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Water in oil

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1K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Squirtcha? 
#1 ·
Hey everyone! I haven't been on here in a really long time. But it's winter now, and I've almost nixed the idea of selling the Taylor. I want to get it going again. I had it running in July but that was as far as I got. Got the gauges wired in and after running it for an hour or more on the ramp the engine temp was good. I then looked at the oil and saw it was milky. I have a gate valve on it which is barley open so I don't think that's the problem. I was going to pull the heads and have them gone through when I do the head gasket (that's what I suspect the problem is). Does anyone know a good place in Austin (or around Austin) that'll do it at a good price. I just don't want to have to worry about dropping a valve or the head being warped. Also, does anyone think it may not be a head gasket? Thanks!

Eric
 
#2 ·
pull all the plugs out, block off all the water exits on the motor, and hook up a water hose to a inlet on the motor. if its a head gasket, water will come outta a plug hole or leak into the block(which will show up if you have the oil drain plug out, water will start coming outta it. compression test may show a weak cylinder as well. i had a blown headgasket on a bbf that only had a 7psi loss compared to others once:)sphss i chased a ignition issue till finally i water pressure testing the block and it showed itself.
 
#4 ·
Just pull the intake manifold off and look? Please exuse my ignorace, I've only worked on my 12valve Cummins and haven't messed with gas engines in a few years. Can the intake manifold come off w/o removing the heads? Just carburetor right? Thanks
 
#5 ·
Don't have to pull the carb, just disconnect everything from it. The distrib. has to come out.
Yes, like ol guy said, the intake manifold is the most comon culprit. a SMALL ammount of RTV just arround the water passages at all 4 corners usually prevents that. Make sure the outflow water paths are not clogged too, that's be the lines from the t-stat cover to the bottom of the exhaust risers (snails). Never seen mine clogged, but, it COULD happen.

Before putting the intake back on, make sure NO grease or oiliness on the gasket surfaces. I wipe all down with Acetone myself (same before setting a head).

Intake bolts are generally only torqued to arround 35 pounds, and loosen up the first few times the engine gets heat cycled, re-check them often for the first several times. I did mine 3 or 4 times before I ever started the engine, they eased up some from gasket set while cold (normal). After a couple engine runs, they didn't slacken any more.

Good luck.

If you've still got her this summer, come to a Taylor Owner's Gathering sometime, probably be closer to you than to me. LOL.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the reply! Yes, I really want to make it to a meet. I'm going to be busting my azz to get this thing water worthy! As long as I have seats in it, I'll bring her!

Quick question, do I use RTV instead of a gasket? Also, how do I stab the dist. without everything getting out of wack? Thanks so much!
 
#10 · (Edited)
...how do I stab the dist. without everything getting out of wack? Thanks so much!
On a Ford 460, the disributor does not need to be disturbed in order to remove the intake manifold.

Facory torque spec for the intake manifold bolts is 25-30 foot pounds.

LO
 
#8 ·
Use a gasket (new ones), only a LITTLE RTV arround the water ports at the ends.

re-torque/check-torque/check-torque/check-torque

Mark the dist. base to intake with a sharpee before taking it loose.
Mark the rotor pointing position relative to the base (just below the cap) with the cap removed, but before taking the base clamp loose.
You SHOULD BE ABLE to re-assemble all to the index marks and be very close.

If it's already apart:

If you have points, set the engine to #1TDC Compression (before or after pulling dist, no matter really).
Set the engine ACTUALLY to 8 or 10* BTDC (firing point).
Stab the dist. with the rotor pointed toward the #1 plug wire, leave clamp slightly loose.
Put timing light on plug wire and turn it and ignition on.
Rotate dist. to get points to break and JUST fire the spark. Work with it a bit to get comfy with it.
Tighten down exactly at spark break point. Will be VERY close when started.

With elec. ign, set the engine and dist same as above, then crank (with all plug wires off but #1 with ign. energized. You can follow the timing light indication just as if the engine was idling.
 
#9 ·
It may take a few stabs, and a touch of fiddling with the oil pump drive cionnection to get the distrib. to drop in where needed, but it is easy enough to do.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Well, you can see how many Fords this Chevy guy has taken apart. LOL.

Thx for the correction guys. I'll try to remember it.
 
#13 ·
Thats for helping me out guys! I'll have more newbie questions as I get further! Feel free to tell me to shut up anytime! LOL Thanks again guys

Eric
 
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