Running the boat on the trailer
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Running the boat on the trailer

  1. #1
    Member sneakyneon's Avatar
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    Default Running the boat on the trailer

    I've heard it said several time that its bad for the pump to run the boat out of the water, My question is how bad? If I ran it for 10 min "dry" should I redo pump. I commonly fire the boat up on the trailer right before putting it in the water just to make sure its going to light off, is short few seconds fine with no damage or is that a NO-NO as well?

    Thanks for the input.

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    Senior Member fleetimus's Avatar
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    Do a search. Many, many, many threads on that subject
    Is this real or the "Twilight Zone"?

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Not recommended to do although lots do it (without the driveline disconnected) , alot depends on how much runout is in the shaft , how worn,fresh or old the rebuild is what type wear ring and or impeller is in it , how much "grit" has been picked up in the jet during towing etc , anyway you do it your rolling the dice ...

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    Default Totally dry vs "wet"...

    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    Not recommended to do although lots do it (without the driveline disconnected) , alot depends on how much runout is in the shaft , how worn,fresh or old the rebuild is what type wear ring and or impeller is in it , how much "grit" has been picked up in the jet during towing etc , anyway you do it your rolling the dice ...
    I too like to fire the boat on the ramp prior to launching, but I try to back in deep enough to rinse the pump out, then pull up and do the pre launch fire up.... I've ran every jet I've owned on the trailer, and while none of them were "tricked out" expensive units, I can't say any were damaged because of it... I DO keep the pump wet off the garden hose, and my plumbing allows me to split the water off the engine cooling supply... If your pump is just a stocker, and not already worn out, you should be OK running on the trailer prior to launching, just rinse the road grit and grime out of it first...
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    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
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    Replace that ford with a chevy and you wont need to "test" it anymore!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chop Shop View Post
    Replace that ford with a chevy and you wont need to "test" it anymore!
    Just to clarify; make sure I get the gist of what you're saying .... if I replace my Ford with a Chevy, I just shouldn't bother splashing because I'd know for sure it won't light off? Brilliant!
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    Senior Member orange bahner's Avatar
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    I made this to keep the jet and wear ring wet while running on the trailer. It sprays directly into the intake and works very well.
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    Quote Originally Posted by orange bahner View Post
    I made this to keep the jet and wear ring wet while running on the trailer. It sprays directly into the intake and works very well.
    Great idea. Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by sneakyneon View Post
    I've heard it said several time that its bad for the pump to run the boat out of the water, My question is how bad? If I ran it for 10 min "dry" should I redo pump. I commonly fire the boat up on the trailer right before putting it in the water just to make sure its going to light off, is short few seconds fine with no damage or is that a NO-NO as well?

    Thanks for the input.
    If you are at the launch ramp anyway, why is it that you don't back the boat in just deep enough to fire with water, then back it deeper to remove from trailer after you know it will run? You should be able to put the pump in close enough to a neutral position that it won't move the boat.

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    Senior Member jyeager's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by obnoxious001 View Post
    If you are at the launch ramp anyway, why is it that you don't back the boat in just deep enough to fire with water, then back it deeper to remove from trailer after you know it will run? You should be able to put the pump in close enough to a neutral position that it won't move the boat.
    I agree. I have never dry start any boat i've owned with out taking the boat out of gear or taking the driveline off . If you have to start it out of the water disconnect the driveline so you don't kill the clearances in your pump.
    Last edited by jyeager; 03-10-2014 at 12:25 PM.
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    Senior Member Chop Shop's Avatar
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    Maybe its just me, but if a pump is set up correctly how can the rotating parts touch the non rotating parts?


    I understand that dirt and grime can act as abrasives and wear the surfaces.

    But say at the races you just pulled out and have not driven down the road and dirtied anything up, why not run it?



    Does a TIGHTLY set up tolerance actually touch? If it did, would water lube in like oil does a crank bearing?

    If the bowl has oil/grease, how can parts that dont actually touch damage each other?





    Just curious. I have no garnen hose fitting and always just launch and then fire. Not a dry kinda guy, myself.

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    Senior Member DuaneHTP's Avatar
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    Does a TIGHTLY set up tolerance actually touch? If it did, would water lube in like oil does a crank bearing?

    If the bowl has oil/grease, how can parts that dont actually touch damage each other?
    Yes, it can touch. The shaft and impeller can wobble or flex due to balance or other reasons. Engine and driveline vibrations can be picked up by the unloaded shaft. When the pump is in the water is is hydraylically centered to a point. And yes, the water does lubricate it. Helps keep the friction down which is heat. When running on the trailer the shaft packing is also runing dry on the shaft.
    Last edited by DuaneHTP; 03-10-2014 at 02:57 PM.

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    My experience: I had 450+ hours on my AT pump with WATER-LUBED tailshaft bearings before I replaced the impeller and bearings. The OD on the tailshaft is nearing the minimum diameter spec for replacement due to wear, but I believe that the wear is mostly from running in the sandy Mississippi and Missouri rivers years ago.

    I ALWAYS fire my boat for 3-4 seconds "dry" prior to ramping/launching. On a busy weekend, it's just a matter of common courtesy to minimize the time that you spend launching your boat, and thus ensuring functionality before you put it on the ramp. Granted.........most people don't know what common courtesy is when they are on the ramp, but we try to set a good example.

  16. #14
    Member sneakyneon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpkardell View Post
    My experience: I had 450+ hours on my AT pump with WATER-LUBED tailshaft bearings before I replaced the impeller and bearings. The OD on the tailshaft is nearing the minimum diameter spec for replacement due to wear, but I believe that the wear is mostly from running in the sandy Mississippi and Missouri rivers years ago.

    I ALWAYS fire my boat for 3-4 seconds "dry" prior to ramping/launching. On a busy weekend, it's just a matter of common courtesy to minimize the time that you spend launching your boat, and thus ensuring functionality before you put it on the ramp. Granted.........most people don't know what common courtesy is when they are on the ramp, but we try to set a good example.
    Thats why I do it too, its usually busy, the lake folks are hardly friendly to this type of boat around here, so I fire for a few seconds on the trailer. I had an issue with the key switch where it wouldn't shut off (at home thank god) but it ran for a good 10 min maybe longer, on and off figuring it out what the issue was. The pump was all redon last winter and I didnt want to pull it all back apart if I didn't have too. But I would if the boat was going to go any slower because of damage.

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