Fuel filter and mechanical pump
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 16

Thread:
Fuel filter and mechanical pump

  1. #1
    Member mcgradypilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    32

    Default Fuel filter and mechanical pump

    When I pulled the Olds out of my sleekcraft I discovered an fuel/water separator hiding down in the bilge area. It has been disconnected. I wanted to get your guys opinions. Should I clean it out and get a new filter and use it or should I trash it? If I do decide to run it will my engine mounted fuel pump drive it or do I need an electric pump? Thanks.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member hihosilver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    bullhead city
    Posts
    500

    Default

    it should work just fine, only issues would be after sitting you will need a good battery tosuck up the fuel or prime it so it starts

  4. #3
    Member mcgradypilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    32

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by hihosilver View Post
    it should work just fine, only issues would be after sitting you will need a good battery tosuck up the fuel or prime it so it starts
    Thankfully someone installed a dual battery set up! :-) Whoever owned this boat before the idiot that I bought I from set it up correctly. The guy I bought it from ran it with the water valve open all the way then couldn't figure out why he was getting water in the oil.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Senior Member larryfknrocks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    577

    Default

    I use a separator on mine with a mechanical fuel pump. When you install the filter, make sure you add a little fuel into the canister so it'll prime the system faster.

  7. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Newbury Park, Ca/Mohave Valley, Az
    Posts
    8,169

    Default Not why....

    Quote Originally Posted by mcgradypilot View Post
    Thankfully someone installed a dual battery set up! :-) Whoever owned this boat before the idiot that I bought I from set it up correctly. The guy I bought it from ran it with the water valve open all the way then couldn't figure out why he was getting water in the oil.
    That is the correct way to run it... The water in the oil came from a gasket failure, (most likely), and closing the valve down to regulate the water flow will likely cause the same problem when the heads crack.... If you feel there is too much water pressure increase the exit flow, (additional dumps).... In 35 + years I've never ran a jet without the gate valve off the jet WIDE OPEN, and I've never had any water in the oil issues. That applies to BBC and BBO engines in at least a dozen different boats that I owned, and at least another dozen or so I've built/rigged for other owners....
    Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

  8. #6
    Member mcgradypilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    32

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit View Post
    \ In 35 + years I've never ran a jet without the gate valve off the jet WIDE OPEN, and I've never had any water in the oil issues. That applies to BBC and BBO engines in at least a dozen different boats that I owned, and at least another dozen or so I've built/rigged for other owners....
    Ray
    I hope you dont mean wide open valve running straight to the engine without a pressure regulator. My boat doesnt have any pressure regulators.

  9. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Newbury Park, Ca/Mohave Valley, Az
    Posts
    8,169

    Default Exactly

    Quote Originally Posted by mcgradypilot View Post
    I hope you dont mean wide open valve running straight to the engine without a pressure regulator. My boat doesnt have any pressure regulators.
    That is exactly what I mean.... I've never used a pressure regulator, or ANY type of restriction coming from the pump unless I'm running the boat on the trailer and need the garden hose pressure going into the engine.... For that operation I will close the gate valve down almost all the way, but still allow some water to enter the pump.... If you restrict the "IN" side of the water flow to the engine you MAY create steam pockets in the cavities of the block and heads, and they WILL crack if, and when, the cold water finally pushes the steam out and hits those very hot spots... Like I said, if you're worried about too much pressure add extra dumps from the engine straight overboard.... Use quality gaskets on the heads and intake, quality head fasteners properly torqued, add silicone sealer to the critical areas around water passages from the block to the heads, and from the heads to the intake.
    Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

  10. #8
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Atascadero Calif
    Posts
    7,464

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mcgradypilot View Post
    I hope you dont mean wide open valve running straight to the engine without a pressure regulator. My boat doesnt have any pressure regulators.
    Personally not a fan of water seperators at all , run the smallest most efficiant inline filter(s) you can , if you fuel sources (tanks ,line etc) are clean, your fuel available supply is fresh and uncontaminated and your caps and vents are properly installed you should never have a water or signifcant moisture in your fuel anyway , re the ongoing water ball gate valve question , many of these boats were rigged without one (at the jet supply line) and ran for years without problems , the best function of a inlet ball or gate valve IMO is a "failsafe " shutoff in the event you blow off a line to keep your craft from sinking, we do advocate, install and run water regulators, as well as a saftey mechanism



