-Intake setting tips, tricks and advice-
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-Intake setting tips, tricks and advice-

  1. #1
    Senior Member isanger's Avatar
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    Default -Intake setting tips, tricks and advice-

    In preparation of setting the intake in my ol' mans 21' daytona, I did a few searches and came up empty looking for any tips or tricks. To some it may be a simple job, but to others who haven't done it before (myself included) it may be an intimidating task. The boat has never had an intake in it so I want it to be right the first time.

    If you have any tip, tricks or advice.... from stock to billet low profile, setbacks to stock location. POST UP!

    Photos would be great!

    Ian

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    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
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    Only thing I'll ad is you'll definitely want a digital level. The pros will be along to answer the rest

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    Senior Member ICECREAMAN's Avatar
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    I have no idea if this is the way the professionals do it but I'll share how I did it. Make sure boat is level front to back and side to side in the bilge area. I made a center line down the keel of the boat. I made a center line down the center of the intake. A string line works good to measure center line. Obviously, this is to center the intake to the hull. I installed bolts in the 4 threaded corner holes of the intake top down to use as pedestals to level and adjust the intake to the proper degree. I took the intake in and out a couple of times, resting on the pedestals, to make sure my readings were repeatable. Once it sat where I wanted it, I masked the bilge around the intake, mixed the putty, applied it to the sealing surface, and set the intake in the putty. Double check your measurements, make sure there's no voids in the putty, weight it down, and let it dry compete. Sorry, I can't find pic's, I know we took some, but they seem to have vanished. Good luck.

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    We were actually setting an intake in our SST tunnel project yesterday when your Pops called to order epoxy kit and such , after expaining the process to him I created a tutorial/pictoral to help you folks may take a while to put together .. Tom

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    Senior Member holorinhal's Avatar
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    Ian, I am by no means a profesional, but You can take a look at the Kona thread. Starting on page 7, there is a pretty detailed explination of the process that I used, as explained to me by Jack Mclure. I followed his direction step by step. http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-...uild-ii-7.html

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    Senior Member isanger's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! I appreciate the pointers.

    What is the anchor point at which to start all of the adjustment?
    -Biting edge of shoe depth in relation to keel (with no shims)?
    -smooth transition from keel into front of the intake?

    Ian

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    Senior Member isanger's Avatar
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    Hal, your write up on the Kona thread helped calm the nerves a ton! Thank you for taking the time on all of your builds to document for the rest of us! Great work.

    Ian

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    Senior Member holorinhal's Avatar
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    Ian, are you doing a full setback? I am not sure with a tunnel keels, but when doing an intake on a v-bottom, we use a staight edge on the keel. The intake at the front rounded part should be flush or slightly higher than the keel ( no more than 1/16" max). Staight edge along keel to the rear of the shoe pad, with no shims installed. The bitting edge of the shoe should be in the same plane as the keel. Once you have it mocked up, put a digital angle finder on the keel and zero it out, then place the angle finder on the suction mounting pad and the readind should be realativly close to the built in angle of the intake. You can then adjust slightly with the adjuster bolts on the front of the intake.
    If not a full set back, then you may have to deal with releving the bottom of the keel to clearance the rideplate. In that case you may have to build up some glass on the inside, to have enough material to remove on the bottom. Like said, i am not sure if the same principles aply to a tunnel. On the v bottoms, all the center line measurements and horizontal measurements are taken from the strakes.
    Here are some tutorial pics and scetch that jack had sent me. Sorry but I can not seem to find the verbage that went with the pictures. You can see in the pics with the number 3 and 4, the straight edge along the keel.

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    Last edited by holorinhal; 02-10-2013 at 12:23 PM.

    I'm not here for a long time, I'm just here for a good time!
    If your not on the edge.......your taking up too much room......Drive it like you stole it!

    73 KONA Restoration http://www.performanceboats.com//showthread.php?t=10678
    '81 Spectra 20 Facelift http://www.performanceboats.com/user...-facelift.html

    18' Advantage http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-...k-project.html

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    Senior Member isanger's Avatar
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    Yes Hal, Full setback with hand hole clear of transom. Thanks for the ideas! This upcoming weekend should be fun! Finally some progress on the daytona!

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    Quote Originally Posted by isanger View Post
    Yes Hal, Full setback with hand hole clear of transom. Thanks for the ideas! This upcoming weekend should be fun! Finally some progress on the daytona!
    Not sure of your H.P. 5 degree is a great all around setting for your hull. Dan Nelson Jett Perf has a billet which includes all the later mods Tom Papp and I applied as we refined the short intake for performance. He has already built some very strong charging boats with his new intake. Its billet so bucks may be high- Unit also has a wide range on mouth opening settings as it has a high load rate. Good Luck and Running.

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    Senior Member isanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Not sure of your H.P. 5 degree is a great all around setting for your hull. Dan Nelson Jett Perf has a billet which includes all the later mods Tom Papp and I applied as we refined the short intake for performance. He has already built some very strong charging boats with his new intake. Its billet so bucks may be high- Unit also has a wide range on mouth opening settings as it has a high load rate. Good Luck and Running.
    Thanks for the Info Pops. We are using a Std 4* Berk intake. I'm sure there are gains to be had with a lo pro and all that jazz, but my parents will be more interested in a perfect riding and handling 70mph cruise than a legged out top speed. The boat is a light 21' daytona with conservative power.

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    Senior Member 67weiman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICECREAMAN:1894698
    Make sure boat is level front to back and side to side in the bilge area.
    No expert either but, isn't the outside of the boat, keel, more important to be level then the bilge? The bilge doesn't affect the boat in any way? Am I wrong?

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    Senior Member isanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67weiman View Post
    No expert either but, isn't the outside of the boat, keel, more important to be level then the bilge? The bilge doesn't affect the boat in any way? Am I wrong?
    Pretty sure you're right on the money with that one bud. I've been told numerous times to make all of your measurements from the bottom of boat, outside, rather than from inside the boat.

  16. #14
    Senior Member ICECREAMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by isanger View Post
    Pretty sure you're right on the money with that one bud. I've been told numerous times to make all of your measurements from the bottom of boat, outside, rather than from inside the boat.
    I was referencing the area of the boat. When you try to level something with as many curves as a boat has, I was just using bilge as an area of the boat, not necessarily in the bilge or under the boat. Since the intake is in the bilge that was the target area. But, I don't know how you could level the bilge with out the keel being level as well. I would pull measurements for lay out purposes from the bottom like Hal has diagrammed absolutely. Good luck with it, looks like you've got a good grasp of the job.
    Last edited by ICECREAMAN; 02-11-2013 at 07:15 PM.

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