Transom Housing ? on Biesemeyer
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 36

Thread:
Transom Housing ? on Biesemeyer

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    31

    Default Transom Housing ? on Biesemeyer

    Newbie to the forum with what may be an ignorant question..

    Can anyone steer me in the direction that I might locate a transom housing that would work with this setup, or am I gonna need to just fab something to fit ? I'm certainly no stranger to a project or two, but to be honest as far as Jets are concerned I've done a whole lot more burning gas in them than working on pump setup...

    I'm just now in the "mock up" stages of this 18 Biesemeyer with a Berkeley 12jr and I certanly dont mind fabbing something up nice to fill the void from the bowl to the transom, but also don't wanna spend a fairly decent amount of time cutting, fitting, welding, ect..ect.. for something I can pick up fairly resonable if possible ?

    I can pull any measurements needed, and can get the angles as well.. I have a couple of what I would call standard Berkeley transom housings but they are quite a bit different.. The pump is setback as far as you can set it without cutting any of the lower edge of the transom so the ones I have are not only to short but are definitely not made for a flat transom either... Also as you can see by the silocone line in one of the pics, the one that was on this boat at some point was tappered at the bottom and not as square the other two housings that I have... Also what I'm calling the "standard ones I have" for lack of better terms, hang down below the bottom of the boat on the lower corners of the housing... (Mount holes are different too)

    Anyways any direction that I might get to someone that may have something off the shelf that might work, ect... please fire away.... And ifnot I guess I'll start dragging out tools & material...

    ** And on a side note I'm assuming the cleanout is gonna be a bit of a pain to get to, so any wise idears there are more than welcome **

    Thanks !!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Biesemeyer Pump Mockup 1.jpg 
Views:	66 
Size:	10.9 KB 
ID:	764265   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Biesemeyer1.jpg 
Views:	63 
Size:	12.9 KB 
ID:	764273  

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member BGMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    568

    Default

    Did it have a Jacuzzi pump in it before?

  4. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Mine is setup very similar. It has essentially, a custom "deep" transom housing fabricated by cutting the flange from the face and welding in a rectangular ring to fill that gap, which puts the cleanout (at least on a JC pump) inside the housing and renders it useless. Kind of a PITA, but it is what it is I guess.

    My transom is a bit taller though, so not sure what to tell you about the bottom.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    31

    Default

    I can't say for sure exactly how it was setup previously but I'm pretty sure it didn't have a jacuzzi on it

  7. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    31

    Default

    (77marlin..). Yeah what you describe as far as cutting the transom housing is pretty much what I've had in mind that I'll probably have to do.. I actually have a housing that's been cut on some already and if that's indeed what I have to do then I'll probably just use the "round ring part" and fab from there to the transom because the square part that meets up against the transom fits very poorly on the bottom.. And yeah feared the clean out issues..

    Do you have any pics of your pump that you can post ?

  8. #6
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Diamond Bar, Big River
    Posts
    1,145

    Default

    Welcome to the boards.....bust out the tools and start fab'n bro. haha That Bieser hull bottom looks bitchen. That definitely looks like a one off deal especially with a recess cup for the hand hole clean out access. Most peeps use 1/4" alum plate for the main transom plate to suction housing seal area. Peeps have been pretty creative with fabricating a boxed alum. recess niche behind the hole to allow access from outside the boat. Yours looks like it may be a little tight by the height of the transom, you may have to do some shaving there. Nothing like the feeling of hacking away on the structural integrity of your boat. haha There's quite a few pics in various threads to see for examples but if you're a experienced fabricator you will be able to figure out what you need to do for your specific conditions. On a setback application, I prefer a 2 piece plate system. The main larger plate basically permanently (3m 5200 silicone) seals the transom and reduces the large transom opening to a reasonable size necessary for easy removal of the suction housing ( for general maint./changes/repairs etc.) to accept a smaller plate that seals to the shape of the suction housing leaving a max gap of 1/16" between edge of plate and casting surface. I like a little silicone to pass thru and then seal from inside of hull as well. With good power these things can move quite a bit breaking the seal and causing pesky leaks down the road. I use 3m 4200 silicone for the plate to plate seals and suction seal. It's tough shit but allows for removal with careful effort. Your secondary plate may include the fabricated box notch delio but I'm not seeing clearly how that will as I type. I guess it depends on if your secondary plate reaches between the flanges on the intake adapter. If you fill between the I.A. flanges with a welded or epoxied in place block (could include transom drains as well prolly 1/2" pipe plug size) you should be able to use a 2 piece system because the bottom portion of the plate will be wide enough for a vertical/forward removal once the seal is relieved. If you are going to be removing the I.A. for machining for a shoe and ride plate (making assumption here) then that would be a perfect time to weld in the blocks between the flanges. That also makes for a better, cleaner, sealing of the transom plates in my opinion. I hope this helps. Good luck, have fun and getter done. Lookin forward to seeing how you address this.

