Wiring Diagram
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Wiring Diagram

  1. #1
    Senior Member LuckyDaze's Avatar
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    Default Wiring Diagram

    I am about to wire my boat. Anyone out there have any diagrams they'd be willing to share with me? I've got a general idea in the direction I'd like to go but this will be my first wack at wiring up the boat.

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    Member sneakyneon's Avatar
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    Not a diagram, but I did my boat last year and made 2 of these blocks which gave me room to grow.
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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Heres a couple we have , I'll find a couple other variarations when time permits Tom


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    Senior Member LuckyDaze's Avatar
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    Thanks Tom! I remember in the past you posted those for me was hopin again since I could remember if that post was here or over at HotBo.... ah, that other site.

  7. #5
    Senior Member stc315's Avatar
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    Here's some of the stuff I've got from different sources, not sure if the pics will work;




    Ever wonder why your engine on your boat has a terminal block? More commonly called the "barrier strip", its purpose is to provide a disconnection point between the engine wiring and the dash wiring. This is so that you can leave the engine wiring intact and easily disconnect the dash wiring in the event that the engine needs to be pulled out, saving time and headaches.

    I have attached two diagrams of how a barrier strip is typically wired. Some boats use a 7 position strip while others use an 8 position strip. The only difference being that the 8 position strip allows a connection for the alternator's "Charge" wire, but quite honestly I see no reason for the alternator to be connected to the strip since it does not run to the dash, so a 7 position strip is perfect if you're replacing your wiring or wiring up a brand new boat.

    Of course...this is the way it has been done since the first jet boat was created. A more modern way of doing it is by using a 7 pin weatherpack connector. It's much quicker to disconnect than having to unscrew 7 wires from a barrier strip, and it keeps your connections sealed from the elements unlike a barrier strip. Weatherpack makes 'pigtails', which are the connector with wires already crimped internally that you spliced into your existing wiring. If you know how to solder and heat shrink, I recommend going this route so you wont have to buy any special crimp tools to assemble the connector. The pigtails come in 1, 2, 3 and 4 pin style. You can use a 4 way and a 3 way connector to connect all 7 wires. If the alternator originally connected to the barrier strip, I would just run an 8AWG wire from the charge terminal to the battery + terminal to correct this.

    In the diagrams you will see that one side of the strip is the "Engine" side while the other side of the strip is the "Dash" side. These diagrams show what wire is what from left to right as you're looking at the back side of the engine while standing behind the transom.



    7 Terminal Block
    Engine Side:

    Terminal 1 (ground): This wire is a short wire that runs to the engine block. The negative terminal of the battery connects to the block, so by running a wire from this terminal to a bolt on the engine block will connect this terminal to the negative side of the battery.

    Terminal 2 (battery +): The wire from this terminal can be connected to one of 3 places. You can either run it straight to the battery's + terminal, or the battery + terminal on the starter, or if you're running an aux solenoid you can run it to the terminal on the solenoid that connects to the + terminal of the battery. I run an aux solenoid so this is the way I have mine set up.

    Terminal 3 ("S" terminal on starter): This terminal runs directly to the terminal labeled "S" on the back of the starter bendix, or to the coil on the aux solenoid. When running an aux solenoid, the "S" terminal of the starter will receive power directly from the battery when the aux solenoid is switched on by this wire.

    Terminal 4 (Ignition + voltage source): This wire depends on the ignition system you're running. Basically this terminal only has power on it when the ignition switch is in the "On" or "Run" position. We call this the "Hot In Run" terminal. I have listed a few of the common ignitions to give you an idea:
    HEI: Goes to the BAT+ Terminal on distributor
    Points Ignition: Ballast resistor which connects to the + terminal of ignition coil
    MSD R2R Distributor (no box): Red wire on distributor
    MSD Box: Red wire on 6 pin weatherpack connector

    Terminal 5 (oil pressure sending unit): This terminal connects to the screw terminal on the top of the oil pressure sending unit.

    Terminal 6 (water temperature sending unit): This terminal connects to the screw terminal on the top of the water temperature sending unit

    Terminal 7 (tachometer signal from ignition): This wire depends on what ignition you're running. I have listed a few to give you an idea:
    HEI: Runs to the "Tach" terminal on the distributor cap
    Points type ignition: Runs to (-) terminal of the ignition coil
    MSD R2R Distributor (no box): To (-) terminal of the ignition coil
    MSD Box: The box will have a seperate wire for the tach signal...that wire runs to terminal 7. You may need a tach signal adapter, which MSD supplies, depending on what brand of tach you're running. Check MSD manual for your particular ignition for more information

    Dash Side:

    Terminal 1 (dash ground): This terminal connects to a master ground wire, preferrably of a heavier gauge (10AWG or bigger). This wire will be the master ground feed to all the dash mounted accessories.

    Terminal 2 ("BAT" terminal of ignition switch): This terminal connects straight to the "BAT" terminal of the ignition switch and should be of heavy gauge (10AWG or bigger). This wire is the master power feed for all dash mounted accessories. This wire is constantly hot at all times. Any circuits that will receive power regardless of ignition switch position will be powered from this wire (i.e. bilge pump circuit).

    Terminal 3 ("SOL" terminal of ignition switch): This terminal connects straight to the "SOL" terminal of the ignition switch. This wire only receives power from the "BAT" terminal of the switch when the key is in the "Start" position. This wire feeds power back to the starter bendix or solenoid to tell the starter to turn on.

