Regulating Water - Pump To Engine
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Regulating Water - Pump To Engine

  1. #1
    LP-25.com Infomaniac's Avatar
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    Default Regulating Water - Pump To Engine

    So why not just drill and tap the outlet inside the pump and install a drilled plug? Same as an engine bock restricting flow to the top end.

    No valves pressure relief etc.

    What is the chance of building any heat anyway? We will be running alcohol carbs.

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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    I think the pressure will still increase with RPMs. if you do it that way. You have the right idea though, just add the "drilled plug" or a sleeve to the outlet side to achieve the preferred block pressure @ WOT.

    I use a regulator and thats it. No ball valves or gate valves in my boat.
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brendellajet View Post
    I think the pressure will still increase with RPMs. if you do it that way. You have the right idea though, just add the "drilled plug" or a sleeve to the outlet side to achieve the preferred block pressure @ WOT.

    I use a regulator and thats it. No ball valves or gate valves in my boat.
    i agree, there's always gonna be a point where the block fills to capacity and builds pressure behind it, best thing is just a good ole bypass.hass found someone who built them outta alum and its alot lighter , if you're worried about every lb.

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    Member Schiada21's Avatar
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    Default Water By-pass Kit

    HTP might be able to help ...

    http://www.hi-techperformance.com/HPParts.HTM
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    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schiada20 View Post
    my way costs 30-40 bucks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    So why not just drill and tap the outlet inside the pump and install a drilled plug? Same as an engine bock restricting flow to the top end.

    No valves pressure relief etc.

    What is the chance of building any heat anyway? We will be running alcohol carbs.
    This is basically how my Taylor came stock.

    A fixed orofice of some sort was in teh inlet line, about midpoint under teh engine.

    Dad didn't like it getting to 185-190F at extended idle, and cut it out, spliced the hose with copper pipe inside (as a nipple), and put a valve on the inlet pipe.

    It ran 150-160 cruising originally.

    Dad's adjustments brought it to 140/170 and also prevented ever blowing the inlet hose off (again).
    That nearly sunk her once.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
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    Sit N' Spin Jetaholic's Avatar
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    Even with the regulator setup it is wise to have a gate or ball valve plumbed into the system. Normally you'd run it full open, but in the event you blow a hose you'll have a way to shut the water off.



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    Senior Member DuaneHTP's Avatar
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    The kit impatient shows will work fine on most lake boats. But, don't try it if you have much HP. The 1/2" valve, plumbing, and fittings will restrict the flow of high HP applications and you can still have too much block pressure at WOT. The most important issue is to use a 3/4" bypass valve with no smaller than a 3/4" overboard hose and 3/4" water outlet.

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    Senior Member Fonz69's Avatar
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    Listen to the man, I had the Hi-Tech setup on my 21 Daytona and it worked great

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    LP-25.com Infomaniac's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input If the restriction is before the engine and the outlet is much larger than the restriction.

    I don't see how the pressure would spike. It would limit the flow.

    But would be absloutely unmeterable.

    A valve somewhere will be needed just for the heck of it.

  13. #11
    jetboataholic HawaiianJet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    Thanks for all the input If the restriction is before the engine and the outlet is much larger than the restriction.

    I don't see how the pressure would spike. It would limit the flow.

    But would be absloutely unmeterable.

    A valve somewhere will be needed just for the heck of it.
    I've always heard that when you restrict flow, you increase pressure. But, i don't know.

    Just put a pressure regulator on there and don't worry about it. Set it and forget about it.
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    Senior Member hotkona's Avatar
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    A restriction doesn't block pressure, it blocks flow. You would still have the high pressure and not as much water flow going into your block. Run a pressure regulator and AN lines and fittings and no worries!
    In thrust, we trust

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    Quote Originally Posted by hotkona View Post
    A restriction doesn't block pressure, it blocks flow. You would still have the high pressure and not as much water flow going into your block. Run a pressure regulator and AN lines and fittings and no worries!
    Ah, no.

    If the outlet volume capacity is larger than the inlet volume capacity, you will have no prewssure build up, even if the water passing thru the restrictor is doing so at many hundreds of psi.

    Pressure only exists BEFORE a restriction to flow, not after a restriction. Basic fluid dynamics & hydraulics.

    If the inlet line feeding a chamber (such as an engine block) is pushing a fluid (water) @ 500psi, thru a 3/8" opening, and the outlet of the chamber is 3/4" there will be virtually NO pressure maintained in the chamber.

    The volume will run out faster than the volume is permitted in.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
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    The rest of us are being dragged along kicking and screaming.

  16. #14
    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmokinLowriderSS View Post
    Ah, no.

    If the outlet volume capacity is larger than the inlet volume capacity, you will have no prewssure build up, even if the water passing thru the restrictor is doing so at many hundreds of psi.
    Then why when I have a -10 line going in the motor, with 2 -8 lines going out, am I building 23psi @ WOT?
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

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