  9. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Little Dc's Rod Shop View Post
    (77marlin..). Yeah what you describe as far as cutting the transom housing is pretty much what I've had in mind that I'll probably have to do.. I actually have a housing that's been cut on some already and if that's indeed what I have to do then I'll probably just use the "round ring part" and fab from there to the transom because the square part that meets up against the transom fits very poorly on the bottom.. And yeah feared the clean out issues..

    Do you have any pics of your pump that you can post ?
    My float is at the lake ...and I'm not ...lol. I can get you some pics this weekend if that helps.

    FWIW, I have learned to embrace doing my "cleanout" from the bottom side. I have had to limp back to the boat launch and load it back on the trailer so I could get at it from the bottom, but only twice have I had to do that.

  10. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Jetjunky: Thanks for the detailed info.. I'm with you up till: [QUOTE I guess it depends on if your secondary plate reaches between the flanges on the intake adapter. If you fill between the I.A. flanges with a welded or epoxied in place block (could include transom drains as well prolly 1/2" pipe plug size) you should be able to use a 2 piece system because the bottom portion of the plate will be wide enough for a vertical/forward removal once the seal is relieved. If you are going to be removing the I.A. for machining for a shoe and ride plate (making assumption here) then that would be a perfect time to weld in the blocks between the flanges. That also makes for a better, cleaner, sealing of the transom plates in my opinion.[/QUOTE]

    I can shoot some better pics I'd need be... I have a shoe that fits it nicely but no ride plate, and to be honest wasn't sure if I needed a ride plate or not ? Ifso then yeah I thought this would be a good time to incorporate one.. Feel free to post any pics, talk to me like a 3rd grader, just whatever.. Haha!!

    Thanks for the welcome, and yeah I'm not familiar with how many of these hulls were built, although I seen a pic of a nice orange & white one a few days ago while searching around.. Although it's been a good while, I grew up around jets & v-drives and had never personally seen a Biesemeyer that wasn't a v-drive until I ended up with two ;-).. The other hull is not a "modified v or tunnel" whatever you would wanna call it, just a standard v

  11. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    31

    Default

    77marlin.. Yeah, I would love to see some pics of your setup when get a chance

  12. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    31

    Default

    I'm also not completely against setting the pump back a little further and obviously filling the hull itself in order to get the clean out all the way out of the hull, and if there are any other advantages to it as far as handling goes.., also I'm just getting into this so I've not even measured how far I can go back as far as the rear of the engine & hull clearance goes.. A couple extra inches of interior room sure wouldn't be bad to have.. I'm gonna try to squeeze a small bench in the rear of some sort for the kiddo's...

    However that being said I'm near clueless on how these hulls handle with what, how much setback they like, ect.. ect.. So just tossing around some idea's

  13. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    31

    Default

    When I said "filling the hull" I obviously ment re-glassing the area in the floor from moving the intake area back.. ;-)

  14. #12
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Diamond Bar, Big River
    Posts
    1,145

