Header control valve?
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Header control valve?

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    Senior Member Luckie Stiff's Avatar
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    Default Header control valve?

    If I run a control valve for my headers, like the one Rex sells, do I still need to run the Bassett tee? I'm going to re plumb the hallett, I want to add a pressure relief valve and a header valve, also what is the general consensus on thermostat kits? My boat runs @ 130* all damn day, I'd like to push it up to 180* or 195*, seems the t-stat is the only way to do it, or am I missing something? Thanks

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Skip we always recommend ,and when rigging to install a manual lever ball valve or billet (similar to what you showed) after the water source to the headers and before the Bassett or "Rewarder" pressure T valve. The manual valve provides a positive shut off for the header water to turn off water completetly a low RPM , 5 zones,high speed runs and in the event the "pressure valve" gets fouled or fails not to mention IMO ,your headers need to "dry out" completely under 1200 rpms , all my boats have header water running to near the drivers seat for easy access then back to the injection T , call me if you need a diagram Tom

    ps we also use/sell a 12v electric solenoid operated "positive shut off' valve for this "fail safe" as well

    RE the Tsat set up, we use them occasionally , but dont in all circumstances , personal preferance and "applicational"

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    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luckie Stiff View Post
    If I run a control valve for my headers, like the one Rex sells, do I still need to run the Bassett tee? I'm going to re plumb the hallett, I want to add a pressure relief valve and a header valve, also what is the general consensus on thermostat kits? My boat runs @ 130* all damn day, I'd like to push it up to 180* or 195*, seems the t-stat is the only way to do it, or am I missing something? Thanks

    Skip
    With a header control valve you do not run the T valve since you now have manual control of the header water. The T-valve is supposed to make the header water automatic, but with manual control you won't need it.

    As far as the T-stat, the 180* t-stat SHOULD push you up to about 160-170* range. I run the 160* one and it gets mine around 140-150*. They work great and honestly I won't plumb any boat without one. One common mistake that is made with the t-stat is that people forget that you have to run the water full on and unrestricted from the pump for it to work properly (no gate valve...replace with a ball valve for an emergency in case you blow a hose or something, but run it full on). If you don't, you will have huge temperature spikes/fluctuations, just like what your car does when it's low on coolant due to not having enough water flowing through the system. As long as you have the water from the pump fully on, your temperature will remain constant for the most part, with about a 5* fluctuation at the most.

    However, the beauty of running one is that you will get a consistent temperature everytime no matter what, and set up properly with the bypass pressure relief valve, you will end up with absolutely no water in the oil. The pressure relief allows you to run the water from the pump unrestricted without blowing gaskets. Running like this, the block will run WAY too cold. The purpose of the thermostat is to raise the temp of the motor up without restricting water from the pump.
    Last edited by Jetaholic; 01-18-2009 at 09:18 AM.



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    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetaholic View Post
    With a header control valve you do not run the T valve since you now have manual control of the header water. The T-valve is supposed to make the header water automatic, but with manual control you won't need it.
    But without the Bassett T-valve you'll have to remember to turn the manual valve on and off every time you want water to the headers, and not forget to turn it off every time you let off the gas to keep water from getting into the cylinders.


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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    I've gotta think(but I do not know) that the bassett valve is more that just an "on-off" thing. Doesn't it also regulate the amount when it is on? Seems like without it you'd put to much water to the injection lines. I dunno, just thinking out loud.
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    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    I've gotta think(but I do not know) that the bassett valve is more that just an "on-off" thing. Doesn't it also regulate the amount when it is on? Seems like without it you'd put to much water to the injection lines. I dunno, just thinking out loud.
    I believe the Bassett instructions say to limit the incoming water from the jet to adjust total water to the headers.
    I refuse to do that, so I run the manual lever by the driver seat. BUT!! I HAVE forgotten to turn it on or off also. Not good to forget.
    I also am thinking of running the T valve after the lever this time around to see if I can make it work. I figure that way it will at least shut the water to the headers down if I forget to turn it off.
    BTW, I ran a bypass at around 15 PSI at the jet that dumps overboard, so I believe that helped from putting too much water at the headers without the T. You can also "jet down" the tubes at the headers.
    Last edited by thatguy; 01-18-2009 at 10:29 AM.
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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    water injected headers need only a very small amount of water to stay "cool",reduce discoloring and work as designed , too much water can not only risk reversion but will also rob HP , and once more having the Tvalve in place is a "failsafe" , I will always run both Tom

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    Run 'em dry and fill the block with concrete!

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    Jackwagon Patrolman Rexone's Avatar
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    Banderlogs work well

    Bassett T is simply a ball and spring on a seat operated by pressure (bypass valve design basically). Pressure pushes the ball off the seat against the spring and allows water flow. I've seen the run both way described above. Make sure you have restricted fittings in the header lines. Some of the real old ones were wide open 8 to 8 (AN 815-8) unions. Too much water as Tom has mentioned, it takes very little, you should have vapor or steam only, no big water droplets out the back.

    We also sell jets in .080, .100, and .120 if you have too much water with the stock Bassett type restrictor fittings (.125 hole). You can drill and tap a 815-8 union with a 7/16-20 thread and screw these jets right in. If you're into fine tuning the amount of water this is an option.

    One more little tip on header water while we're on the subject. Make sure your little weep holes are clear at the bottom of the bend. If these get clogged up with rust and crap you can suck water from reversion at idle. These are very small holes and clog easily.

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    I run a MSD window switch to an electronic solenoid(sp?) The window switch is preset around 1200rpm and tells the solenoid when to open and close. Has worked flawless so far with many trips

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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod56cars View Post
    fill the block with concrete!
    ya know, thats not as funny as it sounds!...i ran my SBC dragster motor dry with that chit u put in the block...only water was head water & u flush & cool them down after every run...n/p...this prob would work in a 1/4 mile drag boat & i'm sure its been tried!, but not in a pleasure boat

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    Senior Member CP598's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue View Post
    I run a MSD window switch to an electronic solenoid(sp?) The window switch is preset around 1200rpm and tells the solenoid when to open and close. Has worked flawless so far with many trips
    This is how I do it as well.

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    Classic Hotboater! GasGuzzler's Avatar
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    Yep, go banderlog and you will never go back........plus no water lines to the front seat.

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