No header water
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No header water

  1. #1
    Senior Member xxtremez's Avatar
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    Jul 2013
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    Texas
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    Default No header water

    Hear me out,
    I have ceramic coated headers but really want to be able to get water to them considering I took the time and effort to run a billet shut off valve to my seat with all braided line. Currently the only way my headers will get water is if my temp control valve is wide open. My setup, 3/4 ball valve off pump to -10 split to two -10 into block. Water divider has -8 to header water shut off valve back to Bassett T then to headers all -8. Other side of outlet is -10 to dump. With my temp valve all the way open obviously I do not make temp. I have not put a pressure gague on it yet but one is on order.

    1. What is idea pressure? I have heard different #s
    2. With out plumbing with smaller lines to build psi, is a shut off valve on the dump acceptable, as long as I monitor pressure?
    3. I have meticulously ran all stainless line and dont really want to change any of that, looking for best way to build psi to get water to headers.

    Thanks in advance!
    Fo Show

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  3. #2
    Senior Member ICECREAMAN's Avatar
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    Default

    What I did to solve a similar problem was to come off the pump inlet to a T. One side went to the engine, the other side went to the valve up by your seat, then back to the Basset T and to the headers. This gives full pump pressure to your shut off valve and to your Basset T.
    Something else you actually mentioned but said you don't want to do is change your plumbing, reverse your line sizes. I would prefer -8 in, and multiple exits of -10 or -8 for header and -10 out the dump. Using a bigger dump line than charge line helps control your pressure so you can leave the valve at the pump all the way open for max volume.
    As far as water pressure, much over 15lbs would cause me concern, this is where multiple ways for the water to exit helps.
    Last edited by ICECREAMAN; 04-26-2014 at 09:52 PM.

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