Bowl Removal -- Broken Bolt
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Bowl Removal -- Broken Bolt

  1. #1
    huh? robk's Avatar
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    Default Bowl Removal -- Broken Bolt

    As I was pulling the bowl off my pump last week to inspect the impeller clearances, seals, etc one of the 1/2" bolts that holds the bowl onto the suction housing gave me some trouble. After soaking it for hours in penetrating oil it would still not budge and after resorting to a breaker bar, the head broke off.

    Now, there is about 7/16" of bolt shank sticking out of the bowl but I'm not sure of the way to remove it. In the past it's always been drill it out and stick a helicoil in but it seems like it would be really easy to damage the sealing surface of the bowl trying to drill out such a large bolt. Also not sure how the helicoil will stand up.

    Any thoughts on the best way to go about repairing this?

    Rob

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  3. #2
    Driver 78CoLeBBF's Avatar
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    try a little heat on the bowl around the bolt
    Its a FORD thing chevy's arent quick enough to understand

  4. #3
    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    It will now be easier to soak with pennetrating oil, try that first, then heat with a blow-dryer next.
    Aluminum melts arround 1100 degrees, be careful with a heat gun.

    Third is drill out as large as possible and EZ-Out it.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
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    The rest of us are being dragged along kicking and screaming.

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    Senior Member SkyHarborCowboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmokinLowriderSS View Post
    It will now be easier to soak with pennetrating oil, try that first,
    The best mix is 50/50 Acetone and ATF. Let it soak and then give it a try. I would also give it a few wacks with a brass drift punch to help loose the corrosion that is in there that caused the bolt to hang up in the first place.

    Joe
    Thanks,

    Joe
    1988 Commander BBC454 Berkley JE-A with A-Impeller

  7. #5
    huh? robk's Avatar
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    I supposed I should add that it's been soaked since removing the bowl with no luck; tried a little heat (didn't want to get it too hot and damage the paint); and as SkyHarbor suggested, whacked it a few times with no luck.

    When I first tried to remove it it turned about 1/4 turn but then quickly got very hard (at which point I began the pen oil treatment) -- a few of the other bowl bolts galled the bowl slightly when removed so I have a feeling this one must have really galled the aluminum and jammed itself in. It won't turn back in either.

    I think removal by drilling is probably the only option left but I'll try one more overnight soak with either pen oil or the ATF/acetone mix and see what happens.

    Thanks for all the tips guys.

    Rob

  8. #6
    CANT RE MEMBER FARMER JOHN's Avatar
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    Default Wax On Wax Off

    one of the tricks i've used is heating the bolt up and hold a candle or somthing made of wax to it and as it melts it will pull into the threads, good luck

  9. #7
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    My favorite trick is to get a hex nut in this case 1/2"
    and place it onto the broken bolt then weld it to the bolt from the inside of the nut, pour cold water on the bolt not the nut. then you have a nut to unscrew it with.
    the heat helps loosen things up.
    #55

  10. #8
    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    7/16 is quite a bit. If all else fails(heat, oil. ect) May even be able to hit it with a die, spin a nut on and hit the nut/bolt with a weld and try again? Just thinking outloud. Maybe the oil will be kicked in by then. Good luck
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    You will need to work it back and forth, gently going a little further each time, the aluminum is oxidization is holding it like fish scales backwards.

    We have a tool that is similar to an arc welder that electrically arc's the bolt out of the hole without destroying the threads, the problem is it needs to have continuity with the surrounding material, Berkeley and Dominator jetpumps seem to be the only ones that don't conduct.

    A good machine shop can have that bolt out in about an hour, might be worth it. If you know someone with a mill, they could clamp this thing down and mill the bolt out perfectly straight, worth it IMO.

    GT
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    PB Blaster is your friend...a couple shots over a few days should do the trick.
    PB easily walked out 21 year old injectors(never touched prior) from my diesel engine.
    Welding a nut to the busted stud is another great option...if you have a welder.
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

  13. #11
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    If your interested in sending it up UPS we'll do the repair in the Mill (inexpensive) or possibly consider an exchange bowl .. Tom

  14. #12
    huh? robk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw
    My favorite trick is to get a hex nut in this case 1/2"
    and place it onto the broken bolt then weld it to the bolt from the inside of the nut, pour cold water on the bolt not the nut. then you have a nut to unscrew it with.
    the heat helps loosen things up.
    Quote Originally Posted by H2OMOFO
    7/16 is quite a bit. If all else fails(heat, oil. ect) May even be able to hit it with a die, spin a nut on and hit the nut/bolt with a weld and try again? Just thinking outloud. Maybe the oil will be kicked in by then. Good luck
    Quote Originally Posted by GT Jets
    You will need to work it back and forth, gently going a little further each time, the aluminum is oxidization is holding it like fish scales backwards.

    We have a tool that is similar to an arc welder that electrically arc's the bolt out of the hole without destroying the threads, the problem is it needs to have continuity with the surrounding material, Berkeley and Dominator jetpumps seem to be the only ones that don't conduct.

    A good machine shop can have that bolt out in about an hour, might be worth it. If you know someone with a mill, they could clamp this thing down and mill the bolt out perfectly straight, worth it IMO.

    GT
    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown
    PB Blaster is your friend...a couple shots over a few days should do the trick.
    PB easily walked out 21 year old injectors(never touched prior) from my diesel engine.
    Welding a nut to the busted stud is another great option...if you have a welder.
    Thanks again for all the suggestions... I'll try some more soaking with the acetone/ATF mix and try welding a nut on there as well to see if I can work it out that way.

    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance
    If your interested in sending it up UPS we'll do the repair in the Mill (inexpensive) or possibly consider an exchange bowl .. Tom
    If I can't get this thing out one my own I'll give you a call, Tom.

    Rob

  15. #13
    Senior Member SkyHarborCowboy's Avatar
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    I have a question about using the bolts in the first place. What is wrong with replacing the bolts with some high quality studs and nuts instead? I know there is quite a bit of tension placed on those bolt due to the pump/nozzle pressure so I just wanted to see what you experts think.

    Joe
    Thanks,

    Joe
    1988 Commander BBC454 Berkley JE-A with A-Impeller

  16. #14
    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkyHarborCowboy View Post
    I have a question about using the bolts in the first place. What is wrong with replacing the bolts with some high quality studs and nuts instead? I know there is quite a bit of tension placed on those bolt due to the pump/nozzle pressure so I just wanted to see what you experts think.

    Joe
    I think studs would be plenty strong, but a pain in the arse to get apart, my JG is double drilled and I use allen headed SS bolts, good looks and bulletproof.

    GT
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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