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Got another question...electrical

  1. #1
    Senior Member back2k5's Avatar
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    Default Got another question...electrical

    I have an electronic valve to switch between the fuel tanks currently connected to one of these:
    (6 screw throw on-on)

    I need to make it work on one of these:


    and I dont know shit about electrical

    Any suggestions???? Thanks

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  3. #2
    RvRrat
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    the first switch is a DPDT, double pole double throw. center is common. the other switches are SPST, single throw single throw, but they look lighted. Center should be common, and they should be marked 12V, when the switch is on the light is on. Use center and one side or both and you should be good to go. That is assuming you only had 2 or 3 wires on the original switch. If it has 6 wires, no workey.

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Should be able to do that with a 2x throw 2x pole depending on if your wanting to control switching valve and guages at the same time

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  6. #4
    Senior Member back2k5's Avatar
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    I appologize...the picture of the lighted switch is one the only one I could find. The one Im actually using is that size with three prongs but no light (if that makes a difference). The one I bought was from rex was a fuel switch which had three prongs instead of the others I ordered from him which have two (pump and aux on-off)

  7. #5
    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    In order to do it that way you'll need two of those switches. The switch you currently have is basically two of those newer switches you now have in one switch.

    You need one switch to switch the valve and the other to switch the gauge over to each tank.



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    Senior Member Delemorte's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RvRrat View Post
    switch. If it has 6 wires, no workey.
    I have the exact same switch. and had a related question to wiring..

    I assume on one side of that first one is a ground and lead off of one of the tanks and then the same on the other side for the other tank. Then the center has a shared ground and lead to the actual gauge or device and to the ground. Is there an issue with running the grounds from the tank directly to a common ground and just running the leads to the toggle?

    sorry if my terminology is jacked. not a wizz at wiring yet.
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  9. #7
    two strokes is enough
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    just switched fuel tank selector switch in my boat

    for your gauge wire running from the gauge goes in the center of one of the two switches and your wire from your tanks goes on each side fo that same switch to make your gauge work.

    the selector in the boat could be a on/off or a on/on depends on how many wires you have going to your switch. the center pole is from power (battery) if you only have one wire you just connect to either side then figure out what tank it is pulling from. (i just went and ran a 1/4 tank out and had to switch the wire to the other pole to make it correct. if you have two wires from the selector hook them up on the same switch you have your power running into and then just figure out what tank they are pulling from when you take the boat out next

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    Back2k5, you got the engineer in me excited with this problem. You could use a SPDT switch work by using relays to do the actual switching. The switch on the panel would just tell the relays which circuits to connect. You would just need two 5-pin relays.

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    Senior Member back2k5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boatbroke View Post
    Back2k5, you got the engineer in me excited with this problem. You could use a SPDT switch work by using relays to do the actual switching. The switch on the panel would just tell the relays which circuits to connect. You would just need two 5-pin relays.
    You got the crappy student in me confused. Rex advised me that I could use a relay but I dont know much about them. I looked at some five pin relays but I dont know which one to get and how to wire it. Any advise from the engineer in you???

  12. #10
    RvRrat
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delemorte View Post
    I have the exact same switch. and had a related question to wiring..

    I assume on one side of that first one is a ground and lead off of one of the tanks and then the same on the other side for the other tank. Then the center has a shared ground and lead to the actual gauge or device and to the ground. Is there an issue with running the grounds from the tank directly to a common ground and just running the leads to the toggle?

    sorry if my terminology is jacked. not a wizz at wiring yet.
    just guessing here, but the dpst switch probably does 2 things. switches the tank solenoid valve between tanks, and switches the tank level sensor between 2 tanks. For the valve solenoid, more than likely the center on one side is +12V and the opposing terminals is the solenoid. The other half of the switch should have the gauge lead in the center, and the tank sensor leads on the opposing terminals. The grounds are probably taken care of outside the switches. BUT i could be wrong.
    Last edited by RvRrat; 02-25-2009 at 02:10 PM.

  13. #11
    RvRrat
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    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    You got the crappy student in me confused. Rex advised me that I could use a relay but I dont know much about them. I looked at some five pin relays but I dont know which one to get and how to wire it. Any advise from the engineer in you???
    you can use a single form c switch, but i'm pretty sure you would need 2 relays. switch center would be +12V, opposing terminals would be + coil on each relay, wire the other side of the coils to -12V. You would then need to wire up your solenoid and tanks to each relay contact as necessary.

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    You got the crappy student in me confused. Rex advised me that I could use a relay but I dont know much about them. I looked at some five pin relays but I dont know which one to get and how to wire it. Any advise from the engineer in you???
    I was wrong about the SPDT switch, it would need to be a SPST switch.

    With a SPST switch one pin would be +12 volt from your ignition switch. The other pin will be the signal to the relay.

    I tried attaching a picture to help you out, but couldn't get it to work. The link is there instead so you can see what I'm about to mumble about.

    I'll explain the process of wiring the fuel pump circuit. The wire coming from the switch will be "signal" to the relay's to switch one way or the other. Both relays should have 5 pins. Two pins (pins 1 and 2) are for the "signal" circuit. One will come from your switch on the dash and one will be a ground. Pin #4 will be your +12 volt supply from the battery. Pin #3 will be the +12 volts to one fuel pump and #5 to the other.

    The relay when energized will default to one position. This means that one fuel tank will be the default tank when the relay is not getting +12 volts from the switch (switch turned off). When the switch is flipped to the other position, the relay will recieve +12 volts from the switch and switch to the other tank.

    The relay for the sending units will work similar to the fuel pump wiring except Pin #4 will be to the fuel gauge and Pins #3 and #5 will be to the sending units.

    All in all, the switch will need one +12 volts supply to one pin and the other pin will be connected to the #4 pin on both relays.

    If this is too difficult to understand, call me 832-286-2930

    Check out page 8. The 5-Pin relay is on the right.
    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf
    Last edited by boatbroke; 02-25-2009 at 06:01 PM. Reason: Attachment didn't work

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    Senior Member moneysucker's Avatar
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    Maybe Rex1 will chime in and either answer the question at hand or tell you wha relay to use and have a wiring diagram.

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  16. #14
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    Default Wiring Diagram

    Here is what I came up with.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Fuel Relay Wiring.jpg 
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    Last edited by boatbroke; 02-26-2009 at 06:32 AM. Reason: Didn't know how to attach a *.PDF

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