I think it should be ok. Assuming your trailer was supporting it correctly in the pasy, you want to configure your dolly or stands to mirror the trailer bunk configuration. I see and engine on the floor in 1 of the pics. I assume it's the engine out of the boat?
is the weight of the hull bearing on the suspension straps or the crates? If on the crates I would place some 2x4's under the strakes just as the trailer bunks do. At least the weight of the hull won't be on the outer edge of the strakes in the couple places it appears to be in the photos. With a bare hull just blocks under the strakes where the stringers are located should be fine.
Kool, you should be golden. Nice work on the boxes, really stout. Nice lookin boat too by the way. I have the angle iron, steps and fender assemblies that attach the axles to the frame rails from my competetive trailer if they would be of help to you. Also the tail light sections with the flat top plate. You can have them. They will go to scrap eventually otherwise. I did a complete remod on my trailer over the summer and made recessed led tail and marker lights, stainless fenders, removable tongue etc.
thanks for the offer.yes I could use that stuff.but I picked up the angle iron.and that section where the fenders bolt on is rusted.i had some C channel made to cap that area.i guess the rite way would be to cut it out.my welding skills aren't that good though.so I grinded it to good steel will paint it weld the cap over it.where are you located im in sacramento prob to far to pick up.thanks
I'm in Diamond Bar, L.A. County near the intersection of the 60 fwy and 57 fwy's. There's peeps here on the boards that run back and forth from here to there or beyond on a fairly regular basis that may be able to help out with getting these parts to you. One problem you will likely encounter with the capping method (if on the outside of frame rails) is it will change the width of the trailer and your spring perches won't fit to the leaf spring eye's, too wide. If you cap (or plate) on the inside it won't effect the width. Mine was rust pitted pretty good but not broke anywhere. I made new steps and used larger/heavier angle iron to weld the steps to and support the frame rails. I also added bolting from the original 3 bolts to 8 bolt per side. My angle/step assembly is 101" long so it supports the c-frame further out. Here's a suggestion if ya don't mind.... most of the expense in paying someone to do this work is in the prep and set up, if you do all that yourself, have it tacked and ready to weld you could hire a welder to come by and burn it in for you if you feel your skills are not up to the task. There are also several welding forums where you can go to learn more, ask questions and maybe find someone local to you to help you out. If you have questions regarding welding or such ask away and I'll do what I can to help you out. I've been welding since I was old enough to pee and I've been peeing a reaally long time now. haha I've taught many people that worked for me to weld and fabricate as well.
ok I just took another look.spring hangers are welded to the angle iron that is now 1/4in the u bolts are on the axles.the width of the trailer grows 3/16 or more from the cap.so you move the u bolts in that much to fit the frame.just looked I have 3 to 4 inches till it hits the spindle or brake hub.am I missing something ?? will post pics this weekend.i cut out a peace of the outer frame and took it to the steel shop so they know what were working with.as far as welding I have a wire feed so the only thing I don't trust myself welding will be the spring hangers onto the angle.dont want to see a axle pass me up.the outer frame that im capping I have ground most the rust off of so I will not cut it out.the pease I cut out to take to the shop is in the back.theres about 6/7 feet that's bad.where fenders mount.caps 10 feet welding in to solid metal.thank you very much for the offer on the fender set up.but I should have it replaced in the next week or so.