Driveline keeps sticking to shaft??
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Driveline keeps sticking to shaft??

  1. #1
    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Default Driveline keeps sticking to shaft??

    I dunno is there anything I can paint the shaft with to see where things are hanging up. When I bought the dl I couldn't get it on the shaft at all. After an hour with a file it went on with some encouragement. So I called Tom and he urged me to pull it back apart. So I did and filed some more, slammed a bunch of wheel bearing grease on it and everything seemed fine. Until I blew my motor and went to check it last night and if was stuck again. I don't think it's a twisted shaft only because, when I did tug on it and finally got it loose it slid almost all the way off and got stuck again. I'm going to have to use a pry bar or something for this one cause it ain't moving. Sorry for the long read.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    Glendale Arizona Squirtcha?'s Avatar
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    When you grease up the splines the grease will create a seal and have suction when you go to separate it. Could be something else (mechanical) but I've had mine get stuck on and you could hear the suction let go when it finally released.

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    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Some drive couplers are open ended, so they don't get stuck from the seal.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
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    Senior Member LicktySplitJr's Avatar
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    I had the same issue when I put my together, after fighting with it, filing, greasing any and everything I could think of. I finally pulled it back off and inspected my pump shaft very very closely with a straight edge. I found that it had indeed twisted. It was BARELY and I stress BARELY twisted. I put another shaft in it and the driveline slid right on no issues. Just my cents, I would inspect the splines closely

  7. #5
    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Thanks if I ever get the focker off I'll look a little closer it didn't look twisted but I didn't try a straight edge. It slid all but all the way off before it got stuck again. Maybe the last inch has a twist to it. It also puzzles me that the 2nd time I put it together, I though I had it licked. It slid like a hot dog in a hallway.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    Senior Member LicktySplitJr's Avatar
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    Just be care not to pry on the cap, I made that mistake and ended up cracking that as well

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    Senior Member TahitiRat's Avatar
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    I was thinking of useing lubrabond on mine to keep it free we us that stuff alot for dry film lube on the military aircraft we maintane also used many differant places for alot of things the militry loves this stuff

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    El shafto de twisto, been there and done that.

    Here is a cheat, next time the DL is out, drill and tap a 1/8" pipe hole in the end cap and install a grease fitting, the next time you need to get it off, just hit it with a grease gun, it will come right off.

  11. #9
    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT Jets View Post
    El shafto de twisto, been there and done that.

    Here is a cheat, next time the DL is out, drill and tap a 1/8" pipe hole in the end cap and install a grease fitting, the next time you need to get it off, just hit it with a grease gun, it will come right off.
    Even better fix. Install an aquamet shaft. Works everytime



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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Once you get it apart, clean and dry everything, and coat the shaft splines with Dykem (machinists dye). Then put the coupler on and off a few times (clean, dry, no grease), and look the shaft over very carefully for regular wear spots, high spots, areas it rubs constantly, not every single scratch, but the places interference is happening.

    You may find a twist, or a dinged/damaged spot on a spline.
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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Thanks all. I like the dye idea. I guess I should get off my azz and go pull/pry it. Edit just fell on azz as dl fell off. I guess Squirtcha and GT were on to something there. lmfao. It still won't slide on far enougph without gettin stuck. I prolly have a twisted shaft. It's a little hard to see past the seal.
    Last edited by H20MOFO; 09-08-2008 at 07:01 PM.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

  14. #12
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Kreg, make sure you get it fixed so that it slides easy
    before you put that new engine in, you dont want it
    pushing on your crank and causing thrust problems.

  15. #13
    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Thanks Outlaw. Umm just how much will that shaft move? anyone? I checked my thrust bearing and it was into the copper. In other words 1/4" or????? I think it's tight when I bolt it up and the it get pushed fwd.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

  16. #14
    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    Thanks Outlaw. Umm just how much will that shaft move? anyone? I checked my thrust bearing and it was into the copper. In other words 1/4" or????? I think it's tight when I bolt it up and the it get pushed fwd.
    Hey kreg, Outlaw is giving out good info there. The last thing you would want to do is eat up any end play from the crankshaft.The metal that is getting eatten off the thrust bearing will travel thru the oil and the next thing to go is the cam and it just goes down hill from there.If you are twisting the splines then good for you. It takes a good combo to do that. Personally I would stay away from the grease on the shaft and use anti-sieze compound. It has lubricating properties And still allows easy movement for the splines, messy as hell but works. permatex makes a good product for this. as others have stated make sure you dont have a suction problem. IMO. Mark

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