Exhaust flapper missing....
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Exhaust flapper missing....

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    Member Stocky's Avatar
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    Default Exhaust flapper missing....

    Hey guys. Have a 74 cheetah with a 454 in it. Has glenwood log manifolds and water risers through the transom. Yesterday I checked the oil level and noticed it was milky. First thing I thought he's gaskets or worse, block issue... So as I was check things and draining the oil I was walking back to the driveway when I noticed one of my exhaust flapper was completely gone! Could this be a possible reason for milky oil!? Thank you.

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    Senior Member larryfknrocks's Avatar
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    This is a very possible reason. Reversion may have happened although I'm not familiar with logs as I am with OT headers. Just drain the oil and replace the filter, run it and you should be fine. But I'd definitely want to get a replacement flapper

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    Boss of the McIntyre Mob danhercules's Avatar
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    Do you beach it much? That can force water up the exahust.


    Very first TPR 21' Deck. 528 BBF 736hp on pump gas built by High Flow Dynamics

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    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    I went a few years with both mine off...I keep it double anchored and in the flow of the river, nose pointed against the direction.
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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stocky View Post
    Hey guys. Have a 74 cheetah with a 454 in it. Has glenwood log manifolds and water risers through the transom. Yesterday I checked the oil level and noticed it was milky. First thing I thought he's gaskets or worse, block issue... So as I was check things and draining the oil I was walking back to the driveway when I noticed one of my exhaust flapper was completely gone! Could this be a possible reason for milky oil!? Thank you.
    Fresh motor ? Big Cam ? Have or did you run it on the garden hose recently ?

  8. #6
    Member Stocky's Avatar
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    Not a big cam but a crane cam and valve train, ive had the boat out 8-10 times this year without a problem. I ran it on the hose today after changing the oil. Made a temporary exhaust flap and took it out. Oil is still clear and didnt "make an oil" ran iit for about an hour total. No cooling issues, block didnt feel hot to the touch. Ran smooth, didnt notice any lack of power. So I'm hoping it was just that flapper!! :fingers crossed:

  9. #7
    Boss of the McIntyre Mob danhercules's Avatar
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    Good luck.


    Very first TPR 21' Deck. 528 BBF 736hp on pump gas built by High Flow Dynamics

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stocky View Post
    Not a big cam but a crane cam and valve train, ive had the boat out 8-10 times this year without a problem. I ran it on the hose today after changing the oil. Made a temporary exhaust flap and took it out. Oil is still clear and didnt "make an oil" ran iit for about an hour total. No cooling issues, block didnt feel hot to the touch. Ran smooth, didnt notice any lack of power. So I'm hoping it was just that flapper!! :fingers crossed:
    Flapper Replacement and retry IMO base in this Tom

  11. #9
    Member Stocky's Avatar
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    I ordered the replacement flapper. Still have the temporary one on their I made, had it out again tonight, oil is still clear.

    Second question cooling related now. I have a valve the controls water flow that comes off the pump, tees and goes into each manifold, from the manifolds to the water divider on the top of the motor, comes over the front and into the end of the manifolds before the risers. Theater temp reads from right by the water divider. I run 100-120° how hot should those manifolds and risers get? Hot to the touch? Ill let the the engine run for a minute before shutting it off just the cycle some water. The manifolds and riser are hot to the touch. normal?

  12. #10
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stocky View Post
    I ordered the replacement flapper. Still have the temporary one on their I made, had it out again tonight, oil is still clear.

    Second question cooling related now. I have a valve the controls water flow that comes off the pump, tees and goes into each manifold, from the manifolds to the water divider on the top of the motor, comes over the front and into the end of the manifolds before the risers. Theater temp reads from right by the water divider. I run 100-120° how hot should those manifolds and risers get? Hot to the touch? Ill let the the engine run for a minute before shutting it off just the cycle some water. The manifolds and riser are hot to the touch. normal?
    Some thing doesn't make sense (your comings and goings) might be just my reading .. The water travels from the jet drive which is basically your "water pump" and either goes directly to the block (low where the circulating water pump was ) water flow always exits high from the intake manifold having made its way upward thru the motor and back out to the "lake" ,The flow can either go thru the exaust first to the block (hot water method) and the into the engine or directly into the engine (cold water) and out to the exaust The Snail rizers always get exit water last .. yes manifolds will be hot to touch and your temp sounds about right regardless


  13. #11
    Senior Member Quit Yer Bitchin's Avatar
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    After T 'ing off from the jet, water should enter exhaust manifolds first. Exit exhaust manifolds and enter the engine at the water pump block off plate. Water will exit the engine at the thermostat block off on top and then go to the exhaust snails where it will be returned to the lake.

  14. #12
    Member Stocky's Avatar
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    Here are some pictures of the setup. Hooked up the same on both sides.
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    Member Stocky's Avatar
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    Also do you guys run water psi gauges on the intake mani by the divider? Or inline? Or any at all to insure water flow?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stocky View Post
    Also do you guys run water psi gauges on the intake mani by the divider? Or inline? Or any at all to insure water flow?
    I sometimes run a temporary pressure guage off the intake manifold near the exit point just to make sure I have a reasonable setting on my bypass valve. I added the bypass after milkshaking the oil by having too much pressure and leaking H2O between the intake manifold and the head. I was surprised how much pressure the jet can output at high RPMs. Your picture appears to show the water being routed from the exhaust manifold to the intak manifold outlet. That's different than the diagram above and my setup. I think you always want the water inlet low and the exit high to avoid air pockets. Mine is setup like the picture, except I have a pressure release valve that allows water to bypass the engine, go through my oil cooler and out the side of the hull.

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