Post pics of trailer setups
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Post pics of trailer setups

  1. #1
    Swollen Member Wasted Income's Avatar
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    Default Post pics of trailer setups

    Hey all, I'm having a problem with loading my boat on the trailer. It seems that most of the ramps around here are pretty steep, and when I attempt to load the boat on the trailer, it noses under the bow-stop/winch area.
    I've seen some trailers that have no winch, but a single steel bar that hooks to the bow eye.

    Can you guys post up pics of how the bow of your boat is secured to the trailer? I'm looking for ideas to re-vamp mine. I've got a welder, a grinder and a sawzall, and I ain't skeerd to start cutting

    Thanks all.

    Here's a pic of the current setup.


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    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
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    Wasted welcome and it looks like your from my state AR. Tell me how deep you are taking the trailor back into the water? That makes a whole lot of difference in loading! WT

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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    With my daytona I have to back in a few feet more than is necessary to clear the trailer itself, If that made any sense. If I just sink the fenders mine does the same thing.(dives under the roller/winch set up).
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
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    Here is mine almost like yours! WT[IMG][/IMG]

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    Don't be scaired to copy these exactly...




    You'll notice the top one has a longer bar than the other one. IMO the longer the better. On steep ramps with the shorter bar the nose of the boat will lift up until it digs into the hull (hence the strap holding the bar down). I know these aren't the prettiest "pieces" but I wanted you to see the difference in bar lengths and the effects of the length of the bar.

    You can also copy these anti-flotation fenders!


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    Last edited by hotrod56cars; 07-10-2008 at 12:26 PM. Reason: typo

  8. #6
    Swollen Member Wasted Income's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Widetrack View Post
    Wasted welcome and it looks like your from my state AR. Tell me how deep you are taking the trailor back into the water? That makes a whole lot of difference in loading! WT
    Thanks for the welcome WT!
    I don't actually live in AR, but I bought this boat from down there earlier this year. I'm actually in Central Illinois.

    When I back the trailer in, I usually have maybe a foot or so of the front of the bunks sticking out of the water. Should I back it in less? I can see how that would make a difference (to get on the bunks sooner, and just power-load it.)

    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    With my daytona I have to back in a few feet more than is necessary to clear the trailer itself, If that made any sense. If I just sink the fenders mine does the same thing.(dives under the roller/winch set up).
    Thanks for the input, I think I'm going to experiment with launch depth this weekend.
    Quote Originally Posted by Widetrack View Post
    Here is mine almost like yours! WT
    That's a sweet looking rig! I like it a lot!

    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod56cars View Post
    Don't be scaired to copy these exactly...



    You'll notice the top one has a longer bar than the other one. IMO the longer the better. On steep ramps with the shorter bar the nose of the boat will lift up until it digs into the hull (hence the strap holding the bar down). I know these aren't the prettiest "pieces" but I wanted you to see the difference in bar lengths and the effects of the length of the bar.

    You can also copy these anti-flotation fenders!

    Thanks for the pics, HotRod! Yeah, it makes sense to me about the bar length. It would be harder for the rod to "flip over" backwards with a longer bar, and you're applying the force at a straighter angle.

  9. #7
    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
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    Look at my pic. it is about the right depth to load! I have tried this and it works very good. I have found when backing the trailer in to far the boat is above the winch and v-stop espicaly on a steep ramp. You will have to play with the depth for your rig. I look at the bunks at thr rear of the trailor and sink them about 1 to 2 feet to start out. It will take a little power!! Then if you need more add to it! The front of the boat needs to hit the bunks and ride up to the v-stop to lift the front inline! I have done this with 4 different boats of this style! Once you find that sweet spot markit in your mind with the frame,fender,light,or whatever you can find! I hope this helps before you cut,grind,weld,ETC. WT

    What hull is your boat?

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Swollen Member Wasted Income's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! I tried sinking the trailer a little less this weekend and it worked very well both times! I think it may just be alright the way it is, I just need to get used to it (I've only had this boat wet a handful of times).

    WT, it's a Cee Bee Avenger hull. 1975.

  12. #10
    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
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    That is great news it does take a little time to work the bugs out! LOL! Neat rig too! WT

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    Swollen Member Wasted Income's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot, WT I like the way it sits in the water, too.


  14. #12
    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Dude are you a cop/highway patrol? The shades gave it away. J/K thats interesting the bow was going under the wheel/crank dealio and to fix it you didn't back the trailer in as far? HMM mines doing the same thing and I have to back up5 or 6 feet more to sink it all past my bow. Maybe next time I'll try leaving mine shallower(sp?)
    Another Hot Boat refugee

  15. #13
    Swollen Member Wasted Income's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    Dude are you a cop/highway patrol? The shades gave it away. J/K thats interesting the bow was going under the wheel/crank dealio and to fix it you didn't back the trailer in as far? HMM mines doing the same thing and I have to back up5 or 6 feet more to sink it all past my bow. Maybe next time I'll try leaving mine shallower(sp?)
    Nope, mechanical engineer.

    Here's my process:
    -Sink the bunks all the way to get the carpet completely wet to allow easier loading.
    -Pull it out until the center (forwardmost) bunks are sticking out of the water maybe 2 feet.
    -Slowly pull the boat up to the trailer and let the bunks that are out of the water force the bow up over the bow-stop.
    -Sometimes I move the diverter so it's pointing up, and goose it a little to force the bow up the little bit extra that I need.

    Worked great twice for me last weekend, but I wasn't at my normal ramp. I'll report back after this weekend and see if it is still working for me.

  16. #14
    lol, right..... Devilman's Avatar
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    Sounds like you got it handled.... Nice boat by the way....

    I had to do the same thing, try a couple of different depths to get it on & off the trailer without snagging the bow eye on that top roller/bow stop. Usually a little more than the tops of the tires sticking out of the water is just about right on mine, my Avenger is sitting on a single axle though.


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