Oil filter and oil??????
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Oil filter and oil??????

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    CODE8 code8's Avatar
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    Default Oil filter and oil??????

    I'm getting the boat ready for river season and have a couple of questions about oil. Are boat oil filters different from an automotive oil filter? I plan on changing my boat oil and was wondering if I could use a automotive oil filter instead of the marine power oil filter. The engine is a stock 350HP Marine Power 4800 used on a jetboat.

    Also, I have been using Synthetic Royal Purple 5w-30w oil. I really like it and will continue to use this bran. Do I need to add an oil additivie such as Lucas, Slick 50 or Zinc to the oil for better over all performance. Or is this overkill on a stock engine?

    tks guys..

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by code8 View Post
    I'm getting the boat ready for river season and have a couple of questions about oil. Are boat oil filters different from an automotive oil filter? I plan on changing my boat oil and was wondering if I could use a automotive oil filter instead of the marine power oil filter. The engine is a stock 350HP Marine Power 4800 used on a jetboat.

    Also, I have been using Synthetic Royal Purple 5w-30w oil. I really like it and will continue to use this bran. Do I need to add an oil additivie such as Lucas, Slick 50 or Zinc to the oil for better over all performance. Or is this overkill on a stock engine?

    tks guys..
    If your engine is a flat tappet deal, I would recommend racing oil, synthetic is fine (I am an Amsoil user), but still use the racing blends which tend to have the needed additional zinc compounds, as far as oil filters, other than some filters having some corrosion protective paint, there is no difference between marine and automotive IMO.

    GT
    GT


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    typically zinc is important in the flat tappet motors so oil is a important to longevity, tom at jbp sells brad penn which seems to be the cheapest of the good oils, filters for cars are fine, sorry for the short post but im sure you will soon have several opinions!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by GT Jets View Post
    If your engine is a flat tappet deal, I would recommend racing oil, synthetic is fine (I am an Amsoil user), but still use the racing blends which tend to have the needed additional zinc compounds, as far as oil filters, other than some filters having some corrosion protective paint, there is no difference between marine and automotive IMO.

    GT
    +1 for the Amsoil. I am a Brad Penn dealer and use it in a lot of applications, but I must say there is some type of magic in the Amsoil racing blend oil.
    As for filters there really is no difference IMO between marine, and auto.
    Where the difference lays is in the filters ability to filter, flow, and keep from bursting, most likely your OEM filter has a decent amount of media and built to some type of quality and performance standard. A cheap filter would be a big no no in any type of performance application like a boat. A quality filter such as a K & N or a Pureolator pure one would be a wise choice.
    Choose wisely, personally I like the K & N filters, I have used them in many applications including marine and have not had a single failure.
    There are a few things to look at when choosing a quality oil filter, but one of the keys is how much "element surface area" the filter has, this
    reflects on how well the filter will flow and filter without going into a constant bypass.

    If you want more info on filters read here:
    http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...ence.html#fram
    Last edited by SRP1; 02-22-2009 at 07:55 PM.
    Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting"....holy shit.... what a ride!"

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Penn, Torco ,R/Purple and Red Line among my Favs all have very high additive pkgs (and prices), Shell Rottella is good too for the budget minded, Have to be honest all my boats are currently on Torco ! Called Paul Paff (all around nice guy and Genius) and ask him what he used ,he said Torco since "wheels were square" or something like that , plenty good recommendation ! Its all about the zinc,moly and ... probably only a matter of time before thats outlawed too .. BTW may be coincidence but the only cam we lost in 25+ or so motors is when we tried Chevron Delo Tom

    Btw , never skip on the filter and we dont use synthetics , just personal preferance , like the dinosuar stuff

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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    It is WAY overkill on a stock engine to run a synthetic with any additives.

    I have been running a pretty aggressive flat tappet on Castrol Syntech for 4 years now (this one will be summer #5). Syntech and nothing else.

    Not a single oil-related issue (and few issues at all).

    I like the K&N Gold filters myself.
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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Any of the auto filters for your application are the same filter that works for a boat application. If you like Fram, use them. If you want a synthetic-media filter to match your syn oil, use Mobil-1 or K&N filters.

