE WHAT YOU SEE, for a few hundred bucks you can have another suction and sleep at night with your boat dry on the inside.

    Seen them bust on the water, turns a good time into total chaos

  12. #10
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Performed a DP test today. I sanded it down, cleaned it with the cleaner, sprayed it with penetrant. I let that sit for 15 minutes. I sprayed cleaner on a clean towel and wiped the excess dye off in one pass. Sprayed the developer and the pics below show the results. Much to my surprise the larger crack on the foot of the rope seal housing appears to have been 100% in the powder coat and not the casting. The foot of the bearing housing shows some porosity but I am not convinced there is a crack there. Comments????

    Sanded


    Dyed


    Developed





  13. #11
    custom member raped southwind's Avatar
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    looks good to go to me.

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    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
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    run it

  15. #13
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
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    My first thought was just the powdercoat or paint.

    The crack by the packing clamp is not normal, the one by the bearing gusset is but you dont have the horsepower to be cracking the suction like that.

    You did the right thing, your good. Run it.
    B1Racing.net

  16. #14
    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
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    i just painted my pump & there are parts where it has paint that would not come off with paint remover & after sanding it had a raise area in about the same spots as your concerned area. if you look close it is very smooth & shiny above the so called crack area & below it is poarse....the hard to get area never got stipped all the way & left a raise paint edge is what it looks like to me. either way no crack!!!! rock & roll!

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