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Safely removing my boat from the trailer

  1. #15
    Senior Member Red Rocket's Avatar
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    Just picked it from the balance point.
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  3. #16
    Senior Member River Dad's Avatar
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    That's what I figured, Just looked funny...... The nose on that thing probably doesn't weigh much
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  4. #17
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    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  6. #18
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    couple 2x4's chopped up and stacked like lincoln logs makes a great stand for a boat. id rather have it sitting on that than hanging in the air.



    i put the trailer tongue all the way on the ground, which lifts the rear. put a stack under the rear then raise the front up. hold it in the air with a cherry picker and pull the trailer out.
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  7. #19
    Junior Member oldsbutgold's Avatar
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    Don't mean to jack the thread, but would any of these methods be safe to use with a 21ft mini daycruiser? With engine installed?
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  8. #20
    My only boat since 1975
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldsbutgold View Post
    Don't mean to jack the thread, but would any of these methods be safe to use with a 21ft mini daycruiser? With engine installed?
    Be wary of lifting a heavy hull (21' mini cruiser) by the engine. You're lifting the hull by placing the stringer to hull interface (bonding) in tensile (pulling). The weight of the hull will be on this bond. Stringer to hull bond is normally in compression, the weight of the engine is distributed into the hull by the stringers.

    I've seen some "entry level" hulls where there is no glass cloth utilized over the stringers to hull at all. The stringers are 'glued' to the hull. Even if the bond itself doesn't fail in tensile, the wood of the stringer may shear right at the bond.

    With a lightweight race hull, or well built full stringer boat designed for high horsepower where the stringer is encapsulated to the hull with multiple layups of cloth, lifting by the engine is fine. For a less well built heavy hull day cruiser with short stringers, carefully asses the stringer to hull bond, and how much that bond is capable of lifting.

    If the weight of the hull and rigging exceeds that of the engine itself, I'd probably want to jack the boat off the trailer, support it with cribbing at the stern and a cherry picker at the bow and pull the trailer out in stages, re-positioning cribbing as you go.
    Last edited by 70 Weiman; 09-24-2014 at 01:34 PM.
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  9. #21
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    That makes sense. I actually just planned to take enough weight off to allow me to pull the boat out from under the hull a couple feet so I can put a stand under it. It's a sanger hull, should be soundly built, but it is only 1/4 stringer heavier model, 18' 1975 super jet.
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  10. #22
    Junior Member oldsbutgold's Avatar
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    Is there a good way to spread the load when jacking, or is that necessary? And my 21ft is full stringer.
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  11. #23
    My only boat since 1975
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldsbutgold View Post
    Is there a good way to spread the load when jacking, or is that necessary?
    It's necessary. Think about the loadings. When the boat is in the water the weight of the boat is spread out over the entire surface of the hull that is in the water. When it is on the trailer, the weight is transferred into the bunks and rollers. The bunks are usually positioned as closely as possible to being right under the stringers, that have the weight of the engine and rigging on them, so the weight is transferred right into the trailer, and not carried by the hull. The rollers are placed on the keel, which is strong both as a shape, and structurally with some additional lammies on the v for strength when beaching.

    If I were picking jack points without looking at the boat myself, I would suggest as close to or right under the transom where the stringers intersect it. If that isn't possible because of trailer interference, the chines at the transom would be my second choice. Jack up one corner, place blocks on the bunk at the transom, let it down, then jack up the other corner and block it on the bunk. Now maybe you can get a jack under the transom at the stringers. Or rig a sling to a 2-post lift or multiple engine hoists.

    You can't position a jack just anywhere without risking damaging the hull on a fully-rigged, heavy boat like a mini-cruiser. In the water, a 3,000lb boat may have say 200SqFt of area in the water for a loading of 15 lbs per square foot. You put a 4X4" jack pad just anywhere near the stern the loading could be 18,000 lbs per sq foot to lift 2,000 lbs, if 1,000 pounds of the boat is resting on the bow roller. The structure isn't designed to carry that loading.

    There's some ideas. Just think about what your looking at. Imagine where the loads are, and how much weight is being lifted.
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  12. #24
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    Ive had luck with slings. I had a local rigging company make 4" wide straps with loops (like tow straps) for like $80 rated @6600# , and a 1.5" rated at 1500 to go thru the front eye. I used Blocks on the corners and under the front keel. Lots of weight like weiman said. Mine was Eliminator 250 eagle. Go slow, think it thru.
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  13. #25
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    Just did mine Saturday
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