stainless/bronze wear ring ???'s
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stainless/bronze wear ring ???'s

  1. #1
    Strap on the JATO konajet74's Avatar
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    Default stainless/bronze wear ring ???'s

    I've made the phone calls, searched for info & found old
    instructions for wear rings etc. I called popular jet boat shop
    & they told me to cut off the lip of the insulator and push my
    SS wear ring all the way up against the suction. I said o.k &
    then called another shop. They said BS!! Is there a difference
    between the wear rings & how to install them? Are the SS ones
    not good? Sorry for all the questions, I just haven't heard a
    answer that sounds right & logical?? My intake originally
    had a bronze shouldered wear ring & I was told to put a SS
    one in instead. When installed there's a gap between the
    impeller & the suction that's about the size on the lip on the
    bronze wear ring on top of the normal .025-.030 clearance.
    Does the shaft need machining to get the forward clearance
    right? Sorry for the long read & thanks in advance for the help!

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    jetboataholic HawaiianJet's Avatar
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    Give Tom at Jet Boat Performance a call. He'll set ya straight.
    HJ

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    Oh yeah, Forgot to mention that the hull is a special mixture of speedcote, herculiner and rain-x, all blended together- good for another 8 mph top end.

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    Strap on the JATO konajet74's Avatar
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    Tom's on the list to call, I haven't got there yet. I
    know he's lurking here.......

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    Senior Member BGMAN's Avatar
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    If your running a non sholdered wear ring, regardless of the material, you need to measure the forward clearance from the suction piece and the leading edge of the impeller. Depending on the impeller your using and how it was shimmed before (with the shouldered wear ring) you may need to cut the shaft to get the proper forward clearance.

  7. #5
    Strap on the JATO konajet74's Avatar
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    The impeller is seated on the shaft & the clearance is that of
    the normal .025-.030 + the measurement of the lip on the bronze
    wear ring (1/16"). Looks like I have to machine the shaft or just
    put a bronze one in like I should of!

  8. #6
    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    Kona, were there shims on the pump shaft ahead of the impeller when you were running the shouldered wear ring? That is the typical method of moving the impeller back to compensate for the shoulder and set the front clearance. Those shims would need to be removed for the non-shouldered wear ring.

    Are you using the same impeller with the new wear ring?

    Are you sure that you are bottoming the impeller on the shaft and not at the rear of the wear ring and impeller shoulder?

    Before assembly did you happpen to set the wear ring on the impeller to compare width of wear ring to width of wear ring surface of impeller?

  9. #7
    Strap on the JATO konajet74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsquirt View Post
    Kona, were there shims on the pump shaft ahead of the impeller when you were running the shouldered wear ring? That is the typical method of moving the impeller back to compensate for the shoulder and set the front clearance. Those shims would need to be removed for the non-shouldered wear ring.

    Are you using the same impeller with the new wear ring?

    Are you sure that you are bottoming the impeller on the shaft and not at the rear of the wear ring and impeller shoulder?

    Before assembly did you happpen to set the wear ring on the impeller to compare width of wear ring to width of wear ring surface of impeller?
    There were no shims when I removed everything & I'm using the
    same impeller. I'm sure the impeller is on the shaft all the way, I measured the depth of the impeller & marked the shaft the same distance. Then I installed the impeller & made sure it went all the way on. I even went under the boat from inside the suction and visually checked. I was told the stock clearance for SS wear rings is .125 (1/8") before they're machined to get the .025-.030 , done during blueprinting?
    There's a good distance(1/8") between the rear of the wear ring and
    the impeller shoulder. Is there a measurement that it should be?

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Kona the info the folks have given previouslyyou is correct ,to get this right ,your either going to have to back with the bronse shouldered or "machine" to bring the impeller forward to "engage" more of the wear ring you already used . Although under some circumstances we use stnls non shouldered , we prefer shouldered Bronze and sholdered stnls Sorry I couldn't get back to you last nite Tom

  11. #9
    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    I'm wondering if the impeller clearance was set up for the shouldered wear ring by machining the impeller front edge and shoulder.

    Can you accurately measure the distance from the leading edge of impeller to the inner edge that contacts the shoulder of the shaft?

    You're 1000000% sure there are no shims?

  12. #10
    Strap on the JATO konajet74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsquirt View Post
    I'm wondering if the impeller clearance was set up for the shouldered wear ring by machining the impeller front edge and shoulder.

    Can you accurately measure the distance from the leading edge of impeller to the inner edge that contacts the shoulder of the shaft?

    You're 1000000% sure there are no shims?
    It doesn't look like any machining was done to the impeller. I don't understand your second ?. I think you're asking the distance the
    impeller rides on the shaft? I just put a tape inside the impeller from frt to back. 100000000000000000% sure no shims came out when taken apart.

  13. #11
    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    Pull the impeller out and set it on a table with front side facing up. Lay a straight edge across the leading edge of the impeller and measure down to the narrow machined lip around the center hole(where impeller contacts shoulder on pump shaft).

    If it had been machined at some time in the past, you would probably not see any signs of it having been done.

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    Strap on the JATO konajet74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsquirt View Post
    Pull the impeller out and set it on a table with front side facing up. Lay a straight edge across the leading edge of the impeller and measure down to the narrow machined lip around the center hole(where impeller contacts shoulder on pump shaft).

    If it had been machined at some time in the past, you would probably not see any signs of it having been done.
    O.K, got it..... I'll check when I get home. Do you know the stock
    dimensions by chance?

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    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    I can only tell you that my spare impeller measures 1.5". I've never used this impeller so I can't say that that is absolutely correct. It did come out of a working pump, though.

  16. #14
    Strap on the JATO konajet74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsquirt View Post
    I can only tell you that my spare impeller measures 1.5". I've never used this impeller so I can't say that that is absolutely correct. It did come out of a working pump, though.
    I measured mine & it's at 1 1/2" also. So, with the SS wear ring & not
    machining the shaft, I'll have a pretty big gap from the impeller to the
    suction housing. How much will this hurt between the brass one,
    machining the shaft & leaving it alone? Maybe I'll leave it & upgrade
    one piece at a time & watch the progress? 2 years at this project &
    it's time to hit the water! I don't care if it's cold, the itch is killing
    me!

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