Setting Berkley intake on a 20.5ft Eliminator sport cruiser
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Setting Berkley intake on a 20.5ft Eliminator sport cruiser

  1. #1
    Senior Member nosfomoco's Avatar
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    Default Setting Berkley intake on a 20.5ft Eliminator sport cruiser

    So I am doing the scary intake swap to install a ride plate and shoe. I managed to remove the old intake with out to much drama, but now comes pulling hair out time. So i picked up this intake used with a flat cut tapered shoe measuring 1/2 inch to 3/8. It was originally in a Gulwing hull if it makes a differrence. So I started marking reference points all over boat and it seems the original intake was off to one side about an 1/8 of an inch (didnt notice any previous affects, but it only went 53mph). So after a few mock ups i got it centered and set to 4 degrees and ran a straight edge on bottom of boat to see where shoe was, it was about 1/8 above the keel, is that correct? I have never ran a flat cut shoe before. Also I am going to have to remove a huge chucnk from bottom of boat for the ride plate, will probabley have to add glass afterwards. seemed a little excessive to me, but thats why i am asking. I also set the front of intake level with front of intake opening, the sides where level but the center of intake had a big hump that hung down below boat, i gound it down to match the contour of bottom, is that the correct way? I was trying to keep the intake as low as possible to minimize the cutting for the ride plate. I will try to get some pics soon. Thanks.
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    Last edited by nosfomoco; 04-14-2014 at 08:45 PM. Reason: Pics
    1978 Eliminator Sport Cruiser 20.5ft BBF 460!

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  3. #2
    Senior Member
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    Default intake setting

    Where you are going to grind for the ride plate to clear the bottom of the boat, you need to add glass to the inside of the boat first. If you set the intake first you can not add the glass as it will be under the intake.

    You might find that once you have ground enough off of the bottom for the ride plate to clear the boat you have exposed the wood in the transom. You will need to address this. You can use a rouer to remove some of the bottom of the wood and fiberglass the void. Keep in mind that this should be a structural repair to re attach the bottom of the boat to the outside of the transom.

    For setting the intake you should be taking all of your measurements from the bottom of the boat. I have seen many intakes set off center from the factory. The front of the intake where you ground to match the contour of the boat is fine, lots of them were done this way from the factory. Set the pump mounting flange to 4 degrees, but also check that the shoe pad is at 0 degrees to the bottom of the boat. The shoe pad being level would be my priority.

    Most boats have wavy bottoms or a hook in them so pick an area where you will measure the degree of the bottom of the boat (preferably not at the end of the hook) and mark this area. When you are checking for the degree of the intake keep using the same location as a reference. If you dont you will drive yourself crazy trying to figure out why everything keeps changing.

    I have found that it makes things easier to get the intake exactly where you want it and make some off set marks on pieces of tape inside the boat, on the bottom of the boat and on the transom. I usually use a number like 4" everywhere. When you are setting the intake it makes checking measurements a lot easier if you are looking for the same dimension everywhere.

    Take your time and good luck. Hit me up if you need some of the sea going epoxy I just bought a case of it and Im right up the road from Sac.

    Chris

  4. #3
    Senior Member 1975sleekcraft's Avatar
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    Default

    you want to set the biting edge of the shoe 100 thousands above the keel---(without any shims)

    if those pics are with the shoe on....it looks like your over half an inch above the keel..........
    75 Eliminator

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