Mallory YL670AV Breaker Point Ignition BBC454
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Mallory YL670AV Breaker Point Ignition BBC454

  1. #1
    Senior Member SkyHarborCowboy's Avatar
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    Default Mallory YL670AV Breaker Point Ignition BBC454

    It has been at least 20 years since I messed with a points ignition. If any of you have any tips other then buy an electronic distributor (that will come in time) I am all ears.

    My friends boat has sat for a long time and I am trying to get it running again. Can you guys clue me in on how to troubleshoot the ignition system. Twenty years ago I could have done this in my sleep but time marches on and my memory isnt all that great.

    Here is the set up.

    Mallory YL670AV Single Point distributor, Coil with External Ballast Resistor, solid core plug wires.

    What I need to know are:

    With ignition key to ON position:
    Should I have:
    1. Battery voltage at the Distributor wire going to the points and condensor?
    2. Battery Voltage at the Ballast Resistor

    Ballast Resistor should have how much resistance when its isolated?

    Battery voltage at the coil+ should be what with the points opened and closed?

    Thanks,

    Joe
    Thanks,

    Joe
    1988 Commander BBC454 Berkley JE-A with A-Impeller

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  3. #2
    Senior Member SkyHarborCowboy's Avatar
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    What should the point gap and dwell be?

    Joe
    Thanks,

    Joe
    1988 Commander BBC454 Berkley JE-A with A-Impeller

  4. #3
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Default

    Something to consider, less headache now, and less maintaince worries in the future.

    http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=3605


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  6. #4
    Senior Member SkyHarborCowboy's Avatar
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    They dont make one for this distributor and I am just trying to get the boat running right now. As my first post says I am already planning on an electronic distributor but am just trying to get this engine running for now.

    Joe
    Thanks,

    Joe
    1988 Commander BBC454 Berkley JE-A with A-Impeller

  7. #5
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    Default Single?

    Quote Originally Posted by SkyHarborCowboy View Post
    What should the point gap and dwell be?

    Joe
    Single point: .017-.019.....018 is best. That point gap should give you about 30 degrees dwell...(28*-32*)..........30* being best........

    Ballast battery side should read 12V w/ ign on. The coil side will vary, but at least 9V while running, not cranking. The solenoid wire, the third one, small outside one, should be directly to the plus side of the coil. This connection bypasses the ballast volt drop while cranking only.......(may not need it, but cold starts do require hot spark).

    Dual points are different!!!.............Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

  8. #6
    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkyHarborCowboy View Post
    They dont make one for this distributor and I am just trying to get the boat running right now. As my first post says I am already planning on an electronic distributor but am just trying to get this engine running for now.

    Joe
    Hey Joe, Gap on that should be .017 dwell should be 28 to 32. If the coil is a none ballast style then run the power source thru the ballast and then to the positive side of the coil. Negative side to the distributor. Watch the points in those cause they are prone to ground out on the tension strap on the point set. Condenser should be external and a cheap buy to eliminate that possibility. If you have a test light ground the clip end and hold the probe to the negative side of the coil. Crank the motor and the probe should blink as the motor rotates. If so look elsewere. M

  9. #7
    Senior Member SkyHarborCowboy's Avatar
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    I am replacing the points and condenser just to start from new. The DAMN Mallory replacement points do not come with a wire to tie it to the points and uses a 3/16 spade connector so I am off to the parts store now. I also noticed that there was a purple wire that was disconnected under one of my exhaust logs and the ONLY available place for it to hook into is the back of the alternator that has a yellow wire that says A/C Tap on the back of the alternator. I put a test lamp to the coil and with the ignition "ON" I have power to the coil. I havent tried it with the ignition to Start but am beginning to think that the purple wire to the alternator may have something to do with the "START" portion of the ignition swithch somehow. Multi-Meter quit working on me so I am not sure where it leads to yet.

    Joe
    Thanks,

    Joe
    1988 Commander BBC454 Berkley JE-A with A-Impeller

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