    Personally, I run Mobil-1 10/30 in the boat (496), as it is available at Costco. Easy to get and still looks happy after each season of use. Additives are pretty useless, as you have a roller cam and running a syn oil is already way better than any dino oil you would run. Whichever syn you like, run it and the filter that works for you.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    Red Blooded American The Doctor's Avatar
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    Update!
    Rotella and Delo which both still contained zinc do not any more! Thank the Government for saving us from unseen pollution and devastating results to flat tappet cam power plants!

    There are excellent recommendations here but without zinc, kiss your cam and lifters good by like we did last month. Plan on spending a bunch on your future oil changes if you intend to maintain the proper protection - whether you use the aforementioned recommended aftermarket oils or an appropriate additive.

    On another note, Fram filters were my favorite but we've changed our minds on that as well. Honeywell purchased them and a very good friend from the corporate side of the company instructed us to never purchase their products again. Very good advice as I had an entire case of HP4 Racing BBC filters recalled. We sent them back and they replaced them with the new/improved ones. Last week we ran the alcohol dragster at and lost a filter seal on the burnout along with 1/2 quart of oil. Yes, this was from the replacement filters they sent me due to the old ones having faulty o-ring seals. The company just plain sucks.

    I followed a link to a guy who cut open a couple dozen same-application filters to compare their contents and he suggested WIX, NAPA and Super-tech (yes the cheap Wal-Mart ones) as the very best designed, built filters on the market today. His test also found Fram to be the worst for about three different reasons? Go figure!
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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Doctor View Post
    Update!
    Rotella and Delo which both still contained zinc do not any more! Thank the Government for saving us from unseen pollution and devastating results to flat tappet cam power plants!

    There are excellent recommendations here but without zinc, kiss your cam and lifters good by like we did last month. Plan on spending a bunch on your future oil changes if you intend to maintain the proper protection - whether you use the aforementioned recommended aftermarket oils or an appropriate additive.

    On another note, Fram filters were my favorite but we've changed our minds on that as well. Honeywell purchased them and a very good friend from the corporate side of the company instructed us to never purchase their products again. Very good advice as I had an entire case of HP4 Racing BBC filters recalled. We sent them back and they replaced them with the new/improved ones. Last week we ran the alcohol dragster at and lost a filter seal on the burnout along with 1/2 quart of oil. Yes, this was from the replacement filters they sent me due to the old ones having faulty o-ring seals. The company just plain sucks.

    I followed a link to a guy who cut open a couple dozen same-application filters to compare their contents and he suggested WIX, NAPA and Super-tech (yes the cheap Wal-Mart ones) as the very best designed, built filters on the market today. His test also found Fram to be the worst for about three different reasons? Go figure!
    Unless you have a roller cam. No zinc necessary. Just so people know.

    I have never seen any first-hand physical proof as to the Fram thing. Dad always used Fram when I was growing up. Never lost a motor. I am not brand-specific, but Fram is usually easiest to get, so I generally use them also. Never had a problem. I noticed TPI used Fram exclusively on his $50,000 motors. No matter what brand, I always look into the filter and check all of the visible areas - as well as the seal. I have never seen any difference between those or any other filter. I DO occasionally use Mobil-1 filters, as it feels good to run the same brand filter as the oil.
    Last edited by Beer:30; 02-22-2009 at 10:00 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

  12. #10
    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Doctor View Post
    Update!
    Rotella and Delo which both still contained zinc do not any more! Thank the Government for saving us from unseen pollution and devastating results to flat tappet cam power plants!

    There are excellent recommendations here but without zinc, kiss your cam and lifters good by like we did last month. Plan on spending a bunch on your future oil changes if you intend to maintain the proper protection - whether you use the aforementioned recommended aftermarket oils or an appropriate additive.

