Bulk Wire Management.
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Bulk Wire Management.

  1. #1
    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    Default Bulk Wire Management.

    How are you guys handling your main power feeds? Right now i have postitive comming off the battery going to the starter, along with the bildge positive feed. I then have another feed that comes off the starter that goes to the alt. The alt also has a feed from the MSD box, and another feed that runs to a panel on the dash. On my fuel pump also connects to the starter... or the alt, i cant remember but either way...

    I have 6 connections for just positive, my neg is just as bad, but alittle easier to manage because of just being able to connect them anywhere on the block and being able to stack them on a long bolt.

    All my other wiring is great and clean, but distributing the main feed it the problem, I would just put a small bus bar or somthing but i dont want to leave it exposed, anybody know of somthing nice that is covered?

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  3. #2
    Half a bubble off jrork's Avatar
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    Shaun,
    For what it's worth, I'll be the first to post. This is what I did.

    For the boat electrical,
    * A fused positive lead from the battery to a terminal block that I epoxied onto transom as high and out of the way as possible on my boat (appears similar to yours).
    * A ground lead from the battery to a terminal on the opposite end of the terminal block.

    * From there I run up to the front of the boat with my wires to a ground terminal block and a fused panel that are epoxied underneath the deck. From there I feed all my electricals.

    For the engine electrical, I ran,
    * A positive lead from the battery post to the post on the starter
    * A short positive lead from the starter to the alternator (same side of the motor)

    * A ground lead from the negative post of the battery to a engine bellhousing bolt that serves as a common ground post for the engine
    * I then ran separate ground wires from the alternator & starter to that ground post on the engine.

    This is the second iteration for this method as I just copied why I had done a number of years ago and it worked so well, I just went back to it when I rewired again this past year.

    Here's some pics to maybe do a better job of describing what I did. The wire from the Starter to the Alt is sheathed in an old NO2 hose that I modified since it sticks out so much.


    The bracket that you see my coil mounted to serves as my grounding buss. The cables and separate grounds are hidden from view but hopefully you get the idea.



    And if you pardon the mess it shows you how I did the block and box (and no, you bunch of pr1cks, that is not how it was finally finished). I was in process...


  4. #3
    Senior Member fleetimus's Avatar
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    Ditto for starter and alternator. Everything else is on two Buss poles under the box. I wanted all the electrical in one spot.


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  6. #4
    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    On my last boat I ran everything under the motor rails. I used some 1 inch X 1/4 inch grommets to protect. From the terminal shown, wires drop down through the rail, back about 2 feet(clamped along the way) then back through and run along the rear bell housing clamped to the block. Was very clean and easy to pull motor.




  7. #5
    B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike 396_Ways_To_Spit's Avatar
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    Damn Jrork! Thats some clean rigging there brotha! You have anymore pics?
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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Ground is 2-ga cable to a cleaned location under a belhousing bilt.
    System ground is 2 terminals on the ends of the terminal strip. This has 2 12-ga wires to bolts on the back of the heads, and both ends of the 12-gauge ground loop for the dash (up the driver's side, back down the pass. side).

    I have a top-mount reverse wind starter, so a Ford-type starter relay.
    Battery + 2 gauge cable to the relay.
    + 2-ga output cable to the starter terminal (no kick-relay on starter)
    short 8-ga + feed to 50A circuit breaker on terminal strip.
    8-ga + from/to 1-wire alternator (70-amps), same terminal thus direct battery feed.

    From other side of C/B, 2 connections:
    10-ga feed to 3 separate terminals on terminal board for Bilge Fan, Bilge Pump Float Switch, and Lights.
    8-gauge feed to ignition switch (which also has a 30-A fuze in it). (8-gauge due to 20' length)

    The ign. switch feeds a fuze panel with the switched power for stereo, instruments, nitrous.

    Pretty much it, no pix.
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  9. #7
    Half a bubble off jrork's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 396_Ways_To_Spit View Post
    Damn Jrork! Thats some clean rigging there brotha! You have anymore pics?
    Mike, I'm betting you meant one of the others guys that posted but here's a thread of mine anyhow.

    http://www.performanceboats.com//showthread.php?t=28021

  10. #8
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    To help cut down on cable bulk, I run one heavy ground 8 ga. ground to the front. I bring all the dash/ sender grounds to this wire, rather than connecting the grounds via. the mounting bracket on the gauges. The sender wires, I like to keep them to a 22 ga. wire, and the gauge power, and tach with 20 ga. wire. The main power to the dash is an 8 ga. wire, to the ign switch/ fuse box. To the starter solenoid, keep the wire ga. size up to a 10 ga. if you do not use a slave relay for the starter.


    At the back of the boat, wires can add up real quick, I like to keep the grounds to a common point, one point in the dash, and one at the back. So I bring an 8 ga. wire from the engine ground, to the under side of the gunnel. I connect all the grounds from the back of the boat, the ground from the engine, and the ground wire going to the dash together. Connections are 1/4" ring tongue connectors, and fastened with a 1/4 inch stainless screw and nyloc nut. This can now be taped up or tied up under the gunnel.


    The power connections, such as starter, alt, msd box, can be common point fastened to a junction post or battery switch. This leaves the engine wiring, oil pres, oil temp, water temp, water pressure, tach, ignition, starter, and possibly, alt field. These connection are by disconnect plugs, or terminal strips. Keeping connection points all together helps ease trouble shooting if a problem should arise.

    Depending on your type of boat, if you have anchor, nav, transom lights, electronic fuel pumps, and bilge pumps, your wiring can become very involved. Keep it simple, and well connected, and you will have lots of good times ahead.

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