    Default

    I guess the foremost question at this point in the game is.. what are your intended plans for the boat? What kind of power and speed are you planning for it? If it already has a shoe then adding a ride plate should be easy meaning...machine 1/4" recess in shoe for ride plate, drill and tap holes to mount. The ride plates just extends the keel running surface a little further back and gives you more tuning capabilities and ride stability. ( helps with porpoise issues, makes the boat act like a little bigger boat etc.) I would caution against moving the I.A. back just yet. It's a lot of work, gets pricey and can degrade the hulls structural integrity some by weakening the transom if you go "all out" so to speak. Depending on your plans/goals for the boats performance a set back pump doesn't necessarily mean you will gain cockpit space. To maintain hull balance the faster you want to go the further forward the motor needs to be. As I understand it, generally speaking the further back the pump is the higher the mph, the further forward (std./stock location) the quicker (e.t.) the boat will go. It might be a good idea to take a momentary step back and establish a complete evaluation of your intended plans for the boat, budget etc. and then research and gain as much knowledge as to how to most effectively achieve your desired goals both performance and budget wise. Since that particular hull (As far as I know, which accounts for little) doesn't have a great deal of obvious history, (easily/readily obtained info.) You may want to search around for the guidance of someone who has a great deal of knowledge and experience in general in hull set up (i.e. Jack Mc Clure @ MPD, Chris at B-1 etc. (Chris worked for Jack, was a great student and has a very successful record in his own endeavor now) and if possible someone with a proven history (? Jack @ MPD? He's older (history) and a no BS kind of guy) in setting that style of hull up because it sure as chit ain't me. lol We have just about come to the end of any usefulness I have. I'll see what I can do for pics. I hope this helps.
    PS- do you know the history of that particular hull? who built it, did the shoe mods, set the intake? hull bottom mods if any? keel work if any? That could be very helpful if you can get ligit info. Hearsay, not so much.

  15. #13
    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Diamond Bar, Big River
    Posts
    1,145

    Default

    It will be very helpful to get as may detailed, quality pics of the hull bottom, (keel and intake transition, strakes, chines etc.) and have as many measurements and angles as possible to assist in discussing your hull with the guru's. One important and specific angle that you could quickly obtain is the relationship of the intake adapter to keel angle as installed currently. One quick and easy way is to set the hull's keel level with a good level, next remove suction housing from I.A., clean surface of I.A. from any foreign material and set digital (calibrated) angle finder on I.A. mating flange surface to obtain intakes installed angle. Oh, and get the cast model #s off the I.A. too so you know who's/what your working with specifically. This info. will be useful whatever your plans for the boat.

  16. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    31

    Default

    I knew that question was coming.. That can be a broad one because I've not had to many projects that didn't morph into more.. Haha!!! I say that because I've not had this thing but a few days so just now really getting into planning stages...

    That being said I've got a couple ways that I could go with power as far as BBC or SBC.. With both having advantages & disadvantages without writing a story book, and that's 99% financial & time related as usual.. So for now I am strongly considering putting a mild SBC in it (for now) because I have a complete running one pretty much minus exhaust sitting here in the shop.. But also have most everything but a good crank, some basic machine work and "nick nacks" to put together a very nice & rather healthy SBC that could easily be swapped over whenever that time came... I also have the BBC option but I'm kinda leaning towards the "progressive" SBC option right now...

    So in another attempt to answer that for now I'm not looking for that last few MPH.. My intentions as they stand are for a fair weather family cruiser so to say..

    As for my setting the pump back further comment it was as much as anything coming from the side of a couple inches to better access the clean out.. And if something was gained from the effort then great, but just really more of an idea to toss out.. And Definetly not something I would just jump into blindfold from a research & having my ducks in a row standpoint by any means.. This is a personal project so as with anything else I've ever built for myself, budget is Always a big factor.. That doesn't mean slap a bunch of junk together for me, I just have to be as resourceful as possible..

    I have a fairly well equipped shop and have no issues with fabrication.. Any glass work would be done here in house with combinations of bi-ax, and or carbon (if need be) and all epoxy resin.. I keep allot of different projects going from customer work to personal junk.. As far as boats goes, I recently finished some work on a good customer & friends 20 Cole, a 399 Skater V, and an ongoing 15 Allison project that I'd like to be giving some attention also.. I say all that to attempt to say that other than it being what feels like 125 degrees in here, and hardly ever having much time or money for my own personal projects the labor is not an issue.. Haha !!!!

    Thanks so much for All the suggestions & wisdom so far !!! I know this stuff takes time so it's well appreciated and will be well soaked in.. ;-)

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95