Drilling the dash for a new gauge
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Drilling the dash for a new gauge

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    Half a bubble off jrork's Avatar
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    Default Drilling the dash for a new gauge

    Hey guys,
    I just picked up a electric fuel pressure gauge and want to drill one more hole in the dash for it. It's a 2 1/16" gauge.

    What has been your experiance with hole saws? Can I get away with a 2 1/16" saw or should I go with a 2" saw and then just slowly open it up with my dremel??? Needless to say I'm also concerned with chipping of the paint.

    Thanks guys........john

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    John buy a good H/S we use Makita or Dewalt ,make sure the hole pilot is out sufficiantly from the end of the saw barrell and put some duct tape on the dash first the plot your guage position , nothing worse than having a hole saw "walk" across the paint Tom

    (carefull pulling the tape loose)

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    Half a bubble off jrork's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    John buy a good H/S we use Makita or Dewalt ,make sure the hole pilot is out sufficiantly from the end of the saw barrell and put some duct tape on the dash first the plot your guage position , nothing worse than having a hole saw "walk" across the paint Tom

    (carefull pulling the tape loose)
    Thanks ol wise one, I have both dewalt and Milwaukee but like you said, was VERY concerned with doing the "walk". So drill to size and let er eat?

    Thanks for the tip with the duct tape too...

    ps....snowing again....summer is never gonna get here soon enough

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    Cas
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    I use an adjustable dial. I also drill a pilot hole before drilling to eliminate the walk. With painted surfaces, I always draw the circle in pencil and then use a utility knife to cut through the paint. It's a sure way to cut down any chipping that may occur.


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    I occasionaly drill hole saw bits through carpet, I start in reverse rotation to get through the carpet so the carpet isn't snagged. That's how I'm going to drill through my dash after it's been painted, starting in reverse rotation. If it won't snag carpet it's not going to phuk up my paint.

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    Half a bubble off jrork's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I'm gonna give it a try in a bit. Gotta shovel some f'n snow again though first. Wish me luck

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    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod56cars View Post
    I occasionaly drill hole saw bits through carpet, I start in reverse rotation to get through the carpet so the carpet isn't snagged. That's how I'm going to drill through my dash after it's been painted, starting in reverse rotation. If it won't snag carpet it's not going to phuk up my paint.
    Yep, Start in reverse and it won't chip.

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    "Try it Now!" Tahiti Boss21's Avatar
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    I remember someone on the boards here one time say they mask it off with tape, then use a hole saw in reverse....slow but clean..now please don't do this until you confirm that it actually works! haha. sounded pretty slick to me.
    1992 Eliminator Daytona 21'

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    Senior Member Luckie Stiff's Avatar
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    Don't use duct tape, use good painter's masking tape, I've drilled probably 1000 fiberglass tub/shower setups and never chipped any. Masking tape, slight steady pressure (let the drill motor and hole saw do the work) and you'll be fine.
    "Don't you realize that there are already enough people in the world to hate without you putting in so much effort to give me another?"

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    So stinking easy!!! Thanks for the call Skip and the advice guys.
    Bought a 2" RIGID and just as Skip described, the 2 1/16" gauge slips in with a slight touch up of a rotary rasp. The tape and running it backwards for a second kept it from chipping the paint too.

    Next I'll be attempting Brain Surgery..,nuthin to it!!!!

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    Jackwagon Patrolman Rexone's Avatar
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    I too like the masking tape over duct tape as the duct tape is pretty sticky and thick, I have used both though with success. Reverse is good to get through the paint or gelcoat then go in forward. When about 3/4 the way through with the saw I go to the back side to complete the cut. That way there is no splintering or rough edge on break through. Also use a sharp hole saw but start with gentle, even, and straight pressure preferably with a variable speed drill so you can start out slow and avoid the saw teeth from digging in too much initially.

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