Lubing your Cables
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Lubing your Cables

  1. #1
    bac
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    Default Lubing your Cables

    Here is some information about steering Cables. I purchased a Tahiti Super Cruiser and the steering wheel was extremely difficult to turn. Hulk Hogan would of had fun with it. I asked several bloggers about fixing it and everone said you need a new one, thinking of all the head ache on routing and cost of replacing $$$. Back in my day of racing bikes we lubed the cables. I built a hose and put it over the disconnected cable from my drive and pumped liquid wrench into the cable slowly.
    My son helped turn the steering wheel and I finally saw liquid wrench coming out of the steering box. Man the wheel is free.
    Just today I found this on a web site it might be helpful to someone else.

    Here is to easy steering.


    Cable Buddy™ Steering Cable Lubrication System

    Item#AvailabilityOverton's Price26063In Stock$29.99Quantity
    Product Rating

    4 stars
    (1 Rating)

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    Great for inboards, outboards, and I/Os, Cable Buddy™ lubricates and virtually eliminates wear in the inner cable. Easy to install, this complete system includes stainless-steel nut with plug and sealing washer, oiling tube assembly, and Max-Lube™. Shipped ground only.
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    Max-Lube, 3 fl. oz.
    $7.99
    QTY

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    Avg. Customer Rating:
    4 stars
    (based on 1 review)

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Delemorte's Avatar
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    Default

    not saying thats not a good idea. Just curious how it hooks up to my jet steering...
    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    the ensueing fire would likely be extinguished by the sinking however

  4. #3
    bac
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    Disconnect the arm to the drive and slide about a 1 foot hose over the arm and reduce with a nipple and add a hand pump with liquid wrench.

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  6. #4
    bac
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    Quote Originally Posted by bac View Post
    Disconnect the arm to the drive and slide about a 1 foot hose over the arm and reduce with a nipple and add a hand pump with liquid wrench.
    http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...readAllReviews

  7. #5
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    i used to be all for lubing cables, have my own easy method that costs less than 5 bucks to make. then i had 1 break on me over 80mph, and from then on i've become a firm believer in replacing a stiff cable. stiffness indicates rust or fraying of the cable or casing, which eventually leads to a cable break. its no fun when it happens to you! most of us can blow 120bucks in a weekend easily on fuel, why not stay home 1 weekend and make the boat safer just sayinnnnnnn

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

  8. #6
    Cas
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    sound advice!
    What I've done in the past is to disconnect the steering cable from the pump then attach a funnel or a 1 liter plastic sida bottle with the bottom cut out. Raise the cable up 6 or 8 ft and fill the container with tranny fluid and let it seep in over a day or 2 along with turning the wheel now and again.
    It's worked great on quite a few cables but the cable will need replacing within a year or so.
    It's best to do this every couple of years to keep the cable well lubed so it will last much longer.

  9. #7
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    i don't condone it but here's my method:

    get 3ft of 5/8ths heater hose, slide it over the end of the cable at the pump(disconnected of course), use a hose clamp and clamp the hose down tight on the cable collar, fill the open end of the heater hose with yo fav lubricant, put a air chuck fitting in the end and clamp it down. now regulate the shop air pressure down to say 10psi, plug up the air fitting and elavate the end so the oil is at the bottom. the air will push the lube up into the cable quik, as soon as you hear air come out the other end, disconnect shop air. whallla lubed cable(and a call to get a new cable on the way is the next step)

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

  10. #8
    "Try it Now!" Tahiti Boss21's Avatar
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    bac, my tahiti cruiser used to go through cables too. It's not always the lube that'st he problem, sometimes it gets permanent kinks and bends in it from sitting, so you have to force that bend through the rubber. Mine had a problem right to the left of the rack where it makes thehard turn, so i bought a new rack and flipped it over. Now it has a nice smooth bend, and runs straight to the pump under the interior, around the passenger side. Plus, I was able to use a cable several feet shorter. Now it turns with a finger for about six years now. Hope this helps! ( you may have to drill one exta hole under the steering hub int he dash if i remember correctly?)
    1992 Eliminator Daytona 21'

  11. #9
    bac
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    Thanks for the help this boat has been sitting for a while and I didn't want to buy new yet. Do you remember the length? What size is your gas tanks? I have two thirties. Also do they make another mount to put the jetinator on up by the forward and reverse lever?


  12. #10
    "Try it Now!" Tahiti Boss21's Avatar
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    I want to say they're two 20 gallon tanks, but have never really checked to make sure. There is plenty of room on mine to run the cable over the tanks, under the top half of the hull. SHow some pics of that rig, i'm not familiar to what that model looks like!. As for the jet0vator mount, i'm assuming you have a manual lever? I can't answer that, i have a hyd. one, and the buttons on the wheel.
    1992 Eliminator Daytona 21'

  13. #11
    bac
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    Yes mine is manual, not as nice but was hoping to have another option to put another lever on the forward and reverse lever. I will take some pics when the weather is brighter, rain, rain, in Oregon right know.

  14. #12
    bac
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    by the way, my engine deck looks like yours from the picture.
    Brian

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