Thinking about going to AA impeller
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Thinking about going to AA impeller

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    Default Thinking about going to AA impeller

    We use the Spectra 20 - 460 Berk JG for cruising and wakeboarding. I need a better hole shot than my A impeller gives (yes the pump is still good), and I want to lower my cruising RPM a little. I am not worried about the top end. So, what do I need to do the impeller swap or who should I take it to. I am in Los Angeles CA and Parker AZ. What should it cost - impeller, labor, etc...

    Thanks in advance.

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    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Encinoman View Post
    We use the Spectra 20 - 460 Berk JG for cruising and wakeboarding. I need a better hole shot than my A impeller gives (yes the pump is still good), and I want to lower my cruising RPM a little. I am not worried about the top end. So, what do I need to do the impeller swap or who should I take it to. I am in Los Angeles CA and Parker AZ. What should it cost - impeller, labor, etc...

    Thanks in advance.
    It's really easy to do if you have the impeller nut socket and impeller puller for a Berkeley pump. The main thing is to check your front clearance, i.e. the clearance between the front face of the impeller wear ring skirt and the thrust surface of the housing, or the shoulder on a shouldered wear ring. If it's too tight or touching in the front you'll need a shim kit to shim the new impeller back.



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    JRPM/e-PerformanceMarine Squirtin Thunder's Avatar
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    More info on the engine would be needed. I like to use the biggest impeller possible on every boat. My River Rescue tow boat is getting a 9.25 impeller. The boat is a similar boat to yours, GlenCoe version. I am expecting a max speed of 45 - 50mph.
    Jim & Amanda Rich
    CJ 72 & 53c

    JR Performance Motorsports

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    There are better ways to lower the engine's cruising RPM, IMO you may lose mid range performance by using a taller impeller, the engine has to be able to get to its peak torque/HP RPM, have you thought of a different nozzle, or a drrop, it may be all it takes...IMO

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    Quote Originally Posted by Squirtin Thunder View Post
    More info on the engine would be needed. I like to use the biggest impeller possible on every boat. My River Rescue tow boat is getting a 9.25 impeller. The boat is a similar boat to yours, GlenCoe version. I am expecting a max speed of 45 - 50mph.
    i agree, would need to know the wot rpms currently with the a-cut, what rpms you cruise at, if the boat has a loader. don't put a droop on a daycruiser , i don't mind short droops, but the standard droop is too much for em imo(i've owned a 21ft taylor sc with bout 500hp) if you don't have a placed divertor, that's a big upgrade to performance

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    ok, a little more info on the Ford 460. It is a stock hardin marine motor from 1976. 430 original hours. Seems to run pretty good, I never floor it for longer than a second, so I do not know the top RPM, but I would guess 4500 becuase I have been close to that. Top speed ??? don't know. I have a jetovator on the pump, and the pump was redone by MPD a few years ago when it was in my 19.5 kona.

    So, what about an inducer? And what would labor be vs. buying the impeller pulling tool? I am pretty handy, so I would get the pump out and apart myself, but I do not have a press or puller or anything fancy.

    Thanks again.

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    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Encinoman View Post
    ok, a little more info on the Ford 460. It is a stock hardin marine motor from 1976. 430 original hours. Seems to run pretty good, I never floor it for longer than a second, so I do not know the top RPM, but I would guess 4500 becuase I have been close to that. Top speed ??? don't know. I have a jetovator on the pump, and the pump was redone by MPD a few years ago when it was in my 19.5 kona.

    So, what about an inducer? And what would labor be vs. buying the impeller pulling tool? I am pretty handy, so I would get the pump out and apart myself, but I do not have a press or puller or anything fancy.

    Thanks again.
    Puller: $129.99
    Impeller nut socket: $72.99
    Spline socket: $51.99

    The spline socket slips over the splined end of the pump shaft. You then attach a 1/2" drive breaker bar to that and that will hold the shaft still while you break the impeller nut loose. The impeller nut socket is also 1/2" drive as well.

    Honestly, I highly recommend getting the whole factory tool kit. The kit runs about $350...sounds pricey, but you'll be glad you bought it when the occasion arises to need them again. I've torn my pump completely down in about 30 minutes with that tool kit. It's a kit I recommend every jet boater should own. It comes with the puller, spline socket, impeller nut socket, and all the bearing & seal drivers needed.

    Now...if you're tearing down a pump that has never been torn down before and has quite a few years on it, the impeller nut will most likely be rusted onto the shaft, which means you'll either have to heat it up or cut it with a grinder before you can break it loose.

    Here's a link to the tool kit on CP Performance's website.

    http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=4516
    Last edited by Jetaholic; 09-17-2008 at 07:05 PM.



    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown
    Kendall L-427 Super Blu...extreme-pressure (ep) lithium complex keeps my thrusting balls happy
    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Well I am putting in a nice stereo system in the Carrera...maybe Ill put on some rap and turn the scoop sideways

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    jetboataholic HawaiianJet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Encinoman View Post
    ok, a little more info on the Ford 460. It is a stock hardin marine motor from 1976. 430 original hours. Seems to run pretty good, I never floor it for longer than a second, so I do not know the top RPM, but I would guess 4500 becuase I have been close to that. Top speed ??? don't know. I have a jetovator on the pump, and the pump was redone by MPD a few years ago when it was in my 19.5 kona.

    So, what about an inducer? And what would labor be vs. buying the impeller pulling tool? I am pretty handy, so I would get the pump out and apart myself, but I do not have a press or puller or anything fancy.

