How many Pounds of torque for my bassetts?
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How many Pounds of torque for my bassetts?

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    Senior Member back2k5's Avatar
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    Default How many Pounds of torque for my bassetts?

    Im looking to install my bassett twisties tomorrow and I dont know how much to torque them...Anybody??? Also any other install tips will be appreciated as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Im looking to install my bassett twisties tomorrow and I dont know how much to torque them...Anybody??? Also any other install tips will be appreciated as well.
    According to my spec book, exhaust manifold bolts/studs get torqued to 26 ft. lbs. I've always run them down, taken the boat out and run it for a while and get some heat in them, and then run them down again and forget about it.

    This is straight from Bassett's site:

    My Exhaust Keeps Blowing Gaskets, Even The Expensive Gaskets
    Make sure that the motor is not running lean. Check the carbs at the primaries and secondaries. Bolts may be vibrating loose. Bassett offers tall lock washers to help prevent this. Putting a thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket will help. After installing header, tighten to where the RTV is just oozing out, then wait 12 hours and then torque down. Usual amount is 25 pounds. Now you have a silicone rubber gasket.

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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Aluminum, or iron heads?? I don't know the exact answer, but if there aluminum, I'd be a little careful. Btw exhaust studs are your friend.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    About 500' AGL MudPumper's Avatar
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    Anti-Sieze is your friend.

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    ptz
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    copper or fiber gaskets ?
    monkey love

    "why is my stuff shit... and your shit stuff ?"

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    Default Loctite

    Quote Originally Posted by MudPumper View Post
    Anti-Sieze is your friend.
    For Aluminum heads, yes....For cast iron heads use loctite. I don't have a chart in front of me, but the standard torque for a 3/8ths course threaded bolt is what you're looking for. An automotive torque spec would be for hardened exhaust bolts, factory types.....I usually use studs in both end bolt holes to support the header while I slide the gasket in from the top, and line up the bolts........Even loctited exhaust will eventually vibrate loose, so check them frequently. You may need to repeat this sequence a few times due to gasket squeeze. Once everything settles down, re loctite one at a time and you should be good to go.....Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudPumper View Post
    Anti-Sieze is your friend.
    I run studs in every bolt hole (which makes installing and removing my Lightnings interesting because of how close 2 tubes fit to the studs) and reduced head self-locking (crimped metal, not nylocks) Milspec locknuts MS-21042-6's).
    The studs are fine-thread, to match the locknuts.
    The studs are locktited to the heads (#271 Stud & Bearing Locker) and anti-sieze on the outer threads under the nuts (Locktite's copper-ladden stuff). I do use lockwashers, but more for bearing surface as the locking properties are un-needed now.

    I ran a 1/8" bead of Hi-temp RTV on each weld on the header flange plate, let sit 24 hours, and installed, 3 years ago. Never touched since.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
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    Senior Member Constant840's Avatar
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    I went the RTV route for many years. Though it will definitely work, it is just a mess and not fun to clean off when the time comes.
    I'm with Jordy on this. Install, heat 'em up, tighten again.
    No paper gaskets and like stated above some sort of lubrication on the bolts is always a good idea.

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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Constant840 View Post
    I went the RTV route for many years. Though it will definitely work, it is just a mess and not fun to clean off when the time comes.
    I'm with Jordy on this. Install, heat 'em up, tighten again.
    No paper gaskets and like stated above some sort of lubrication on the bolts is always a good idea.
    Thus the reason I fully cured mine and installed them the next day (or maybe it was yet the day after THAT, don't recall exactly). I basically sealed mine shut with high-heat Silicone O-rings, which are not "gluing" my headers to the heads.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
    H.L. Mencken

    OBAMA: Some people deserve this.
    The rest of us are being dragged along kicking and screaming.

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