How many people are running a relief set up instead of a gate valve off the pump
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How many people are running a relief set up instead of a gate valve off the pump

  1. #1
    Junior Member JetFeVer's Avatar
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    Default How many people are running a relief set up instead of a gate valve off the pump

    I want to see how many people are running a relief valve set up off the pump instead of using just a gate valve

    There are many Gasket fails using the old Gate valve set up I am wondering how many fails comparing the two set ups



    Opinions???

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  3. #2
    Led
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    never ran a relief valve, no issues, its a good idea, IMO not a must, but keeps water pressure to YOUR liking, which also helps with temp control.

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    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
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    No valve, no relief.


    One valve where the water comes off the pump to shut it off in emergency. Make sure the exit hoses are double the intake and one size larger. (one hose feeding, two hoses dumping, 1/2 feeding, 5/8 exiting.


    I dont like the idea of restricting flow to make heat. I also dont like the idea of adding more shit to complex the system.


    Got moisture in the oil, RUN it HARDER.

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Used to over think things like some, now KISS is the new trick.

    If the lines and overboard fittings are sized properly, none of the extras in my mind are necessary. Been doing this a loooooong time.

    One over sized gate valve at the pump and a dump line sized for the engine HP.
    GT


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    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
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    Im scared to "Build heat" in a jet engine that cooled with COLD lake water.


    In a car at 180 coolant is circulated and STAYS at that temp. The engine is temp is pretty comparable to water temp.

    In a boat where a guy has the valve cranked shut to provide a nice 160-180 WATER temp, I believe the ACTUAL engine temp us MUCH HIGHER. When I start my boat and its empty (of water), it takes about 20 seconds to fill the block and start pumping exit water out the back.


    To take 60 degree lake water and put it in a heater that can heat it to 160 in 20 seconds, the heater element HAS to be WAY hotter than 160-180.

    How HOT is your block when it can heat cold water to almost boiling in 20 seconds?

  8. #6
    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
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    And to add, how hot is the OIL when the block is at 180?

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chop Shop View Post
    Im scared to "Build heat" in a jet engine that cooled with COLD lake water.


    In a car at 180 coolant is circulated and STAYS at that temp. The engine is temp is pretty comparable to water temp.

    In a boat where a guy has the valve cranked shut to provide a nice 160-180 WATER temp, I believe the ACTUAL engine temp us MUCH HIGHER. When I start my boat and its empty (of water), it takes about 20 seconds to fill the block and start pumping exit water out the back.


    To take 60 degree lake water and put it in a heater that can heat it to 160 in 20 seconds, the heater element HAS to be WAY hotter than 160-180.

    How HOT is your block when it can heat cold water to almost boiling in 20 seconds?
    While I would love to agree with you 100%, I can't...

    I set mine and my customers boats up to run the idle temp around 150*F, the temperature will run much lower if everything is sized apropriately to keep the engine at, normally close to 120*-130*F at wide open throttle. I like the warm idle to help heat the oil up when cold. You get the best of both worlds and a better idle quality.

    The water is somewhat restricted, but not much really...
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

  10. #8
    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
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    A stock application a relief valve or pressure regulator is not needed in my opinion, but on the higher HP levels say 700 and on up I think its a must. Also rpm plays a role in it as well. When your spinning the thing up past 6 k its pushing a pretty good amount of volume at a pretty good pressure.

    I run both and set my bypass at 21psi to start dumping. It has plenty of temp in the engine and it wont pop out the freeze plugs or try to push out the head gaskets on a WFO burst.

    To each there own, no extra plumbing really, just a dump from the relief valve.

  11. #9
    Resident Ford Nut Sleeper CP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chop Shop View Post
    Im scared to "Build heat" in a jet engine that cooled with COLD lake water.


    In a car at 180 coolant is circulated and STAYS at that temp. The engine is temp is pretty comparable to water temp.

    In a boat where a guy has the valve cranked shut to provide a nice 160-180 WATER temp, I believe the ACTUAL engine temp us MUCH HIGHER. When I start my boat and its empty (of water), it takes about 20 seconds to fill the block and start pumping exit water out the back.


    To take 60 degree lake water and put it in a heater that can heat it to 160 in 20 seconds, the heater element HAS to be WAY hotter than 160-180.

    How HOT is your block when it can heat cold water to almost boiling in 20 seconds?
    you are correct that in a total loss system of your boat engine that if the water is being heated to 160* in a matter of a few seconds the actual temp of the surface has to be much higher. I've never taken a temp gun to the river and tried it, but I guess I could.

    lots of variables from one boat/one engine to another but I think the true temp of your engine is the oil temp.

    running water temp at 160-180 in a boat at running cruise speed is high. they'll typically boil over at idle if you run them that high. water temp somewhere around 140 has seemed to work for me over the years.

    think about an oil temp gauge so you can run it hard enough to keep water out of your oil. 210-225 at your extended cruise rpm ( where you typically run your boat)

    S CP
    Last edited by Sleeper CP; 07-29-2013 at 09:32 AM.

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  12. #10
    BTC cardcarrying member SuperSoaker's Avatar
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    I run a bypass and a full flow ball valve plus a ball valve at the pump to shut it all down if need be.
    been doing this for a loooooong time on my bbf and bbc from 454 to 548 all under 6000rpm

    motor runs 140-150 at idle and 130-140 at cruise speed

    I also run a one way valve so the motor stays full of water when cut off.

    as far as I know and by my pressure gauge I never get more than 10psi block pressure (WFO)
    1/2 in and 2 5/8 out bypass set at 15psi
    Last edited by SuperSoaker; 07-29-2013 at 10:28 AM.

  13. #11
    Boss of the McIntyre Mob danhercules's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futs View Post
    A stock application a relief valve or pressure regulator is not needed in my opinion, but on the higher HP levels say 700 and on up I think its a must. Also rpm plays a role in it as well. When your spinning the thing up past 6 k its pushing a pretty good amount of volume at a pretty good pressure.
    I agree with this. Not so much the HP number but the RPM number (kinda goes hand in hand tho).

    I spin 5600-5800. No bypass. Just ball valve. Large dump lines with jacketed headers. Never had an issue. Ran just a gate valve on my 18" SW, never had a problem.


    Very first TPR 21' Deck. 528 BBF 736hp on pump gas built by High Flow Dynamics

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  14. #12
    Head Janitor FormulaZR's Avatar
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    I have a pressure relief valve...but my boat also has a closed cooling system.


    "No, my boat doesn't need any more power" - No one ever

  15. #13
    Senior Member PCE680's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danhercules View Post
    I agree with this. Not so much the HP number but the RPM number (kinda goes hand in hand tho).

    I spin 5600-5800. No bypass. Just ball valve. Large dump lines with jacketed headers. Never had an issue. Ran just a gate valve on my 18" SW, never had a problem.
    I would take to Bobby Fry about that one.

  16. #14
    Boss of the McIntyre Mob danhercules's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCE680 View Post
    I would take to Bobby Fry about that one.
    Bob spins a little higher than 5800 RPM (and a LOT more than 700 hp). I would say 6k RPM or higher def have a pressure dump.


    Very first TPR 21' Deck. 528 BBF 736hp on pump gas built by High Flow Dynamics

    McIntyre Mob. Where the rejects play!

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