    On another note, Fram filters were my favorite but we've changed our minds on that as well. Honeywell purchased them and a very good friend from the corporate side of the company instructed us to never purchase their products again. Very good advice as I had an entire case of HP4 Racing BBC filters recalled. We sent them back and they replaced them with the new/improved ones. Last week we ran the alcohol dragster at and lost a filter seal on the burnout along with 1/2 quart of oil. Yes, this was from the replacement filters they sent me due to the old ones having faulty o-ring seals. The company just plain sucks.

    I followed a link to a guy who cut open a couple dozen same-application filters to compare their contents and he suggested WIX, NAPA and Super-tech (yes the cheap Wal-Mart ones) as the very best designed, built filters on the market today. His test also found Fram to be the worst for about three different reasons? Go figure!

    Damn, the government's member just keeps getting deeper between the cheeks...FYI, Wix makes all of NAPA's filters, go with the NAPA Gold's, FWIW Amsoil makes good filters too.

    GT
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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    Red Blooded American The Doctor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    Unless you have a roller cam. No zinc necessary.
    Not intending to correct you but I'm confident you mean WHEN you have roller cams, the zinc is not a necessity. I'll partially agree although piston skirts tend to appreciate the added zinc as well although it's really not necessary when you're not running a flat tappet cam/lifter system.

    In our alcohol power plants, it's an added measure of protection given the condensation that is so prevalent in our applications although some do and some don't. It's a downright necessity with flat tappets in my humble opinion however.
    The best things in life aren't things!

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Doctor View Post
    Not intending to correct you but I'm confident you mean WHEN you have roller cams, the zinc is not a necessity. I'll partially agree although piston skirts tend to appreciate the added zinc as well although it's really not necessary when you're not running a flat tappet cam/lifter system.

    In our alcohol power plants, it's an added measure of protection given the condensation that is so prevalent in our applications although some do and some don't. It's a downright necessity with flat tappets in my humble opinion however.
    I agree. I got to say "I told you so" TWICE to a guy that thought it was bull that the additives had been reduced/eliminated from oils. He said his favorite oil had not let him down and he was just going to use it straight in his brand new flat tappet motor for break in. Flat cam. Changed it out. I BOUGHT him a can of GM EOS, but he was stingy and said it was just a faulty cam. Wham, flat again. Third cam, threw in the EOS, all was good.

    Sure, the anti-scuff additives can be good for any metal-metal parts, although still not necessary today. All of the new components are built to handle the latest technology oils. New Vortec motors go through all kinds of abuse and don't seem to care which oil they have in them. Also, you will notice that most (if not all) owners manuals say "there is no specific break-in period for your motor". New pistons, rings, bearings, rollers, and cylinder wall finishes pretty much require no break-in. Yay-though I still think one should be slightly easier on their new motor until it has a few hours on it. But, I also believe one should drive a new motor like it is going to be driven - as the new parts should find their new home in real world situations.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    Hey guys some of this info is important, what you used even 10 years ago has totally changed and is no longer the same product.
    The Doctor is correct about the Fram filters, Honeywell took over the Fram line from Allied Signal. The filters are now overseas made, and very cheaply built using plastic bypass springs instead of steel and cardboard end caps on the filters instead of steel. It's really cheap stuff, cut one apart and see for yourself, even the HP series has gone to hell.
    The same goes for oil, the government has gotten so deep into this the old Shell Rotella that everyone endorsed and used for flat tappet cams will now flatten your cam as the cheap recycled oil sold at wal-mart.
    To get quality oil these days it needs to be”racing oil" even though you’re not racing it has the additive pack you need for your flat tappet cams.
    Which brings up another point, even if running a roller cam the distributor drive gears still need the zinc to live a long happy life particularly for the fords. Also as mentioned piston skirts don't mind the better oil too, as well as bearings etc...

    Not trying to correct or change anyone’s ways, to each there own and I respect that, just a little FYI for those that are interested.
    Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting"....holy shit.... what a ride!"

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    CODE8 code8's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for all the info. I am going to stick with the Royal Purple (Synthetic/ 5w-30w) with NO additives and a Pureolator oil filter.

    Also, this is a good resource/website since Hotboat went down. I appreciate all your knowledge and do's and don'ts.

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