Holes in Eliminator Daytona ?? long
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 16

Thread:
Holes in Eliminator Daytona ?? long

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    436

    Default Holes in Eliminator Daytona ?? long

    While I was swimming I noticed three holes on the top wet side of the drivers tunnel directly in front of where the drivers seat is on my 85 daytona. There is a fire extinguisher mounted to the top of the tunnel that looks like uses two of the three bolts that can be seen frum under the boat. Surely Eliminator wouldn't have drilled holes in the tunnel to mount a fire extinguisher?? I've been wanting to mount the extinguisher some where different since I bought the boat. Other than bolts what is the best easy to fix the three holes? The third hole looks like the bolt has been cut off from the tip side where it goes through the wood inlay.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    No Sandbar To Far sanger rat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    3,276

    Default

    Sanger did the same thing with my seats. Put some tape on the bottom and fill the holes with some fiberglass resin.
    Quote Originally Posted by One More Year View Post
    The only blab's I will even be a part of is just when it is me they are talking about. Aaaah yes I can see a few good looking shiny tall deck motors on the beach, with barely enough fuel to get back to the launch saying, "Holy crap how fast you think that Daytona was going man? That's like the 20th time he's gone by today?"

  4. #3
    TRG
    TRG is offline
    Senior Member TRG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,717

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jungledave View Post
    While I was swimming I noticed three holes on the top wet side of the drivers tunnel directly in front of where the drivers seat is on my 85 daytona. There is a fire extinguisher mounted to the top of the tunnel that looks like uses two of the three bolts that can be seen frum under the boat. Surely Eliminator wouldn't have drilled holes in the tunnel to mount a fire extinguisher?? I've been wanting to mount the extinguisher some where different since I bought the boat. Other than bolts what is the best easy to fix the three holes? The third hole looks like the bolt has been cut off from the tip side where it goes through the wood inlay.
    What size Daytona is your hull?...im guessing it is a 19 considering you are in the jets section?
    you would most definitly want to seal it before moisture get to your balsa or wood in the top of the tunnells, i reccoment grinding and glassing, and a finish with Gel coat, but you should be fine with a marine-tex or sea going putty, is there any discoloration in your floors?? (Just in front of your seat) if so the damage might already be done, and you should handle the repair as soon as possible, delam in a boat is not good considering its the Hull that you family enjoys riding in and moisture between laminates can eventually get out of controll, and cost a pretty penny to repair!
    Just my 2 cents!
    Todd

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Artesia, N.M.
    Posts
    5,291

    Default

    how about using wood screws to attach the seats to the stringers thats correct straight thru the seat base
    right into the stringer, no silicon, no resin no nada..
    at least they were stainless.

  7. #5
    Senior Member Need4Speed77's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Q.C./Big River
    Posts
    1,885

    Default

    Marine-Tex works great for small repairs. It is sandable so you can touch it up and is pretty much a permanent fix as long as you do the proper prep to the area. Make sure you sand with an aggressive grit to create tooth and clean well with acetone to get rid of any oils or residue. Then apply and sand to a smooth finish. I did this on my old boat and ran it for 2 years with no issues. It worked great!

  8. #6
    Senior Member Fonz69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Frozen Tundra, WI
    Posts
    621

    Default

    Dave, thats where the factory place diverter was mounted

    I moved over to the side cause when you shifted it up you would hit your hand on the bottom of the dash

    Fire extinguisher fit there and was a quick access in case of problems, (which on a boat you do not have much time to put out a fire)

    Hows the boat runnin?

    I do miss her.

    Trying like crazy to get my vette project done by August

  9. #7
    Highaboosta Unchained's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Ada, Michigan
    Posts
    3,431

    Default

    I like West System epoxy for any fiberglass work.
    It adheres to 85% of original strength where fiberglass resin is only 60%.
    It is easy to work with and dries real shiny and smooth.

    Flare out the hole top and bottom and put tape or wax paper across the bottom.
    Pour the epoxy in from the top and it will work fine.
    If the hole is large I like to mash up some fiberglass mat, stuff it in with the resin, and mix it around with a small stick to get it saturated real good.