    Terminal 4 ("IGN" terminal of ignition switch): This terminal connects straight to the "IGN" terminal of the ignition switch. This wire receives power from the "BAT" terminal when the key is in the "On" or "Run" position. This wire supplies power to the ignition system (or an "On" signal to MSD box ignitions). Also, any circuits that receive power only when the key is on will be powered from the "IGN" terminal of the switch (i.e. gauge circuit).

    Terminal 5 ("S" terminal on oil pressure gauge): This terminal runs to the "S" terminal on the back of the oil pressure gauge to connect it to the oil pressure sending unit

    Terminal 6 ("S" terminal on water temperature gauge): This terminal runs to the "S" terminal on the back of the water temperature gauge to connect it to the water temperature sending unit

    Terminal 7 ("S" terminal on Tachometer): This terminal runs to the "S" terminal on the back of the tachometer to connect it to the tach signal from the ignition
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    Last edited by stc315; 04-01-2014 at 04:02 PM.
    Too much horsepower is almost enough!!!


    My boat is fast.....on Craiglist or EBay.


    I've been 340mph+ with a boat........In the back of a C130!

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    Senior Member stc315's Avatar
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    Pics didn't work. Was from Word document. PM me your email and I can email it to you.

    Here's another article about colors;

    Possible
    Black - All grounds
    Red - Constant hot (all wires that have 12 volts on them regardless of key switch position, "BAT" terminal on key switch)
    Purple - Hot In Run (switched hot, controlled by key switch i.e. ignition, gauges, etc, "IGN" terminal on key switch)
    White - Hot In Start (runs the starter bendix or aux solenoid)
    Light Blue - Oil Pressure Sender; "S" terminal on Oil Pressure gauge
    Light Brown or Tan - Water Temperature Sender; "S" terminal on Water Temperature gauge
    Grey - Tachometer signal from ignition; "S" terminal on Tachometer
    Orange - Bilge Pump hot from switch to pump
    Pink - Bilge Blower hot from switch to blower
    White/Red - Fuel level sender; "S" terminal on Fuel Level gauge
    Yellow - Lights from switch to lights

    Corrected
    Red=battery+
    Black or white=ground
    Dark blue= navigation lights
    Yellow/red=start safety
    Yellow=Start (after safety)
    Pink=fuel sender
    Purple=ignition
    Tan=water temp
    Baby blue=Oil pressure
    Grey=Tachometer
    Orange=Bilge blower
    Brown=bilge pump.

    If you have an ammeter then a heavy orange will be used from the "out" side of the meter to battery at the engine...

    If you have hydraulic trim

    Blue/wht.="up"
    Green/wht="down"
    Red=power

    get it? blue sky (up) green grass (down)
    Too much horsepower is almost enough!!!


    My boat is fast.....on Craiglist or EBay.


    I've been 340mph+ with a boat........In the back of a C130!

  9. #7
    Senior Member stc315's Avatar
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    Here's a few diagrams;
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    Too much horsepower is almost enough!!!


    My boat is fast.....on Craiglist or EBay.


    I've been 340mph+ with a boat........In the back of a C130!

  10. #8
    Senior Member LuckyDaze's Avatar
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    WOW! Thanks for the information fellas!

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    Bump


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Senior Member activeshack's Avatar
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    I bought a pre made harness from CPPerformance when I did mine and it really simplified the job. I had to shorten a few of the wires to tidy things up but it made the whole job a lot easier. The wires in the harness for the fuel tank senders which I didn't need I used for my fuel pump and trim indicator. I also used there engine harness that comes with a terminal block.
    Last edited by activeshack; 04-02-2014 at 07:34 PM.

  13. #11
    Senior Member LuckyDaze's Avatar
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    Tom, looking at your diagrom's some more it says to run the start wire through an aux relay... My boat wasn't originially wired with any relays... I will be wiring one in for my fuel pump, but is it necessary for this setup?

    My original idea was to run a signal wire from the Key switch to provide the starter solenoid with 12v power.

    Just got done making the ignition harness, fuel tank harness and gauges are run. Next is to start hooking up the bits and peieces once I score some more wire on payday.

  14. #12
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyDaze View Post
    Tom, looking at your diagrom's some more it says to run the start wire through an aux relay... My boat wasn't originially wired with any relays... I will be wiring one in for my fuel pump, but is it necessary for this setup?

    My original idea was to run a signal wire from the Key switch to provide the starter solenoid with 12v power.

    Just got done making the ignition harness, fuel tank harness and gauges are run. Next is to start hooking up the bits and peieces once I score some more wire on payday.
    The "start relay" or helper solenoid is to help the starter solenoid derive a strong hot signal vs getting a potential low voltage signal all the way back from the dash/ignition key , and an additional relay for your Electric fuel pump is also prudent


  15. #13
    Senior Member LuckyDaze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    The "start relay" or helper solenoid is to help the starter solenoid derive a strong hot signal vs getting a potential low voltage signal all the way back from the dash/ignition key , and an additional relay for your Electric fuel pump is also prudent

    10/4. As always I appreciate all you've helped me with over the years. I swear this boat will run one day

  16. #14
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Yeah Buddy its definitely been a while...

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