  11. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OC, CA
    Posts
    359

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mcgradypilot View Post
    I hope you dont mean wide open valve running straight to the engine without a pressure regulator. My boat doesnt have any pressure regulators.
    Rember this is a forum and your going to get different opinions and experiance over the years. I personally haven't ran a regulator on any of my boats over the years, but have always had a gate valve at the pump to reduce the water pressure going into the engine.

  12. #10
    Senior Member SBS933's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socialist Republic of California / Parker Az.
    Posts
    975

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ol Blue View Post
    Rember this is a forum and your going to get different opinions and experiance over the years. I personally haven't ran a regulator on any of my boats over the years, but have always had a gate valve at the pump to reduce the water pressure going into the engine.
    Pressure is pressure and flow is flow, the only way to reduce pressure is with a regulator. If you closed the gate valve and drilled a small hole in the gate you would still deliver the same pressure, with a reduced flow.

  13. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    OC, CA
    Posts
    359

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SBS933 View Post
    Pressure is pressure and flow is flow, the only way to reduce pressure is with a regulator. If you closed the gate valve and drilled a small hole in the gate you would still deliver the same pressure, with a reduced flow.
    Not going to get into a debate and not a hydrodynimics expert, but have always been able to find the right adjustment with a gate valve for the engine temp at idle and high RPM. Pressure regulator off a T from the main line is a good option.

  14. #12
    Senior Member SBS933's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Socialist Republic of California / Parker Az.
    Posts
    975

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ol Blue View Post
    Not going to get into a debate and not a hydrodynimics expert, but have always been able to find the right adjustment with a gate valve for the engine temp at idle and high RPM. Pressure regulator off a T from the main line is a good option.
    I have never used a reg. either, I open my gate valve 3 turns for flow. It works good too.

  15. #13
    Senior Member SoldHondaBoughtHondo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Lake Havasu az.
    Posts
    4,318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mcgradypilot View Post
    When I pulled the Olds out of my sleekcraft I discovered an fuel/water separator hiding down in the bilge area. It has been disconnected. I wanted to get your guys opinions. Should I clean it out and get a new filter and use it or should I trash it? If I do decide to run it will my engine mounted fuel pump drive it or do I need an electric pump? Thanks.
    Stock (aftermarket) mechanical pump and basic 3/8 fuel filter is fine as long as the tanks are clean.
    "A liberal paradise would be a place where everybody has
    guaranteed employment, free comprehensive healthcare, free
    education, free food, free housing, free clothing, free
    utilities, and only law enforcement has guns. And believe it or
    not, such a place does, indeed, exist: It's called prison."

    Sheriff Joe Arpaio
    Maricopa County Sheriff's Office

  16. #14
    Senior Member ICECREAMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    2,426

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit View Post
    That is the correct way to run it... The water in the oil came from a gasket failure, (most likely), and closing the valve down to regulate the water flow will likely cause the same problem when the heads crack.... If you feel there is too much water pressure increase the exit flow, (additional dumps).... In 35 + years I've never ran a jet without the gate valve off the jet WIDE OPEN, and I've never had any water in the oil issues. That applies to BBC and BBO engines in at least a dozen different boats that I owned, and at least another dozen or so I've built/rigged for other owners....
    Ray
    Quote Originally Posted by SBS933 View Post
    Pressure is pressure and flow is flow, the only way to reduce pressure is with a regulator. If you closed the gate valve and drilled a small hole in the gate you would still deliver the same pressure, with a reduced flow.

    Not to argue with you SBS933, but the way Ray is explaining is the way I and many others plumb the cooling system and use multiple exits to reduce pressure. ON my boat I have the standard -8 line coming in from the pump that breaks into multiple exits, 2) -10 and 1) -8. My boat at 5000 rpm is 12psi measured at the inlet in the front of the motor (water pump inlet ports).

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95