    Twin Turbo 1800 HP V-Drive lake boat

    http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=MAH05771.mp4

    Quote Originally Posted by Trigger View Post
    No one cares about your buddies old antiquated garden hose technology.
    Quote Originally Posted by MAXIMUS View Post
    I think I could run more boost but it's a real hand full right now

  10. #8
    Half a bubble off jrork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Silverdale, Washington
    Posts
    2,467

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Unchained View Post
    I like West System epoxy for any fiberglass work.
    It adheres to 85% of original strength where fiberglass resin is only 60%.
    It is easy to work with and dries real shiny and smooth.
    One more for West Systems though I've never used the other products Todd mentioned. Another nice thing about the WS products are that they are tintable and they have a fantastic website with tricks and tech info.

    Good luck regardless on what you use and post up some pics.....john

  11. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    436

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by toddnjuzz View Post
    What size Daytona is your hull?...im guessing it is a 19 considering you are in the jets section?
    you would most definitly want to seal it before moisture get to your balsa or wood in the top of the tunnells, i reccoment grinding and glassing, and a finish with Gel coat, but you should be fine with a marine-tex or sea going putty, is there any discoloration in your floors?? (Just in front of your seat) if so the damage might already be done, and you should handle the repair as soon as possible, delam in a boat is not good considering its the Hull that you family enjoys riding in and moisture between laminates can eventually get out of controll, and cost a pretty penny to repair!
    Just my 2 cents!
    Todd
    Its a light layup 21No sign of leaking and the boat is in near new condition. Its a damned nice boat. I was just surprised to see the bolt heads under the boat. The previous owner went through the trouble of removing all the fuel tank bolts and slick coating the back of the boat. The seats use the normal brackets. The holes have bolts through them with factory anodized conical washers on the water side of the tunnel. Maybe thats where Eliminator mounted the original diverter control. the problem is going to be getting the boat jacked up far enough to remove the bolts since they go from the bottom up and even if I cut them off they will still be a inch or so long and have to come out of the bottom. Thanks for the tips.

  12. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    436

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jrork View Post
    One more for West Systems though I've never used the other products Todd mentioned. Another nice thing about the WS products are that they are tintable and they have a fantastic website with tricks and tech info.

    Good luck regardless on what you use and post up some pics.....john
    I've only had it to the lake ten times and taken a hundred pics so I should have had it on here a bunch of times I'll see What I can do.

  13. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    436

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    how about using wood screws to attach the seats to the stringers thats correct straight thru the seat base
    right into the stringer, no silicon, no resin no nada..
    at least they were stainless.
    the seats are atatched to the stringers so I don't know whay there would be three hole one foot in front of the seat directly below the steering wheel.

  14. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    436

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fonz69 View Post
    Dave, thats where the factory place diverter was mountedHey
    I moved over to the side cause when you shifted it up you would hit your hand on the bottom of the dash

    Fire extinguisher fit there and was a quick access in case of problems, (which on a boat you do not have much time to put out a fire)

    Hows the boat runnin?

    I do miss her.

    Trying like crazy to get my vette project done by August
    Hey Jason thanks for the input. I was surprised to see the bolts I will have to do something because the back washer is loose. The boat is doing great, still trying to quiet it down since I left the baffles in the lake. I am having a pretty good time with the jet skis. They love the roost. The pump is amazing since I use half the fuel that I did last year with the same motor and cruises 20 mph faster at the same RPM. Did you get the pics I sent about three weeks ago??

  15. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    436

    Default

    Oh yea I don't have a clue how to post pics on this sight.

  16. #14
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Artesia, N.M.
    Posts
    5,291

    Default

    are the pics hosted on the net somewhere?
    if not import them into the (you shot it ) tab above
    then once you have the size of the pic you want to post(usually medium) right click on it then copy the properties of the url
    then type [img] then paste the properties of the url followed by
    [/img]

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95