    Thanks again.
    I'll probably get burned for this, but I just used a 3 jaw bearing puller to pull the impeller off (cost me like $10 or something like that). As long as you're careful, and know when to stop, it is very easy to do. As for the press, I'm sure you can come up with something, look in the phone book and call up a few machine shops, it shouldn't cost you more than a few bucks to have the old one pressed off and the new one pressed on. And for the impeller nut, if you can find a big wrench, that should work, but the impeller socket is preferred. I find it's best to remove the impeller while the pump is still attached to the engine, eliminates the need for the spline socket.

    If you have the money buy the tool kit!!! I don't have that kind of money, so I have to improvise.

    Now the inducer would be a little more involved, requiring the shaft to be turned and keyed for the inducer, and it has to be done properly, so best to take it to someone who knows what the hell they're doing. All this equals more money.

    Good luck.
    HJ

    ***FOR SALE*** 1978 19' Full Stringer Hawaiian Molokai Jet Boat w/ Berkeley 12JC-AB and Chevy 440 Tall Deck ***FOR SALE***

    Quote Originally Posted by mako shark mark View Post
    Oh yeah, Forgot to mention that the hull is a special mixture of speedcote, herculiner and rain-x, all blended together- good for another 8 mph top end.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HawaiianJet View Post
    I'll probably get burned for this, but I just used a 3 jaw bearing puller to pull the impeller off (cost me like $10 or something like that). As long as you're careful, and know when to stop, it is very easy to do. As for the press, I'm sure you can come up with something, look in the phone book and call up a few machine shops, it shouldn't cost you more than a few bucks to have the old one pressed off and the new one pressed on. And for the impeller nut, if you can find a big wrench, that should work, but the impeller socket is preferred. I find it's best to remove the impeller while the pump is still attached to the engine, eliminates the need for the spline socket.

    If you have the money buy the tool kit!!! I don't have that kind of money, so I have to improvise.

    Now the inducer would be a little more involved, requiring the shaft to be turned and keyed for the inducer, and it has to be done properly, so best to take it to someone who knows what the hell they're doing.

    Good luck.
    The impeller socket will definitely be needed since the impeller nut will need to be torqued down to 75ft lbs.



    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown
    Kendall L-427 Super Blu...extreme-pressure (ep) lithium complex keeps my thrusting balls happy
    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Well I am putting in a nice stereo system in the Carrera...maybe Ill put on some rap and turn the scoop sideways

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    So for cruising in the 2800-3300 RPM range - which is what we normally do, will the inducer or a switch to the AA impeller (from an A impeller) be a better bang for the buck?

    Thanks again -

    P.S. anyone selling an AA impeller?

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    if yoy don't care about top end change to the AA aggressor impeller, if you want the top end put in the inducer, Jim

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    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetaholic View Post
    The impeller socket will definitely be needed since the impeller nut will need to be torqued down to 75ft lbs.
    Negitive on that, the impeller nut needs about 250-300lbs of torque on it.... I made this mistake torquing it down to 80 lbs... next thing i know, i'm pulling the motor because i have this noise that sounds like it's comming from the pan.... End result, my impeller nut came loose and the rattle was driving down the shaft, through the drive shaft and down the crank. For a stock app with a steel nut i'm told 80 lbs is fine, but for any type of app running alittle bit more than normal HP and a aluminum nut, you want to torque the shit out of it. I have a 3 ft wrench i bought for 20 bucks off ebay that i use... I basically stand and jump up and down on it. The other side i use the spin socket with a long breaker bar that lays accross a 2x4 in the bot.

    [email protected] has a 3 ft bar he uses too...

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    jetboataholic HawaiianJet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun View Post
    Negitive on that, the impeller nut needs about 250-300lbs of torque on it.... I made this mistake torquing it down to 80 lbs... next thing i know, i'm pulling the motor because i have this noise that sounds like it's comming from the pan.... End result, my impeller nut came loose and the rattle was driving down the shaft, through the drive shaft and down the crank. For a stock app with a steel nut i'm told 80 lbs is fine, but for any type of app running alittle bit more than normal HP and a aluminum nut, you want to torque the shit out of it. I have a 3 ft wrench i bought for 20 bucks off ebay that i use... I basically stand and jump up and down on it. The other side i use the spin socket with a long breaker bar that lays accross a 2x4 in the bot.

    [email protected] has a 3 ft bar he uses too...
    That's what I use too, but I didn't want to say anything because I figured somebody would come on here and tell me I was over torquing it or something like that.

    HJ

    ***FOR SALE*** 1978 19' Full Stringer Hawaiian Molokai Jet Boat w/ Berkeley 12JC-AB and Chevy 440 Tall Deck ***FOR SALE***

    Quote Originally Posted by mako shark mark View Post
    Oh yeah, Forgot to mention that the hull is a special mixture of speedcote, herculiner and rain-x, all blended together- good for another 8 mph top end.

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun View Post
    Negitive on that, the impeller nut needs about 250-300lbs of torque on it.... I made this mistake torquing it down to 80 lbs... next thing i know, i'm pulling the motor because i have this noise that sounds like it's comming from the pan.... End result, my impeller nut came loose and the rattle was driving down the shaft, through the drive shaft and down the crank. For a stock app with a steel nut i'm told 80 lbs is fine, but for any type of app running alittle bit more than normal HP and a aluminum nut, you want to torque the shit out of it. I have a 3 ft wrench i bought for 20 bucks off ebay that i use... I basically stand and jump up and down on it. The other side i use the spin socket with a long breaker bar that lays accross a 2x4 in the bot.

    [email protected] has a 3 ft bar he uses too...
    the wrench we made for impellor nuts has a 2 ft arm on it, and on that 2ft arm, i slide over my 6ft cheater pipe i figure my 170lbs hanging from 7ft of leverage is plenty tight on my 17-4 shaft course i take it easy on alum impellors.


    i'm with jim, get a inducer. you can pull out the shaft yourself, but you can't machine the keyway or collar without a lathe and end mill.

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