oil gallery plugs
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oil gallery plugs

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    Default oil gallery plugs

    The oil gallery plugs behind my timing cover do not fit very good they stick out about 1/8" from the block. Is this common or should they sit flush? Also what type of sealant do I use on these?

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dremmick View Post
    The oil gallery plugs behind my timing cover do not fit very good they stick out about 1/8" from the block. Is this common or should they sit flush? Also what type of sealant do I use on these?
    What motor ?

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    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dremmick View Post
    The oil gallery plugs behind my timing cover do not fit very good they stick out about 1/8" from the block. Is this common or should they sit flush? Also what type of sealant do I use on these?
    It's very common for pipe plugs to not fit flush. Also, if we are talking Chevrolet, it's usually advisable to have tiny oiling holes drilled in them for the cam gear and timing chain. I use a .040" drill.

    A good pipe thread sealer works fine, I use Rector Seal that you can buy from the hardware store, but you can also use ARP or other brands. No need to get too crazy tightening them since you may want to be able to remove them someday without drilling them out.

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    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    most important that they are in far enough to clear the timing set. Dart big m blocks are notorious for needing to be tapped deeper to clear.

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    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetjunky View Post
    most important that they are in far enough to clear the timing set. Dart big m blocks are notorious for needing to be tapped deeper to clear.
    Where did you hear that? I have done numerous Dart block engines without issues. Maybe someone had some long plugs.

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    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    when mike johnson, the genius at jms racing engines, built my big M 540 originally he didn't bother to verify the clearance and the timing gear and galley plugs had wear marks. After some research I learned it was a common occurrence back then that the holes needed to be tapped deeper. After about 6 hrs. of use I discovered bronze material on top of the heads and then realized the guides were being pulled up out of the heads due to his shit valve train geometery. During tear down several additional problems were discovered such as the oil pump body was broke at the dowel pin due to someone mushrooming the pin and forcing the pump body down over it, the hold down bolt was finger tight. But hey, at least I caught it before three wrist pins stuck completely. They wouldn't have made it one more hour. There's always a silver lining somewhere. My bad, Live and learn.

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    It is a chevy 454 and the holes are already drilled in the plugs for the timing chain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by obnoxious001 View Post
    It's very common for pipe plugs to not fit flush. Also, if we are talking Chevrolet, it's usually advisable to have tiny oiling holes drilled in them for the cam gear and timing chain. I use a .040" drill.

    A good pipe thread sealer works fine, I use Rector Seal that you can buy from the hardware store, but you can also use ARP or other brands. No need to get too crazy tightening them since you may want to be able to remove them someday without drilling them out.
    Good information!

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    Senior Member tigertooth's Avatar
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    Good info jet junky. If your genious motor builder would have read the Dart spec sheet that came with the block he would have seen that he had to drill the alignment holes out in the oil pump to .500 insteead of .470 which is stock chevy big block.

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    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    why would he need to read when, as he stated while showing me around the shop (that his daddy built). he was repairing motors built by Lew Larson and Phaff just to name a few. He must know it ALL if he's doing that. I wonder what the mushroomed dimension was? ,530", .575" who knows. When I saw that on disassembly I couldn't believe my eyes. It was clear then that this wasn't a mistake that could happen during a build, this was just gross negligence. Whomever did it must of heard the snap and certainly felt it/saw it move and just said fuckit not my problem. In retrospect, for more reasons than just bad motor work, it's crystal clear what a complete piece of shit mike johnson really is. Sorry to the OP. I'm done.

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